• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
• /
• 2005.06a
• /
• pp.77-78
• /
• 2005

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.331-347
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.3
• /
• pp.113-127
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2007

This study is to design costumes of each characters, seen in the film of 'TITANIC' directed by James Cameron in 1997, by analyzing various costumes for each roles in the film. The 'TITANIC' has got the 'Oscar Award' in 1998 in 11 sectors for its' high box office record and the finest of the work, based on successful visualization of the costumes for the contemporary characters by historical research. The social background of 'TITANIC' would be presumed in the year of 1912, of which era was also called by 'La Belle Epoque', to say, 'good period'. This study, therefore, traced the representative art trend for the 1910's, together with political, economical and social backgrounds as 1st step. The 2nd step is the consideration of fashion trends of costume affected by the contemporary trends such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the period. The 3rd step is the analysis of costumes in the film of 'TITANIC'. Finally, this work has designed the virtual costumes of the characters, in imaginary scenes, which could denote the nature of the personality. Hopefully, this study could help designers show sustainable development in creating cinema costumes and other related projects, based on the understandings of this work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the expression methods of uncanny images shown in contemporary fashion through the visual expression methods of plastic arts. The study results are as following. First, there is a concept-forming element of 'The return of Repressed', which is a psychological mechanism for generating uncanny sets to the component of 'repression' and 'return'. 'Repression' herein consisted of 'unconsciousness', 'the other', and 'anxiety', while the return was composed of 'trauma' and 'repetition compulsion'. Second, there are visual expression methods of the uncanny in contemporary art. The subject of 'repressed things' was expressed as grotesque and having a terrible look. 'Fragmented body' was analyzed as 'dismantling' by mutilation, 'combination' placing cut body parts in other places, and 'damage' suffering from an illness or accident. 'Fear of death' was shown as 'anatomy' reminiscent of death and 'iconography of death' meaning return of the dead. 'Post-human' was a surrealistic being such as a monster and mechanized human, and was analyzed as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'. Third, the methods of visual expression of the uncanny reflected on contemporary fashion was analyzed as 'fragmented body', 'fear of death', and 'post-human'. 'Fragmented body' appeared as the object reminiscent of the fragmented body, 'dismantling and combination of the body', and 'damage of the body' through the distortion of the clothing construction principle. 'Fear of death' visualized the characteristic elements of the subject reminiscent of death as 'iconography of death' and 'symbolic object of death' through the motif. 'Post-human' was the description of the subject beyond the body's function and form, and was shown as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.2
• /
• pp.55-67
• /
• 2012

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman's parodies: female viewed from a male's perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman's unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.67-82
• /
• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.153-168
• /
• 2023

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze's philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.71-71
• /
• 2003

In the 21st century, people expect new era and are skeptical about standardized life made by mechanization as well as information. They start to regard the Oriental culture, which was thought to be quite different from the Western culture, as an alternative overcoming Western ideas spiritual crisis because the Oriental culture has exotic beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.27-37
• /
• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.