• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

This study is a discussion of the expressive characteristics of contemporary fashion design with floral images. It aims to help understand the overall trends of contemporary fashion design and textile motif design and expand the potential expression fields of originative design to natural objects such as flowers. Methodologically the study analyzed 976 pieces of data gathered from Haute Couture and Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-Porter collections of 2005S/S-2009F/W, according to their types of expression. The study results show a share of 42.7% for plane type expressions by printing or weaving and a share of 51.5% for relief type expressions, compared with 5.7% for solid type expressions. However, those expressions represented elegant femininity with emphasis on formative beauty and were applied to fashion accessories or hair adornments. The expressive characteristics found from the analysis were represented by natural images, feminine elegance, and decorative aesthetics of handicrafts. Flowers in the contemporary fashion purify the internal emotions of humankind stand for personality and beauty in many different ways of expression and serve as a means of expressing more artistic values breaking out of stereotype.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.125-143
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• 2013

This study aims to clarify the identity of contemporary Chinese fashion design by examining how the characteristics of Chinese tradition are accepted and presented in fashion under the influences of western cultures. This study performed a literature survey on related works. Also this study performed demonstrative analysis of Chinese daily newspapers (People's Daily and Xinmin Evening News, 2007-2010) and fashion collections by Chinese and Chinese descent designers(2007-2011). The results are as follows: First, China is trying to express Chinese traditional ideas and factors in the design areas, and also trying to achieve an universal generalization. Second, the Chinese designers emphasized traditional ideas and culture in their designs. The Chinese descent designers were affected more by western culture. The common aesthetic consciousness were the beauties of sophisticated and splendorous decoration, vastness and elegance. Also the compromised images, neutral images and antique images were common in both groups. Third, the Chinese designers presented fashion designs on formalized and imitation stage. Also they tried to make a metaphorical stage. The Chinese descent designers showed designs on a metaphorical stage. In conclusion, the contemporary Chinese fashion design should find the way to globalize and identity of the traditional culture code simultaneously.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.582-598
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• 2019

Intermedia is a term that refers to the convergence of different media. It has not only enabled the delivery of brand message but also developed interactive communication in a contemporary fashion show context. This study investigates the presentation methods of contemporary fashion shows affected by intermedia. We examined the research and theory related to intermedia and fashion shows by accessing articles since the 2000s concerning 252 shows by 30 designers that tended to demonstrate the use of intermedia. Our analysis highlighted four particular characteristics: "medium scalability" (the unity of art and fashion and the unity of life and fashion); "synesthetic flow" (the audience's emotional immersion, represented by the actual performance and performances of the models); "participatory accessibility" (performance participation through action and instrumental support); and "immaterial symbolization" (an intuitive symbol that emphasizes both the direct outward appearance and the metaphorical symbolism so that the object is expressed in a figurative sense). From these results, we identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. Therefore, it might be useful to conduct an experimental study on this area of research.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.898-918
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• 2022

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.324-325
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• 2004

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.374-375
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• 2004

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 International Costume Conference in Association with ICOM 2004 SEOUL
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• pp.64-65
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• 2004