• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제49권2호
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• pp.107-116
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• 2023

In this study, to explore the possibility of using discarded by-products of corn as a wrinkle-improving functional material, the active ingredient contained in each part including kernel, cob, husk, and silk of 10 varieties of chodang and waxy corn was identified and the content was analyzed to suggest the possibility of corn by-products as upcycling materials. As a result of evaluating the collagen synthesis efficacy of extracts by part, the cob in chodang and waxy corns showed significant activity at 100 ㎍/mL concentration of 176.5 and 140.0%, respectively. The LC-MS/MS qualitative analysis resulted in the identification of 18 components in the cob, of which N, N'-diferuloylputrescine (DFP) was selected as an active ingredient, and the quantitative analysis was conducted by variety and part. As a result, DFP was confirmed only in the cob and kernel, and it was most frequently detected in the cob of the Goldsugar of chodang corn (39.6 ㎍/g) and Daehakchal of waxy corn (38.4 ㎍/g). The cob is a by-product left over from grain removal, and is expected to create new added value as a material that promotes collagen synthesis. Through this study, we propose the possibility of using discarded cob as a wrinkle-improving functional material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제49권2호
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• pp.127-139
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• 2023

In this study, minoxidil, which is well known as a pharmaceutical raw material, and diaminopyrimidine oxide (DAO), which is a cosmetic raw material, were used as active ingredients to evaluate the physical properties of niosomes and compare the skin penetrations of artificial skin. To prepare niosomes of the size of nanoparticles, a high pressure homogenization method was used, and physical properties were evaluated with a zetasizer. The particle size of the noisome including the active ingredient was measured to be 99 to 123 nm according to HLB, and the zeta potential was measured in the range of -60 to -81 mV. Through DSC (differential scanning colorimetry), it was confirmed that minoxidil, a crystalline component, was uniformly dissolved in an amorphous state in niosomes. In order to confirm and compare skin penetration, it was measured by the in vitro Franz diffusion cell method, and the niosome formulation showed 3.4 times higher penetration for minoxidil and 11.1 times higher penetration for DAO than the control gel formulation. In addition, when comparing the skin penetration of minoxidil niosome and DAO niosome, a similar trend was shown, and the penetration amount of DAO was relatively high. The shapes of the niosome formulations with different HLB values were observed using Cryo-TEM, and it was confirmed that vesicles were formed in all of them and that they were intermediate between SUV (small unilamella vesicle) and LUV (large unilamella vesicle). Through this study, minoxidil, an effective drug for hair loss, and DAO, a cosmetic raw material, can be effectively delivered to the skin by encapsulating them in a noisome formulation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.207-218
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• 2020

In this study, the anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial activities of the extracts from the leaves of the Hydrangea petiolaris were identified, and the chemical structure was identified by separating the active ingredient. As the result of the anti-inflammatory activity experiment using RAW 264.7 cells, it was confirmed that the n-hexane (Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions inhibited the production of nitric oxide (NO) and the expression of iNOS protein in a concentration-dependent manner without cytotoxicity. In addition, the n-Hex and EtOAc fractions reduced the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6). Upon the anti-bacterial tests using Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes, the extract, n-Hex, EtOAc and n-butanol (BuOH) fractions showed potent activities. In order to isolate the active constituents, the n-Hex and EtOAc fractions were further purified to afford four phytochemicals; phytol (1), corosolic acid (2), asiatic acid (3) and 1-O-p-coumaroyl-β-D-glucopyranoside (4). All of the compounds 1 - 4 were isolated for the first time from this plant. In addition, the contents of isolated compounds were determined by HPLC and the quantity of phytol (1) was 27.8 mg/g for the 70% EtOH extract. Based on the above research results, it is believed that it will be possible to develop a natural cosmetic material that has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects using the extract of H. petiolaris leaves.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.49-56
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• 2019

Pueraria thomsonii Benth. as a medicinal ingredient, has been traditionally used in Chinese medicine to treat fever, acute dysentery, diarrhea, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease. The effects of P. thomsonii flower on skin have not been reported yet. In this study, the whitening effect of P. thomsonii flower was verified using B16F1 melanoma cells and HS68 fibroblasts. P. thomsonii flower extract reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. To identify its active components, we analyzed P. thomsonii flower extract using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). As a result, we identified three major isoflavones of tectorigenin, tectoridin, and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, the three components also reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. The depigmentation effects were attributed to the reduced gene expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In order to elucidate another depigmentation mechanism, their effects on DKK-1, a fibroblast-derived depigmentation factor, was determined in HS68 cells. As a result, P. thomsonii flower extracts, tectoridin and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside, reduced DKK-1 gene expression, while tectorigenin increased DKK-1 gene expression in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that tectorigenin can be used as an effective whitening agent that inhibit melanin synthesis in melanocytes and promote the secretion of depigmentation factor from fibroblasts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• 제36권6호
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• pp.705-711
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• 2012

