• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.99-111
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the expression methods of uncanny images shown in contemporary fashion through the visual expression methods of plastic arts. The study results are as following. First, there is a concept-forming element of 'The return of Repressed', which is a psychological mechanism for generating uncanny sets to the component of 'repression' and 'return'. 'Repression' herein consisted of 'unconsciousness', 'the other', and 'anxiety', while the return was composed of 'trauma' and 'repetition compulsion'. Second, there are visual expression methods of the uncanny in contemporary art. The subject of 'repressed things' was expressed as grotesque and having a terrible look. 'Fragmented body' was analyzed as 'dismantling' by mutilation, 'combination' placing cut body parts in other places, and 'damage' suffering from an illness or accident. 'Fear of death' was shown as 'anatomy' reminiscent of death and 'iconography of death' meaning return of the dead. 'Post-human' was a surrealistic being such as a monster and mechanized human, and was analyzed as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'. Third, the methods of visual expression of the uncanny reflected on contemporary fashion was analyzed as 'fragmented body', 'fear of death', and 'post-human'. 'Fragmented body' appeared as the object reminiscent of the fragmented body, 'dismantling and combination of the body', and 'damage of the body' through the distortion of the clothing construction principle. 'Fear of death' visualized the characteristic elements of the subject reminiscent of death as 'iconography of death' and 'symbolic object of death' through the motif. 'Post-human' was the description of the subject beyond the body's function and form, and was shown as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.23-36
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to identify the status of fashion related subjects in colleges and to utilize it as a basic material to develop a better curriculum. To do this, 43 2-year colleges or 63 majors in Korea were analyzed. From the analysis of the locations of the colleges with fashion related majors, it was found that 51.2% schools with fashion related majors were located in the Capital area. When looking at the division to which fashion related departments belong, it was found that 35.5% belonged to design related division, and 22.6% belonged to Art and Physical Education Division. When analyzing the subjects of the colleges with Fashion Design Department (Major), the subject which took the biggest ratio was Clothing Construction and Pattern Drafting as 32.8% and the next was Design Area as 31.5%. In case of Fashion Stylist Department (Major), the subject area with the biggest share was Design Field (49.5%). If looking into segmented classification, design related subjects were 20.9%, and styling related subjects were 17.9%. In Fabric and Fashion related department, the subject with the biggest ratio was Dying and Textile Design as 40.4%, and Fabric related subjects were the next as 22.3%. In the Broadcasting Stylist related departments, the subjects of with the biggest ratio was Fashion Design related subjects as 37% and the next was Beauty related ones as 30.2%. According to the study result, it could be concluded that Fashion related departments in the colleges located in the Capital area focused on the subjects to nurture a fashion designer and their curricula are not specialized or differentiated but somewhat similar one another.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.135-146
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• 2016

This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.110-123
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.79-91
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• 2011

This study divided school age by considering a change in the stage of body growth by age in elementary schoolgirls with the use of body scan data, and considered by comparing body size characteristics by school age. Elementary schoolgirls' body shape cannot be divided clearly. However, ages 7-10 were bound into the same group for the majority of girth, width, and thickness items. 7-8 years old, 9-10 years old, and 11-12 years old were bound into the same group in most items except ages 9 and 10 for the height item. Thus, significant difference was indicated between groups. Accordingly, this study divided the school age into three periods such as early stage(ages 7-8), middle stage(ages 9-10), and late stage(ages 11-12) in consideration of the stages for elementary schoolgirls' body-shape growth. As a result of analyzing body size according to division of school age, the higher school age leads to continuous growth. The notable growth was indicated especially in the middle stage and late stage. Examining centering on typical items related to the clothing construction, there was notable increase in waist thickness and hip thickness between early and middle stages and in height, weight, breast girth, waist circumference, back length, breast width, and waist width between middle and late stages. On the other hand, hip circumference, hip width, breast thickness, and length between shoulder edges were indicated to grow relatively and evenly among early, middle, and late stages. The lateral form was shown a clear difference in the forms of early, middle, and late stages in height and length of the whole body shape and in side thickness. The early and middle stages belong to body shape that abdomen is projected to be curved. The late stage showed right body shape which is straight and stable form in posture.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

