• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.1801-1808
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• 2001

본 연구는 노년여성을 위한 의복 원형을 설계하기 위하여 60∼80세 의 노년여성을 대상으로 직접 계측을 실시하여 체형을 유형화하고 동작에 따른 체표면 특성을 분석하였다. 인자분석을 실시한 결과 상반신 비만요인, 높이요인, 상반신 앞면길이, 어깨 형태, 상반신 뒷면 길이, 어깨 경사도, 목형태, 진동깊이의 8개 인자가 추출되었다. 군집분석에 의한 체형분류 결과, 유형 1은 상반신의 골격이 가장 작고 왜소하며 가슴의 하수가 작은편의 앞으로 굴신된 체형이며, 유형 2는 키가 작고 보통인 체형으로 상반신의 앞뒤면 길이가 짧으며 가슴의 하수가 크고 어깨가 넓고 약간 앞으로 숙여진 체형이다. 유형 3은 키가 가장 크고 등과 어깨가 두꺼운 골격이 큰 체형이다. 유형 4는 키가 약간 크고 마른 체형에 상반신 앞면길이 인자가 큰 유형으로 약간 뒤로 젖혀진 체형이라 할 수 있다. 동작에 따른 체표면의 변화를 델마토그래프법 (Dermatograph method)에 의해 측정 한 결과, 가로 방향에서 동작에 따라 유의한 차이를 나타낸 기준선은 뒤목점-어깨끝점길이, 어깨 길이 및 앞가슴둘레선, 후액와선이며, 세로 방향에서는 어깨끝점-BP-허리중심점, 어깨중심에서 앞허리선까지의 앞길이 및 옆선길이로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to classify and analyze the somatotype of early middle-aged women and to provide its total data for clothing construction, and to improve clothing culture. The subjects were 277 early middle-aged women between 35 and 44 years old. Data were collected through anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The results were as follows; 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 10 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 86.13 percent of total variance. 2. Using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and the subject were classified into 4 cluster. Type 1 is tall, slim, and X type in front. Type 2 is standard height and weight, short upper body, and hip-protruded on the side. Type 3 is standard height, thin, H type in front, back and hip are clearly protruded, and lean-back type on the side. Type 4 is standard height, fat, and long upper body. 3. According to the stepwise discriminant analysis, the 8 important iems is classifying the somatotype of early middle-aged women are as follows : bust girth, back length hip breadth-waist breadth, back protruded point depth(back)-back waist depth(back), hip tangent tilt, hip depth(back) waist dapth(back), bust depth-waist depth, and cervical hight, The correct classification rate for these items is as exact as 83.20%.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.852-862
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• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2006

This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the length variation of the upper arm surface, using the method of surgical tape, and to understand the expansion and contraction of parts of body for the making of clothing adaptable to movement. The subjects were li early elementary schoolgirls in Busan area classified with three somatotypes, and arm-movements consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. The results of the analysis of the length of the upper arm surface are as follows: By arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, upper arm length changed more in the front than in the back, and in the items of vertical, represented the opposite of horizontal items. In the items of upper arm, the anterior-posterior axilla length and under arm length were influenced by arm-movements, and the under length of the upper arm represented the maximum rate increase of 74.59%(3.20cm)$\sim$138.72%(4.28cm). In the somatotypes of early elementary schoolgirls, type II was more influenced by arm-movements, and for the making of clothing adaptable to movement, type III needed to reflect more surplus length(2cm) than the other types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권10호
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.583-595
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• 2013

In the women's clothing industry that targets middle aged-women, there is increased interest on middle-aged women and their appearance management and diet. It is believed that the body type of middle-aged women is becoming thinner. This study examines if middle-aged women body types have changed based on data from the $5^{th}$ and $6^{th}$ Size Korea that objectively analyzed the aspects of middle-aged women's body size change and the related fashion industry that recognize changes in middle-aged women body types by suggesting foundational data for clothing designs. According to research results, middle-aged women's body type shows an increase in items related to height and that measurement values related to obesity (such as weight and BMI index) tend to decrease. Height has increased and weight has decreased compared to the past. Most items related to width or depth tend to show decreased values and we can assume that the present middle-aged women's body type is changing more dynamically than before. It will be possible to design proper clothes for consumer body type and trends if we design clothes that afford multilateral attention to the patterns, design, or material in clothing design by applying the aspects of middle-aged women's body size and body type change.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.201-211
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to pinpoint currently arising issues concerning cyber fashion mall by analysing present status and contents of its web design, management and planning within the limits o business to customer (B2C) commerce, and to suggest a direction for building an ideal fashion mall on the internet. As for the study method, conceptual definitions were given based on previous studies. And a positive study was implemented, in which the cases of 23 chosen cyber fashion malls among 60 or so domestic and foreign malls selling fashion products were found by internet search engines and analysed. Results of the case analysis of cyber fashion malls are as follows : 1) cybermall must provide customers with an integrated service as well as e-commerce. 2) various products assortment and price differentiation must be developed, 3) the techniques of graphics, coloring and texturing, and layout design must be adopted to process and express product information, 4) the legislative system is needed to deal with the security, and 5) design and management of customer oriented interface are needed to process and express product information matter of electronic payment and customer protection. Considering the issues in internet fashion cybermalls, are suggested the important factors that are necessary or web design, planning and management to build an ideal cyber fashion mall. These results will contribute to the development of fashion e-commerce.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1979

The functional problems of the basic pattern of clothing are a matter of the first importance to clothing construction. Therefore, the ergonomic analysis of the expansion and contraction of the upper body surface, due to motion, has become required. thus in order to obtain the measurements and rate of expansion and contraction of the upper body surface following from its motions, the development figure of " Shell" and somatometry were employed. The results obtained through the investigation can be summarized as follows : 1) According to the developmental figures of "Shell" the latitudes centering around the shoulder line present contractive tendencies by arm movement. The longitudes around the center back waist length are expansive tendencies when bent forward. In the case of a 15$^{\circ}$ lean backward posture, the longitudes around the center front waist length are expansive tendencies. 2) By somatometry, the region from the scapula to the axilla point the upper back with presents the greatest expansion (more than 30%). The region from scapla to arm presents the maximum rate of contraction. In considering the longitude , under the axilla waist length and the bust point waist length generally shows the greatest rate of expansion. 3) The bust point waist length and under the axilla waist length are of great importance to the basic pattern of clothing. and have expansive tendencies(6.3cm). Among the latitudes, the upper back width has the greatest tendency for expansion (7.83 cm). 4) The region which presents the greatest rate of the expansion and contraction is in the proximity of the arm. These results testify that the amount of room of the back width must be given consideration in constructing the basic pattern of clothing.pattern of clothing.