• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.263-270
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• 2012

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) becomes unstable in the aqueous phase by oxygen, light and alkali, etc. The properties are limited in application to cosmetics. The most important factor that determines the destabilization of ascorbic acid in the aqueous phase was tried to understand considering its molecular deformation and degradation. In this study, we changed the polyols and emulsification technique for the stability of ascorbic acid. Then we observed the color and concentration change of ascorbic acid at room temperature and high temperature ($42^{\circ}C$) for 6 weeks and identified the stability using HPLC regularly. As a result, we found that glycerin was the most appropriate polyol for stability of the ascorbic acid. Also the technique of nonaqueous emulsification stabilized ascorbic acid than P/S emulsification. Also, P/S emulsification, glycerin was more stable than propylene glycol. By the results we suggest that ascorbic acid could be stabilized by nonaqueous emulsification method and this data could be applied to stabilization methods for cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.209-217
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• 2007

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from UV radiation and determines the race and skin color. Melanin is also major target for developing skin-whitening cosmeceuticals. Recently, as the market size of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals has rapidly expanded, related researches and developments are also focused on maximizing the safety and efficacy. Also, patents of skin-whitening materials have been increasing steadily for ensuring the competitive power. Patent also shows the research trend of industry and institutes. In this review, we analyze the trend of research and development based on the patent application of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.243-252
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• 2020

Using Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, polar low molecular weight keratin peptides were produced and confirmed through factors related to the skin elasticity. As a result of confirming the cytotoxicity and collagen synthesis ability according to the concentration of the polar low molecular weight keratin peptide in human fibroblasts, it was confirmed that the cytotoxicity did not appear and the collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts was increased. A mask pack containing a polar low-molecular weight keratin peptide was used, and a test product was used for 4 weeks in 22 healthy women subjects. As a result, it showed statistically significant effects on skin elasticity, skin torsion elasticity, skin color and moisture improvement. Through this test, it was confirmed that the polar low-molecular keratin peptide can be used as a cosmetic ingredient that helps improve skin elasticity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1149-1161
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• 2010

This study identifies the dimensions of cosmetics consumption values and the differences in cosmetics brand selection through a cosmetics consumption value group and by product type. The subjects of the study were females over age 20 living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province between January and February 2008; 427 questionnaires were used for analysis. For data analysis the SPSS 17.0 statistical program was used, and principal component analysis, factor analysis using Varimax rotation, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ reliability testing, cluster analysis, ANOVA test, and Duncan test were conducted. The results and conclusions of this study are as follows. The dimensions of cosmetics consumption values were found to be the pleasure value, the fashion value, the function value, the brand ostentation value, and the appearance ostentation value. Five types of groups by factor were identified: the group seeking function, the group seeking fashion and brand ostentation, the group seeking pleasure, the group seeking appearance and brand ostentation, and the indifferent group. Second, The group attaching importance to functionality was more likely to select high-priced brands while the group attaching importance to brand awareness were more likely to seek foreign brands, irrespective of product type. As far as base and color cosmetics are concerned, the group attaching importance to pleasure was more likely to select low, medium, and high priced foreign brands, as well as low and medium priced domestic brands. As for body products, the group attaching importance to fashion and brand awareness tended to select low, medium, and high priced domestic brands, as well as high priced foreign brands. By simultaneously purchasing high, medium, and low priced brands, these groups display an ambivalent consumption pattern. This study identified the differing dimensions around cosmetics consumption values and cosmetic brand selection. The research findings helps cosmetic companies set product prices and contributes to cosmetic marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.544-559
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• 2018

Korea's traditional aesthetic criterion changed with a new makeup culture that followed the social change caused by modernization. Such transitional features are well seen in the cosmetic advertisements of the 1920's and 1930's. To investigate the cultural characteristics and aesthetic-criteria changes of makeup culture at this period, this thesis analyzes cosmetic advertisements carried in newspaper media of the 1920's and 1930's from an aesthetic perspective. This study found that after the late 1920's, more diverse tones were used for face-powder makeup, collapsing the visual, powder-focused makeup which had been considered criteria for beauty, in combination with smelling and tactile senses such as scent or touch. Domestic makeup had the highest value attached to basic skincare in terms of the aesthetic effect via powder makeup; however, Japanese makeup still stressed the importance of color. Besides, particular facts were found as to social significance of makeup acts such as powder users' age group, safety, superiority and rivals of products, and appeal for makeup popularization. This thesis demonstrates how traditional female beauty appears in powder advertisements in the modern period and how it is related to present-day female beauty.

