• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2023

This study aimed to create globally acceptable Hanbok-inspired work uniforms, by developing practical designs and providing useful resources for incorporating Hanbok characteristics into office attire. First, to establish the elements that the Hanbok work uniform should have, the definition and characteristics of service clothes and preferences for the process of modernization of traditional Hanbok were reviewed through a review of the preceding studies. For the Hanbok work uniform design, a total of 4 pieces, 2 for each male and female, were planned, a schematic diagram was created, and the design was modified after evaluation by fashion design experts. I made a pattern of the modified design with a CAD program, imported it into CLO 3D to produce a virtual costume, and confirmed the final design draft. Work uniform design has symbolism, functionality, and aesthetics as its characteristics. The functionality of the Hanbok work uniform designed in this study is suitable for the season, and it was designed to increase the efficiency of work when worn for a long time. The design was focused on the development of materials and patterns in consideration of comfort and activity. The esthetic nature of hanbok-inspired work clothes was intended to reveal details that could highlight the silhouette of the human body and reflect the beauty of hanbok.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2021

Virtual reality is currently mainly used in games, but is starting to be applied as a variety of media fields, such as broadcasting and film. Virtual reality provides more fun than reality, and can provide new experiences in areas that cannot be experienced in reality due to the constraints of time, space, and environment. In particular, as the social non-contact arena has increased due to COVID-19, it is being applied to education, health, and medical industries. The contents are further expanding into design and military fields. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to observe the change in distribution of load and pressure felt by the body in the flying state while wearing a short pants harness, which are mainly used in the game and entertainment industry. In the experiment, the average pressure in the flying state was measured by attaching a pressure sensor to the back and front of a human mannequin. As a result, it was confirmed that the load concentrated on the waist in the flying state was 44 N, with a pressure of 1353 kPa. The pressure distribution was concentrated in front of the center of gravity, and was measured was at 98% by the pressure sensors, with an average pressure value of approximately 15 kPa, and a pressure value of approximately 12 kPa at the back, which was measured at 67% by the pressure sensor. The results of the load and pressure distribution measurement are presented as fundamental data to improve the wearability and comfort of harnesses in the future, and are compared to actual measured pressure values by analyzing the clothing pressure in flight through virtual wear of harnesses through the CLO 3D program.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.904-921
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.191-203
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• 2016

The 3D virtual fitting system is a new and very efficient system replacing real fitting in apparel industry and on-line shopping. It is a win-win system for both of consumer and manufacturer which not only reduces design and production time but also resolves consumer's complaints by checking the wearing image beforehand. It is a must-have item in the future. The purpose of this study is to analyze sizing menu, terms, and current status and to figure out problems of avatar sizing programs which substitute human bodies in virtual fitting. We chose three existing outstanding programs in domestic and global market, compared and analyzed the program, manual, and terms that are used in avatar sizing, and investigated the strengths, weaknesses, problems of options and terms and finally suggested an alternative terms. The revealed problems are as follows: each program supports various avatars ranging from male to female, from child to adult, and from oriental style to western style. The image of the avatar could be changed through the options for hair style, shoes and accessories. But we found out some problems. The avatar body types are far from actual human body types, avatar sizing menus and item terms are different from program to program, and terms not yet standardized. Cooperative efforts of industry and academy on standardization of sizing menus and terms should be emphasized for the virtual fitting system to be widely used like the other computer graphic programs or word editors.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.145-154
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• 2015

This study aims to identify the differences of body image when the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt. The semi-tight skirt pattern was made using the standard size of a women in their 20s. 12 semi-tight skirt models combining 6 kinds of stripe directions and 2 kinds of stripe widths were made using CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The data was evaluated by 126 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; In accordance with the body image factor analysis of semi-tight skirt, three image factors were identified; whole body optical illusion, calf optical illusion and hip optical illusion. Among these factors, the whole body optical illusion factor is the most important factor. The body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt mostly showed the significant difference. In accordance with the analysis on the interaction effect of body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt, the whole body, calf and hip optical illusion factors showed the significance. The interaction of body image had independent influence on all factors of stripe direction and width. In particular, the interaction of stripe direction and width had the most significant influence on the whole body optical illusion.