Two hundreds of female aged 19 years old and up were recruited to evaluate the postural changes and bilateral variation of asymmetry over age. To find out the differences among the age group, subjects were classified into 5 groups, early young age(19-29), late young age(30-39), early middle age(40-49), late middle age(50-59), and old age(60-). 35 body measurements were taken by the 3-D body scanner which allowed us to take measurements which cannot be measured using traditional methods, including the shape of a cross section, slice area surface are, and volume. Bilateral variations were observed as a function of age; Depth of scapular point level, scapular point to center back, and blade angle. Postural change of anterior cervical angle, upper anterior thoracic angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, posterior cervical angle, and center back/center front ratio were also exhibited. In each measurements, subjects were classified into normal, and abnormal group. Percentiles of abnormal in shoulder line angle, blade angle, neck point $\∼$ acromial point $\∼$ scapular point, posterior cervical angle, and upper posterior thoracic angle were increased over age group. The upper body of lateral view was classified into 3 types of posture based on the previous research; straight, erect(leaning back), and stooped(bent forward). The percentiles of subjects who have straight postures were decreased as a function of age, but those of stooped postures were increased. Subjects who have erect postures did not so. The stooped posture group shows the big cervical fossa angle, anterior cervical angle, posterior cervical angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, and the small upper anterior thoracic angle comparing to the straight and erect posture group. These results could be apply for clothing construction reflecting the changes in back, shoulder, neck, and the bilateral asymmetry according to the target age group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.226-235
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• 2018

This study compares body types among the Korean, Northern Chinese and South Chinese women in their thirties. The subjects of this study are 30-39 year old females that consisted of 200 people from Southern China, 200 people from Northern China, and 202 people from Korea. The results are as follows. There are differences among Northern Chinese, Southern Chinese and Korean women. Korean women are taller than both regions of Chinese women, hip height measurement and waist height measurement of Korean women's are higher than Chinese women, it means that Korean women's lower body parts are longer than Chinese women. Northern Chinese women have the highest circumference measurements and depth measurements; however, Southern Chinese women have similar measurements with Korean women. The body type classification according to the GB/T 1335.2-2008 shows that Northern and Southern Chinese women have different body types. Southern Chinese women are mainly in "A body type" and Northern Chinese women are mainly in "B body type". The body type classification according to the KS K 0051 shows that Chinese women are all mainly "H body type", Korean women are mostly in "A body type". This study articulated specific differences in body types among Southern Chinese, Northern Chinese, and Korean women, especially between Northern and Southern Chinese women. This study provides basic data for Chinese female somatotype research and Korean fashion brands.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2015

Universities in Korea are already saturated with fashion-related majors, and graduates are having difficulties getting jobs. For this reason, Korean universities should educate students with a competitive curriculum. The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the curricula of fashion-related majors at universities in Korea and the United States (U.S.) in order to help develop fashion-related curricula at the universities in Korea. The curricula of the 52 majors in 47 Korean universities and the 62 majors in 62 U.S. universities were analyzed. Data was analyzed using MS Excel 2010 and R 3.0.1.; the statistical significance was determined at ${\alpha}$=0.05. There were five main differences between fashion-related majors in Korean universities and those in the U.S. universities: 1) The subjects of the U.S. were more diverse and more business-oriented than those of Korea, but the universities of Korea had more design subjects. 2) The U.S. more often utilized computer technology, than Korea, in the field of fashion design. 3) The U.S. offered more theoretical courses, than Korea, in the field of fashion materials. 4) In the clothing construction field, the U.S. offered more apparel design and technical design than Korea. 5) The U.S. mainly educated on retailing and buying subjects while Korea mainly educated on fashion marketing subjects within the fashion business field.