• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1527-1534
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• 2005

In order to clarify the characteristics of the thermo-physiological responses of the child and to understand the influence of the country where the child has grown up on the responses, the thermo-physiological responses of the Japanese children(J group) and the Korean children(K group) were examined. The subject wearing shorts was exposed first to a thermo neutral room$(Ta=28.5^{\circ}C)$ for 1 hour, then transferred to a cold$(Ta=22^{\circ}C)$ or a hot$(Ta=37^{\circ}C)$ room for 1 hour. The experiment was done in the climate chamber of Bunka Women's University in the summer of 1997 for Japan, and in the climate chamber in the Keimyung University in the summer of 1998 for Korea. The subjects consisted of 5 boys and 5 girls aged 7-9 years in Japan and 4 boys and 4 girls aged 7-9 years in Korea. As a result: 1) The rectal temperature increased slightly with a rise in air temperature. K group showed a slightly higher rectal temperature. 2) The skin temperature of the hand and foot decreased conspicuously during cold exposure. It was more in the K group than in the J group. 3) Relative local sweat rates were similar in the two groups at $22^{\circ}C\;and\;28.5^{\circ}C$, while they were considerably different at $37^{\circ}C$. Even perspiration was observed over the whole body in the J group but the perspiration was large in the trunk and low in the extremity in the K group. 4) The heart rate was higher in the J group than in the K group but it increased with the rise of the air temperature in both groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1971-1978
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• 2009

This study investigated the adsorption of safflower yellow dye on wool protein fiber and the optimum dyeing conditions to test color reproducibility. In addition, the effects of mordants on dye adsorption, color, fastness, and photofading rate were also studied. The prepared dye in powder form was characterized with UV-vis spectroscopy and FT-IR spectrometric analysis. The color of dyed fabrics was characterized by CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ coordinates, H V/C, and K/S values. The color reproducibility of the dyed wool fabrics was examined. The amount of dye adsorption increased and also, the shade of the dyed wool fabrics became deeper and more saturated with increasing temperature, time, and dye concentration. The maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.0. The shade of dyed wool fabrics ranged from light yellow to dark mustard yellow as the pH of the dye bath shifted from alkaline to acidic. Color reproducibility was reliable with color differences in the range of 0.53~1.75. Fastness to dry cleaning was relatively good at 4/5 rating irrespective of mordanting. Fe and Cu mordants showed the least color change of the dyed wool fabrics after exposure to light. Mordants did not contribute to improve dye uptake and color fastness, although they made variations in color tone. Safflower yellow dye can be used satisfactorily without mordants and will not cause damage to the environment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.7
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• pp.1-6
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes in properties of silk fabrics dyed with safflower red and yellow colorants under Ultraviolet(UV)-light. Silk fabrics dyed with safflower red and yellow colorants were compared with each other after uv-light exposure in terms of K/S value, color changes(${\Delta}E$), morphology, and strength retention. The K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time for samples of both colorants, but the extent of decrease was less for the samples dyed with safflower yellow colorant, than that of the samples dyed with safflower red colorant. Regarding the color changes with increasing exposure time, $L^*$ and $b^*$ increased, $a^*$ decreased, and thereby ${\Delta}E$ increased in the red-dyed samples, whereas $L^*$ increased, $a^*$ and $b^*$ decreased, and so ${\Delta}E$ increased in the yellow-dyed samples, indicating that the UV-light induced fading and changes of hue, value and chroma value. However, the color change of the yellow-dyed samples was less than that of the red-dyed samples. SEM images showed a severe degradation by UV-exposure for both colorant samples. Tensile strength slowly decreased until 14 days, but rapidly decreased thereafter. Strength retention of the yellow-dyed samples was higher than that of red-dyed samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1193-1204
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• 2011

