• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.429-438
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• 2018

This study analyzed the fit-zone of the neck for females in their 60s. We considered the standard body types of females in their 60s and the four body types from the sixth Size Korea. The results of the study were as follows. We could not determine a pattern formula for the neck based on the changes in the body type of females in their 60s. However, the position of the lateral neck point generally showed a significant difference from that of females in their 20s. In the case of the shoulder angle, the point of the shoulder was angled slightly towards the back in all body types. It was also found that the curve of the neck circumference for both the collar and the bodice should have been smoother than what was shown on the 3D shape. The larger the height difference between the point of the back of the neck and the lateral neck point in the 3D shape, the smoother the design should be at the curve of the circumference at the front of the neck. A larger curvature in the front radius of the 3D shape increased the difference in the shape of the curve between the collar and the basic pattern of the bodice. Hence, a more careful design is required for these parts of the pattern. In addition, the more the front neck is bent, the smoother the circumference curve should be in the pattern design at the front of the neck and the collar.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 1995

In this paper, it is studied the design automation method in detail structural design stage using a general-purpose CAD system. It is observed that the macro function with parametric concept is very useful in detail structural design. We applied this concept to transverse web frame, slot hole and collar plate, and bracket modeling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.306-315
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• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.734-742
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• 2011

This study has been undertaken as a basic research for automatic pattern design for baseball uniforms manufactured under custom-MTM system, propose building up of a system whereby various partial patterns are combined under an automatic design system and develop a multi-combination type pattern searching algorithm which allows development of a various designs. As a result of this, type classification based on pattern design elements includes side, open, collar, facing and panel type. Design have been divided into coarse classification ranging from level 1 to 7 according to pattern design elements, based on a design distribution chart. Out of 7 such levels, 3 major types determining design which are, more specifically, level 1 sleeve type, level 2 open type and level 3 collar type, have been taken and combined to determine a total of 12 types to be used for design classification codes. Respective name of style and patterns have been coded using alphabet and numerals. Totally, pattern searching algorithm of multi-combination type has been developed whereby combination of patterns belonging to a specific style can be retrieved automatically once that style name is designated on the automatic pattern design system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.20-31
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• 2010

In this research, the submersible fish cage was designed to avoid structural and biological damage during harsh sea conditions. The submersible cage system consists of netting, mooring ropes, a floating collar, floats, sinkers and anchors. Whole elements of the cage were modeled on the mass-spring model. The computer simulations were carried out to investigate the dynamic behavior of the cage and to calculate mooring line tension subjected to tidal currents and waves. As expected, the tension values in the mooring line of the submerged position are 36% less compared to that of the surface cage under the same loading conditions. As the wave was used in combination with the current velocity of 1m/s, the average tensile load for the submerged cage showed 85% of the value for the floating cage. The simulation results provide an improved understanding of the behaviors of the structure and valuable information on the optimized design of the cage system exposed to open ocean environmental factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1376-1386
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate how one's visual evaluations are affected by variations in internal designs of tailored jackets. Major findings are: 1. Of the 35 pairs of adjectives, the factor analysis singled out the following five major factors (total variance of 55.62%): elegance, maturity, neatness, hard/softness, and evaluation. 2. The image of tailored jackets were found to be significantly affected by the length of its collar: jackets with long collar were perceived elegant, graceful, neat, mature and slim. 3. The number of buttons was also found to have significant impact on the image of tailored jackets: A one-button jacket, single or double, was perceived graceful, mature, formal, neat, natural, brisk, slim and so on. Its image deteriorated as the number of buttons increased. 4. Single jackets were found to be significantly different from Double jacket in their images. The former were perceived elegant, neat, and natural.