• Analytical Science and Technology
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.468-472
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• 2006

This paper was described that the preparation of polymetylmethacrylate (PMMA) microsphere and coating of vitamin C onto surface of the prepared PMMA microsphere for application of cosmetic materials. The PMMA microsphere with various sizes can be obtained by change of reaction condition such as reaction temperature and reaction time. The coating of vitamin C on the surface of PMMA microsphere by using cyclodextrin as binder can be achieved to 30 wt-% in water/ethanol mixture. The vitamin C coated with cyclodextrin was stabilized during 56 days at $40^{\circ}C$. The color of the coated Vitamin C was changed from white to dark yellow after 14 days at $40^{\circ}C$. The vitamin C coated with cyclodextrin on the surface of PMMA microsphere can be sufficiently used for cosmetic materials.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.210-216
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• 2007

Cosmetic products including skin and essence were manufactured to analyze the effect of green tea polyphenols addition. In addition, irradiation was applied to remove an undesirable color of green tea polyphenol(GTP), which may cause a problem in the marketing, of a final product; moreover, comparative studies were conducted with the cosmetic products on whether or not antiseptics were treated to verify its use for the development of non-antiseptic cosmetic products. Growth inhibition zones were shown in the microbial study except for Candida albicans. The minimum inhibitory concentration(MIC) of E. coli and C. albicans was 2,500 ppm but that of S. aureus was 1,000 ppm. The numbers of E. coli and S. aureus were reduced to undetected levels when 10,000 and 5,000 ppm of polyphenol were added, respectively. Results indicate that the addition of irradiated green tea polyphenol provides a good method to manufacture functional cosmetics including skin and essence with various biological activities such as antimicrobial activity without antiseptics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2012

The safety of cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients on human skin is generally evaluated by visual assessment but some early subtle skin changes may not be noticed by the naked eyes. Thus, the present study was conducted to detect skin reactions induced by mildly irritating cosmetic ingredients by using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) method that measures blood flow, a $Vapometer^{(R)}$ that measure strans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and a spectrophotometer that measures the skin color as the erythema values ($a^*$). Visual assessment showed that all tested oils and humectants except propylene glycol belong to the low skin irritation ranges (grades 0+ to 2.9+) while all tested surfactants and propylene glycol belong to the moderate-to strong-skin irritation ranges (grades 3+ to 5+). Among three instrumental methods, TEWL assessment appeared to be more sensitive than spectrophotometric or LDPI method and suitable for the detection of subtle skin response invisible to the naked eye (grades 0+ to 2.9+). Skin reactions of grade 3+ to 5+ could be detected by all three instrumental methods. In conclusion, the current study suggested that the sub-clinical skin reactions due to mild irritants contained in cosmetics can be best assessed by TEWL measurements.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.145-151
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• 2014

The antibacterial effect of Quercus salicina Blume extract was investigated and then the stability of a cream containing it best performing fraction, the ethyl acetate fraction, was evaluated. The antibacterial effect was evaluated on the skin microorganisms Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Propionibacterium acnes, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Among the Q. salicina Blume extract fractions, the ethyl acetate fraction demonstrated the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration against S. aureus (1,200 ${\mu}g/ml$), B. subtilis (2,500 ${\mu}g/ml$), P. acnes (1,200 ${\mu}g/ml$) and P. aeruginosa (312 ${\mu}g/ml$). Therefore, a cream containing 0.25% ethyl acetate fraction of Q. salicina Blume extract was prepared and evaluated for stability. The pH, viscosity, and absorbance of the cream were measured under various temperatures (4, 20, 37, $45^{\circ}C$) and sun light during a 12 week period. The changes in viscosity, absorbance and pH of the cream did not change significantly during the term of the experiment when compared with a placebo cream. In addition, any change in color or odor of the cream was not observed during the 12 weeks. These results indicate that the ethyl acetate fraction of Q. salicina Blume extract has a high antibacterial effect and is stable as a cream. There is therefore some potential for its use in cosmetic materials.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.345-350
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• 2002

This study was carried out to determine the effect of gamma irradiated Puerariae radix extract on color removal, antioxidative, DPPH radical scavenging and antimicrobial efftcts. Puerariae radix were extracted with methanol and acetone and irrdiated 10, 20 and 30 kGy with gamma ray. Hunter color L-value increased by irrdiation in a dose dependent manner, resulting in brighter color. But a and b values decreased by irradiation in a dose dependent manner. Antioxidant activities of the Puerariae radix extract in soybean oil emulsion were higher in methanol extract than acetone extract. Scavenging effect of Puerariae radix extracts on DPPH radical with methanol was not changed by irradiation but acetone decreased Acetone extract from Puerariae radix showed antimicrobial activities in B. subtilis, B, natto, B, megaterium S, aureus, Sal, typhymurium and E. coli methanol extract also had the antimicrobial activities but weaker for Sal. typhymurium and E. coli. Results suggested that Puerariae radix extracts have a potential as a natural food preservatives and cosmetic raw material.