• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.165-182
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• 1994

Korea's clothing industry which has been country's leading export industry and basic strategical industry is now faced with many difficulties both domestically and internationally. Domestically it is faced with continuing shortage of manpower in both production line and management high labour cost causing increase in price putting more weight on behavior of consumers resulting in change of industrial environment and continuing structural problems of industry itself. Internationally it is faced with strengthening of import regulations and protectionism of developed countries and rapid emergence of underdeveloped countries as leading exporting nations. In reality export plays the most essential role in our economy and is especially sensitive to the external environmental factors. Already economic bloc phonomenon can be seen everywhere and is continuing to accelerate in place such as E. U in Europ, North & South America as NAFTA, and South East Asian contries which recent tendency of economic unity effort is present. These countries of such economic blocs are imposing heavy custom duties reinforcing provision of country origin and acting out strict inspection regulations in order to protect the interest of their own industry. Therefore it is vital to manufacture excellent quality goods For these reasons study in this area has brought attention in Korea as well as worldwide in the recent years. Apparel industry which requires professional technology and ability is the most competitive international business. In order to challenge the international market the high level of intelligence is most required to produce high quality goods. The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship between functions and roles of marketing and to approach problems in more efficient manner. Apparel industry is composed of various programs such as design pattern making merchandising and textile science. To succeed in the business is to give the highest satisfaction to the targeted market. Hence this study will example the factors that determine the Cost Quality and Performance of apparel products. The study will involve following steps; firstly establish relationship between the quality concept and productivity of apparel products Secondly inquire in to marketing strategy laying stress on apparel production related factors focusing on merchandising marketing production and operations Thirdly prospect 21st century apparel industry focusing on garment production and trade and also other countries structural improvement Fourthly establish the new dimension of competitive factors by grasping the actual circumstance of Korea's apparel industry in the international market. The research method will include; First reality approach method by analysing the present state of industry Second literal analysis such as marketing comparisons between leading apparel exporting countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.65-87
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• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.16-28
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the content and changes of modern Korean men's wear advertisement from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazines and pictorials. Research problems were as follows.; First, analyze the types and their units of measurement in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Second, examine the differences of quantitative change in men's fashion advertisements according to each period. The total 857 advertisements were selected from Shin Dong-A, Joongang Magazine, and Bokjangwolbo from 1972 to 1998. For analyze the result, frequency analysis and $x^2$-test were used. Results were as follows. First, through the review of literatures and pre-tests, 6 units of measurement were identified. They were product type(formal wear, casual wear, sports wear, dress shirts, accessory, inner wear, fabric and the others), brand type(national brand, licensed brand, imported brand, others), appeal type(image, product, others), representation type(photograph, illustration, others), medium type(man, product, others), and color type of advertisement(black & white picture, color picture). Second, for the types of advertisements, formal wear, national brand, image appeal, figure medium, photograph for presentation and color picture are the most frequently shown in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Third, for product, more accessory advertisements were found than the clothing in the 60s and the 70s, and casual wear advertisements in the 80s and formal wear advertisements in the 90s were dominated. National brand type was dominant through all four period. Product appeal type in the 60s and the 70s and image appeal type in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. For medium, product type in the 60s and the 70s and figure type in the 80s and the 90s were dominated. Black & white picture in the 60s and the 70s and color picture in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. Lastly, photograph was the most frequently used for presentation type through all periods.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.9
