Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Optimization of Wool Dyeing with Yellow Dye from Carthamus Tinctorius L.

홍화 황색소를 이용한 모염색의 최적화

  • Shin, Youn-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Son, Kyung-Hee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Yoo, Dong-Il (School of Applied Chemical Engineering, Chonnam National University)
  • 신윤숙 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • 손경희 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • 류동일 (전남대학교 응용화학공학부)
  • Published : 2009.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study investigated the adsorption of safflower yellow dye on wool protein fiber and the optimum dyeing conditions to test color reproducibility. In addition, the effects of mordants on dye adsorption, color, fastness, and photofading rate were also studied. The prepared dye in powder form was characterized with UV-vis spectroscopy and FT-IR spectrometric analysis. The color of dyed fabrics was characterized by CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ coordinates, H V/C, and K/S values. The color reproducibility of the dyed wool fabrics was examined. The amount of dye adsorption increased and also, the shade of the dyed wool fabrics became deeper and more saturated with increasing temperature, time, and dye concentration. The maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.0. The shade of dyed wool fabrics ranged from light yellow to dark mustard yellow as the pH of the dye bath shifted from alkaline to acidic. Color reproducibility was reliable with color differences in the range of 0.53~1.75. Fastness to dry cleaning was relatively good at 4/5 rating irrespective of mordanting. Fe and Cu mordants showed the least color change of the dyed wool fabrics after exposure to light. Mordants did not contribute to improve dye uptake and color fastness, although they made variations in color tone. Safflower yellow dye can be used satisfactorily without mordants and will not cause damage to the environment.

본 연구는 염색 공정의 표준화와 재현성을 확립하기 위해 홍화 황색소의 모섬유에 대한 염색성을 조사하는데 목적이 있다. 홍화 황색소는 물로 추출한 후 농축, 동결건조하여 분말상태로 만들어 사용하였다. 염색 온도 및 시간, 염료 농도, 염액의 pH 등에 따른 염착성과 색상 변화에 대해 조사하였으며, 세탁 및 일광견뢰도를 평가하였다. 염착량은 $50^{\circ}C$까지 서서히 증가하다가 이후 급격히 증가하여 $90^{\circ}C$에서 최고 값을 나타냈다. 염착은 초기 10분 이내에 빠르게 일어났으며 이후 서서히 증가하다가 40~60분 사이에 평형에 도달하였다. 염료 농도가 증가함에 따라 염착량이 계속 증가하여 점점 진하고 어두운 노랑색이 되었다. 산성 조건에서 염착이 잘 되었으며 pH 3.0에서 최대염착량을 보였다. 얻은 결과를 근거로 최적 염색 조건은 $90^{\circ}C$, 40분, pH 3.5으로 설정하였으며, 최적 조건에서 염색한 시료들 간의 색차는 0.53~1.75로서 재현성이 우수하였다. 후매염은 염착성 증진에 효과가 없었으나, 다양한 톤과 농담의 노랑색을 얻을 수 있었다. 세탁(드라이크리닝)견뢰도는 4/5등급으로 좋은 편이었으나 20시간 조사 후 일광견뢰도는 Fe과 Cu매염한 경우 3/4등급으로 색차가 가장 적었다. 결과를 종합해 볼 때 매염제가 색상톤을 다양하게 하는 효과는 있었지만, 염착량과 견뢰도 향상에 기여하지 못하였다. 홍화 황색소는 모염색에서 매염제 없이 만족스러운 결과를 얻을 수 있고, 따라서 환경에 피해를 주지 않을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

References

  1. Bechtold, T., Mahmud-Ali, A., & Mussak, R. (2007). Natural dyes for textile dyeing: A comparison of methods to assess the quality of Canadian golden rod plant material. Dyes and Pigments, 75, 287-293 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.06.004
  2. Cho, K. R. (1997). Study on the natural dyes. J. of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 9(5), 10-18
  3. Cristea, D., & Vilarem, G. (2006). Improving light fastness of natural dyes on cotton yarn. Dyes and Pigments, 70(3), 238-245 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2005.03.006
  4. Deo, H. T., & Desai, B. K. (1999). Dyeing of cotton and jute with tea as a natural dye. J. Soc Dyers Colourists, 115, 224-227
  5. Giles, C. H. (1965). The fading of colouring matters. Applied Chemistry, 15, 541-550
  6. Kanehira, T., & Saito, K. (2001). Stability of carthamin and safflower yellow B on silk powders under continous irradiation of fluorescent or UV-C light. Lebensmmittel-Wissenschaft und-Technologie, 34, 55-56 https://doi.org/10.1006/fstl.2000.0709
  7. Kim, G. J., & Lee, J. M. (1996). Chemistry of dyeing. Seoul:Hyungsul Pub. Co
  8. Saito, S., Kusakari, T., Suda, T., Kasai, T., Kumazawa, T., Onodera, J., & Obara, H. (2005). Efficient synthesis of analogs of safflower yellow B, carthamin, and its precursor: Two yellow and one red dimeric pigments in safflower petals. Tetrahedron, 61, 9630-9636 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tet.2005.07.080
  9. Shin, Y., Son, K., & Yoo, D. I. (2008). Dyeing properties and color of silk fabrics dyed with safflower yellow dye. J. Kor. Soc. Clothing and Textiles, 32(6), 928-934 https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.928
  10. Yoon, J. M., Cho, M. H., Park, J. E., Kim, Y. H., Hahn, T. R., & Paik, Y. S. (2003). Thermal stability of the pigments hydroxysafflor yellow A, safflor yellow B, and precarthamin from safflower. J. of Food Science, 68(3), 839-845 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2621.2003.tb08252.x

Cited by

  1. Dyeability of Fabrics Using Indian Dyestuffs of Madder, Marigold and Pomegranate vol.38, pp.6, 2014, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.6.929
  2. Optimization of Dyeing Wool Fibers Procedure withIsatis tinctoriaby Response Surface Methodology vol.9, pp.2, 2012, https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2012.681485
  3. Storage Stability and Color Reproducibility of Yellow and Red Dyes Extracted from Carthamus tinctorius L. vol.24, pp.3, 2012, https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2012.24.3.165
  4. Study of wool dyeing with natural dye extracted from chamomile flowers pp.1544-046X, 2020, https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2018.1489333