As designs that simulate man's five wits are important, all five senses used are complex. Tactil value by Bernard Berenson means that the object in fine art makes the spectator feel like his or her finger is touching something, although the spectator is distant from the art piece. Especially as costumes have a relationship with the flexible skin and moving body, tactile modality and tactile value is more important. In order to analyze how Madeleine Vionnet realized a new femininity through the application of the principal of tactile value to dress design and in order to define tactile value in the field of fashion, this study examines the theory of tactile value, sculpture, painting, contemporary art, and product design as well as the design of Madeleine Vionnet from 1925 to 1937 because she was in the fashion business enlarging dress shops in New york during this period. The shape of Madeleine Vionnet's dresses made the concealed body alive through organic curves pressed against the body from cuts and dissections based on the anatomy of a supple body with curves and movement. In the garments, soft physical characteristics or the glossy touch of silk or pile textile imitated smooth skin while colors similar to a woman's eye, hair, and skin color continue the impression of the dress extending to the body through these design elements, Madeleine Vionnet's dresses reinforce the will to touch female body hidden under the dress by tactile values, not by the body's modification or visual exposure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.327-341
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• 2018

This study analyzed the influence of social distance and visual information on consumers' fashion style preferences in terms of information characteristics and providers. Data were collected from 521 females in their twenties and thirties who had experience using SNS. The empirical study results were as follows. First, with other factors of exposure under control, the social distance of information characteristics and providers showed a significant impact on fashion style preferences only when social distances were close. Second, the impact of social distance varied depending on the consumer's characteristics. This proved that innovation had significant negative influences, while conformity and informational sensitivity to others showed positive influences on the effects of social distance in terms of information characteristics. Innovation and fashion leadership also showed a negative influence on the social distance effect in terms of information providers. Third, conformity, informational sensitivity to others, and fashion leadership, proved to have a significant impact on the acceptance of eWOM in fashion styles, but innovativeness and normative sensitivity to others did not have a significant influence. This study can be used as baseline data in SNS marketing strategies for vitalizing information spread through eWOM.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.120-131
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• 2006

Recently, it has been reported that chemical hair coloring can cause allergic reactions, the toxicity issue of chemical hair color was issued. Therefore, there is an increasing interest in the hair coloration technique using non-toxic and bio-compatible hair color gotten from natural resource. In this study, the possibility using fermented Indigo as natural hair coloring agent was investigated. Bleached hair samples were dyed using Indigo, and the effect of dyeing frequency, the physical change after dyeing, color, surface and cross-section characteristics, and tensile property were also studied. In addition, the protection property of cationic detergent finishing on damaged hair samples were also studied. The following conclusions are made; 1. While bleached hair samples with low value showed the negligible effect of repeated dyeing, bleached hair samples with high value showed the good effect of repeated dyeing. 2. Hair sample dyed with Indigo showed a high light-fastness, however, tensile strength and elongation showed very low values (high damage on hair sample). 3. Cationic detergent finishing did not affect on the colorfastness because of decoloration after dyeing, however, it increased the smoothness of hair sample, and therefore, can use as protectant of damaged hair. 4. Hair scale was damaged after dyeing. It seemed that the alkali, potassium carbonate, increased pH of dyeing bath to 11, as a result, the hair was swollen, weaken, and dissolved on the prolonged dyeing time. Dyed hair sample became stiff and fine. 5. The color difference was 4.62 (a high fastness value) in the test of sunlight exposure, shampoo, cationic detergent finishing, and acid perspiration fastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.29-39
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• 2011

The purpose of this study provides a high consumer-oriented wedding dress on the consumer and offering the consumer-oriented product and provide a basis data to develop a wedding shops so it can stable and manage of effective marketing. Wedding shop for a survey of consumer preference, and based on this wedding dress designed and made. The results are summarized as follows. First, when wearing wedding dresses and "graceful and feminine" image that seek to pursue an image that showed the highest response, "simple and stylish", "cute and vivid" image was in order. In the survey of wedding dress preference, lace is preferred, in tone of color white is preferred by and large. In silhouette, A-line is preferred most, in neckline, exposure of the shoulder, in sleeve length, sleeveless, in decoration, beads. Second, on the basis of these results, depending on the image to pursue the design, wedding was made of 3 creations. The work I is a target of the early 20s, the concept "simple and stylish", and A-line is adopted in silhouette focusing on modern simplicity, soft satin material used of high class. The work II is a target of the late 20s, the concept "cut and vivid", and fit-and-flare made of many folded tulle mesh material. The work ill is a target of the 30s overall, the concept "graceful and feminine", and high-waist- empire-line is adopted in silhouette, splendid lace material used, is of the gorgeous and mature beauty.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.