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The increasing rate of obesity in school aged children has become a conspicuous social phenomenon in Korea. This has been linked to greater economic growth, increasingly westernized dietary habits, and a consumer driven society. Given that obesity can lead to social exclusion or unfavorable attention by other students in a school setting, the design of plus-size garments have become important for effective appearance management skills. This research aimed to establish a somatotype database for obese school boys, aged 10 to 12, in order to develop a sizing system for plus-size upper garments. In order to measure somatotype of average and obese school boys, five categories were recorded; height, obesity, length of trunk, thickness of neck and chest. For obese boys, subcutaneous fat thickness and position of B.P/shoulder point factors were recorded. Obesity factor was subdivided into overall and specific ones, and while the deviation of obese body types was severe compared to the average type. Obese body type showed significantly higher measurements in width, girth, thickness. This is linked to the fact that the frequency ratio of obesity increases with age. Stature and chest were chosen as control dimensions for boys' wear. As crosstabulation of stature(5cm interval) and chest girth(2, 3 and 4cm), and stature(5cm interval)/chest girth(3cm interval) sizing system showed, the most effective cover ratio and adaptability to the data distribution $25{\sim}75$ quartile. Based on the findings, 10 sizes were formulated for average body type, while 18 sizes were formulated for obese type, whose size cover ratios were 48% and 62.9%, respectively. The primary ranges of stature were $145cm{\sim}150cm$, while those of chest girth were $79{\sim}82cm$. Each size was declared as "chest-somatotype{A(average)/O(obesity)-stature". This study proposed a plus-size upper garment sizing systems for obese boys, accompanied with reference measurements for suit, casual wear and underwear. The finding showed that the two systems were totally separate and not overlapping, meaning that plus-size sizing system is essential for obese school boys. The obesity type system had more size and wider range specs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.25-43
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• 1994

앙드레 꾸레쥬는 자신의 디자인에 건축적 조형미를 표현한 대표적인 디자이너이다. 그의 디자인들은 라인 뿐 아니라 색채, 소재, 액세서리에 이르기까지 건물을 짓듯이 설계, 구성되어 있다. 최근 복식미의 건축적 조형성이 강조되고 있는 것을 감안할 때, 60년대 이미 선구자적인 역할을 하면서 자신의 건축가적인 기호를 유감없이 발휘해온 꾸레쥬를 연구한다는 것은 21세기를 향한 패션의 발전 측면에서 조금이라도 의미가 있지 않을까 생각한다. 본 연구에서는 앙드레 꾸fp쥬가 가장 활발히 활동했던 1974년에서 1970년까지 그의 디자인들을 집중 연구하였는데, 그의 패션디자인에 건축양식의 특징들이 어떻게 나타났는지에 연구의 초점을 맞추었다. 본 연구의 대상으로 사용된 실제의 옷 샘플들은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 예술박물관내의 Costume Institute Storage 에 있는 의복과 액세서리들을 직접, 관찰 , 분석한것이고 그 박의 사진들은 패션과 건축에 관한 서적과 잡지, 박물관내의 Slide Library , 그리고 Costume Institute Library Collection에서 발췌 , 비교 연구한 것이다. 일찍이 엔지니어링과 건축을 공부했던 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 50년대의 패션 디자이너의 거장 발렌시아가 밑에서 10년 넘게 일하다가 독립하였는데 그의 디자인 세계는 줄곧 여성들이 입고 편히 활동 할 수 있는 기능성을 강조하면서 단순하고 편안한 의복 구성에 중점을 두었다. 그리고 그는 이러한 자신의 패션 철학과 의복제작 과정들은 현대건물이 갖는 단순성, 기능성의 특징과 일치한다고 믿었다. A. 라인(Line) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 패션 디자인에서의 비레는 건축에서구조를 쌓아가는 것과 같은 것이라고 생각하고 옷에서의 기본 구성을 기하학적인 라인에 두었다. 그래서 그의 옷들은 A-라인, 사각형, 사다리꼴,,, 등의 분명한 실루엣을 이루고 있는데 이러한 기본라인을 뒷받침이라도 하듯 소매가 아주 짧거나 없는 것이 특징이다. 황금분할이 아닌 1 : 1 구성은 그가 독특하게 사용한 비례방법의 하나인데 그것은 자켓과 스커트의 길이비례, 요크와 몸판간의 면적비례 등에서 잘 나타나고 있다. 그리고 그는 , 의복구성의 비례를 강조하기 위해 사용한 강한 색상의 대비를 현대건물의 인테리어에 빛을 사용하는 것과 같은 이치라고 설명한다. B.색상(Color) 흰색은 그러한 그의 비례강조 의복에 가장 적절한 색으로 사용되었다. 그는 빨강, 오렌지, 녹색, 분홍등 강렬한 원색을 사용하였는데도 불구하고 흰색은 그의 건축양식 발상의 Ideo를 완성시키는 완전한 색이었다. 뜨거운 날씨에 흰색이 가장 기능적인 색인 것처럼 강한 원색 대비를 통해 비례강조를 하면서 동시에 그것을 뒷받침하는 가장 합리적이고 기능적인 색은 흰색이라고 믿었다. C. 소재 (Material) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 건물을 짓듯이 사람위에 옷을 건축한다고 믿었기 때문에 자연히 둔탁하고 딱딱한 소재가 많이 사용되었다. 비닐, 금속류, 시퀸스처럼 광택나고 투명한 재료 선호는 그 당시 현대 건축에서 선풍적으로 많이 사용되었던 유리, 금속류, 크리스탈 등 비치고 광택나는 건축재료와 일맥상통하는 것이다. 그러한 선국적인 내료 사용결과로 보여진 괴상하고 선정적인 그러면서도 아주 단순한 패션은 미래 지향적인 건축양식 구조의 " Simple", "Plain" 느낌과 정확하게 같은 것이다. 이상과 같이 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 옷을 디자인 했다기 보다는 건축했다. 주목할만한 점은 60년대 말 당시 발표되었던 그의 건축 구조적인 디자인의 특징들이 21세기를 앞둔 90년대에 다시 크게 유행하고있다는 점이다. 꾸레쥬 역시, 최근 자신의 디자인을 통해 건축적 조형미와 미래지향적 이미지를 더욱 강조하고 있는 것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인, 흰색을 비롯한 자연에 가까운 색을 중심으로 하되, 밝은 색조의 하이라이트, 플라스틱, 금속류와 같이 딱딱하고 광택나며 비치는 재료 사용,, 등등이 바로 그것이다. 그리고 이러한 그에 미래 지향적이고 조형적인 디자인들은 앞으로 어떻게 더 모험적인 모습으로 선보일지 우리 모두가 주목할만한 일인 것이다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.