In this study, the elastic liposome consisted of egg phospholipids and edge activator ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) was prepared in order to supplement the defect of the conventional liposome. We prepared elastic liposome containing quercetin, known as natural antioxidant, and evaluated the vesicles size, elasticity, loading efficiency, stability, and in vitro skin permeation. The mean diameter of quercetin loaded elastic liposome formulations ranged between 208.2~303.4 nm and loading efficiency was observed 64.1~87.5%. The highest loading efficiency (87.5%) and deformability (28.3) were observed at the optimal ratio of 90 : 10 (egg phospholipids : $Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) among 0.1% quercetin loaded elastic liposome formulations. The elastic liposome formulation was selected for further transdermal permeation study. The elastic liposome ($129.9{\mu}g/cm^2$) exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome ($114.8{\mu}g/cm^2$) and 1,3-butylene glycol ($75.1{\mu}g/cm^2$) solution. This results suggest that the elastic liposome formulation using $Tego^{(R)}$ care 450 as a major edge activator could be useful for the delivery of active ingredient through the skin transdermal.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.687-692
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• 2012

Schizandra chinensis extract has been known to possess a variety of efficacy including antitumor. However, it remains unclear how schizandrin, which is a major biological active ingredient of Schizandra chinensis, exerts antitumor effect. This study was designed to investigate the mechanism by which schizandrin inhibits tumor growth and metastasis. In in vivo test using tumor model mice injected with B16BL6 cell line, mice treated with 10 and 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ schizandrin showed a significant inhibition by $73.79{\pm}6.43%$ and $90.46{\pm}1.72%$, respectively, compared with positive tumor controls. Schizandrin did not exert a significant toxicity for the normal cells (HUVECs) and tumor cell lines (A549, B16BL6, Du145, Huh7). Treatment with schizandrin at 10 and 100 ${\mu}g$/head significantly inhibited the tumor-induced angiogenesis by $68.04{\pm}32.21%$ and $103.8{\pm}34.99%$ compared with the positive control group, respectively. Using in vivo lung metastasis model, tumor metastasis assay revealed that 10 and 100 ${\mu}g$/head schizandrin significantly decreased the metastatic lung tumor by $37.51{\pm}8.15%$ and $75.53{\pm}4.38%$ compared with positive controls, respectively. On the other hand, schizandrin did not affect the adherence of B16BL6 cell line to extracellular matrix protein. These results demonstrate that schizandrin exerts inhibitory effect on tumor growth and metastasis by inhibiting angiogenesis. This study thus suggest that schizandrin may be a candidate molecule target for cancer drug development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.309-315
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• 2009

In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The $SC_{50}$ values of compounds 2 ~ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$ and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ~ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with $IC_{50}$ values of $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$ and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an $IC_{50}$ value of $492.8\;{\mu}M$. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.141-146
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• 2005

Unstable cosmetic active ingredients could rapidly break down in chemical and photochemical process. Therefore, it has become a very important issue to encapsulate active ingredient for the stabilization. 7-Dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC), a precursor of vitamin $D_3$, has been shown to increase levels of protein and mRNA for heat shock protein in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. However, topical dermal application of 7-DHC is restricted due to its poor solubility and chemical unstability. In this study, 7-DHC was incorporated into nano-emulsion (NE), solid lipid nano-particle (SLN), and chitosan coated solid lipid nano-particle (CASLN), respectively. In order to prepare NE and SLN dispersion, high-pressure homogenization at temperature above the melting point of lipid was used Hydrogenated lecithin and polysorbate 60 were used as stabilizer for NE and SLN. CASLN was prepared by high speed homogenizing after adding chitosan solution to the SLN dispersion and showed positively charged particle properties. Decomposition rate of 7-DHC in NE, SLN and CASLN was studied as a function of time at different temperature. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) studies were performed to characterize state of lipid modification. It appeared that CASLN is the most effective to stabilize 7-DHC and may be used for a useful topical dermal delivery system.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.745-754
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to evaluate and verify the effectiveness of sustainable cosmetic raw materials developed from Gynostemma pentaphyllum, a plant native to Ulleungdo, in improving the skin barrier function and treating atopic dermatitis. Cells were derived from adult Gynostemma pentaphyllum plants, and suitable conditions for mass culture of the cells were established in a bioreactor. DNA components and amino acids extracted from this mass culture were identified from the HPLC fraction. In the in vitro efficacy evaluation results, changes in the expression levels of skin barrier-related proteins such as filaggrin (FLG) and Zonula occludens-1 (Zo-1) were insignificant. It was confirmed that the expression levels of the proteins thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) and interleukin-33 (IL-33) were significantly reduced. These results lead to the conclusion that Gynostemma pentaphyllum cell extracts have significant anti-inflammatory effects and that these extracts can be widely used as sustainable, nature-friendly active material in cosmetics with anti-inflammatory effects and targeted at improving atopic dermatitis.They may find use in anti-aging cosmetic products as well.