• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.412-424
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning of soul fashion in American pop culture. This study was conducted using a literature research method based on the prior theses, journals and relevant books. Soul as a concept, originated in African-American communities and evolved from the ideology of Black Power, which prompted Black Nationalism. Soul fashion, which took on two styles in African American culture began to embody black resistance and community pride in the late 20th century. One of these, hip-hop style represented the message of resistance and a sense of beauty outside the mainstream. The other, African-inspired fashion, which utilized a look inspired by African tradition, rejected white supremacy by expressing a proud dignity. As a result, the meaning of "soul" in soul fashion represented by American pop culture resulted in contrasting appearance due to different elements. First, one of its meanings is ironic and sarcastic, and it expressed historical trauma, cultural stereotypes, self-hatred, and self-degradation and, the self-mutilation of African-American by cynically distorting their silhouettes and, using modified materials and patterns, fantastic colors, and extraordinary accessories. Second, the other meanings is the pride and dignity of Black Power, which visualized the concentration of ideas implied by the tradition of African-American, through soul fashion by using fierce traditional of African costumes, unique patterns and accessories.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.115-126
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• 1983

Myun Bok originated in China was introduced into Korea in ancient times. Some evidences show that it had settlled down as our own official robe already under Koryo Dynasty. And Koryo made her own regulations on Myun Bok. Kook Cho O Rye Eui(國朝五禮儀) of Choson Dynasty has comparatively detailed explanations on the way of cutting and shapes and materials. And the regulations are modeled after those of Ming China. But it has been impossible to know whether the regulations of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were strictly kept or not, because we have not enough remains through which to see it. And then we got very useful materials, Eui kue(儀軌), which are well known but have not been used in studying the history of costumes. Every Kook Chang Do Gam Eui Gue(國葬都監儀軌) have the provision of the so-called Pok Wan(服玩) set which includes the imitations or the full set of Myun Bok. And the provisions show us the illustrations colored in detail which help us understand the real shapes and the transformations of Myun Bok. After surveying the Pok wan provisions, author arrived at conclusions as follow; 1) Myun Boks are not always made in the same shape and colors. 2) The Provisions of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were not always kept strictly due to the lack of detailed directions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.28-44
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie "The Aviator". Firstly, looking at the costumes of main characters and their color images expressed in the movie, one extreme of Hughes' image to another was expressed in order to show his extreme inner world by using the light-dark contrast rather than specific colors as the base. The gold color used to express the image of Hepburn represented an image expressing her intellectual elegance. As for her dress silhouette, the taste of intellectual elegance was displayed by a dress whose back was exposed with a grownup-style feminine silhouette or one with drapes and pleats ornaments. To express Gardner's image; that is, her alluring charm and glow, a vivid red color was used. As for her costume, her splendid and fascinating image was expressed by the 40s' rectangular- shouldered tailored suit, exotic peasant blouse and showy accessories. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Hughes. The red color image of screening room was shown to be as a space for passion and desire and the green color image of men’s room as a space for stability and rest.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.145-163
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• 2016

This paper analyses Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings. this paper aims to discuss phases of Kandinsky's works as well as their formative characteristic theory. Practically, with formative characteristics in Kandinsky's paintings such as point, line, plane, form and color, this paper presents four sets of costumes. Among which, geometric patterns are intensively collaged as the formative characteristic of "point" calls for; crossed necklines and waistlines are applied as the characteristic of "lines" represents; plane and solid patterns are adopted as the main parts and ornaments as both the characteristic of "plane" and that of "form" claim; three primary colors - red, blue and yellow - are introduced as the characteristic of "color" depicts. Artificial leathers are used as the main fabric, patchwork and draping as so in technology. Therefore, with the theoretical and practical efforts, this paper aims to seek the interdisciplinary possibilities between paintings and fashion arts, and in order to develop several fashion designs representing modern aesthetics with their unique characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.55-70
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to offer a new inspiration for fashion design relating the "Romanticism" in art to one in fasion-examining the circumstance expressionad the latest trend which is involved with it. Since. 1990. Romanticism is motivated and represented in the middle of aridity in this age which is going on the end (of age). To say the details Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is classified in four categories : Retro Avantgarde, Minimal and Ethnic. First Retro mood in Romanticism is represented by reappearing the costumes in medieval Renaissance Baroque Rococo, Romantic era Specially corsets crinolines bustle decorative ribbons frills and Medieval symbols in religion are important factors in intuitional symbolic Romanticism. Second Avantgrde mood in Romanticism is mainly represented in the oriental patterns colors items being motivated by Eastern customs images and cultures. Today they appear in modern concept reinterpreting 'fusion" "hybrid" and "cross-over". Romanticism in fashion is creating new forms and beauties absorbing the past and the present. In addition it is motivated by the nostalgic mood. the expectation for the future and the refineent. Romanticism would be an important fashion theme to offer new inspirations for the fashion in 21th century rather than remain at the reappearance.er than remain at the reappearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.