• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.104-116
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• 1990

An example of functional army's training wear was developed with careful considerations given to the actual user. Three steps of a functional clothing design process were followed in the design procedure. First, information on the adequacy of the current army's training wear was collected by interviews with 192 persons. Second, the current design and construction of the training wear was altered to meet the user's need from the result of the interview. Third, the performance of the newly designed army's training wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of the microclimate within clothing, metabolic rate, garment pressure during arm movements and appearance during body motions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.933-941
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• 2007

재해로 인한 후천적인 장애인과 고령화로 인한 노인의 수가 증가하고 있는 현 상황에서, 이들이 가지는 신체적인 제약을 보완할 수 있는 개호복의 개발이 요구되고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구는 지체 장애인의 의상 디자인을 위한 아이디어나 해결책을 제공하여 패션과 기능이 접목된 의상 개발에 도움이 되고자 한다. 이를 위해 먼저 장애로 인한 신체적인 특성 및 의상착용에서의 문제점 등을 조사하고, 이를 보완할 수 있는 개호복 디자인에서 고려해야 할 필수 요소들을 살펴보았다. 장애인이나 노인을 위한 의상을 취급하는 21개의 웹사이트를 선정하여 조사하고, 실용적이고 기능적이며 미적인 의상들을 품목별로 제시하였다. 그 결과, 이러한 의복에서는 오프닝의 구성 및 위치, 단추 지퍼 벨크로 등과 같은 여밈의 종류와 수, 움직임의 편안함과 연결된 디자인 개발이 주의깊게 고려되었음을 알 수 있었다. 이와 같이 신체적 인 제약을 보완할 수 디자인의 연구와 개발은, 장애인 개개인이 자신에 대한 소중함을 깨닫고 의기소침함에서 벗어난 긍정적인 사고를 갖게 하고 숨어있는 능력을 발휘할 수 있게 하는 사회적 재활의 한 측면으로 중요한 의미가 있으므로 꾸준히 지속되어야 한다고 사료된다.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.85-100
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• 2006

Fashion related with architectural paradigms includes concept of the space utilization beyond fashions field. Such a fashions concept is able to enlarge as a spatial system like architecture. Interface between fashion and architecture is originated in thinking of the rhizome, which understands fashions field within various relationships between environment of the city and fashion. The existing construction systems of fashion is not sufficient in fashions roles as the space that wearing changing body continuously. Consequently, accommodation of architectural paradigms in fashion depends on new recognition about function and space. Architectural paradigms expressed in fashion since 1990s was classified as follows: 1 modular system of Le Corbusier & Archigram, 2 deconstruction, 3 reconstruction, 4 nomadic architecture. Such a paradigms has been easy to combination among fashion and architecture and furniture. Deconstruction and reconstruction fashion revealed process toward completion, and reappeared architectural consideration about process of change toward incompletion. There are acknowledged formative characteristics as follows: mobility, changeability, multi-function, mutual combinative, openness, and fluidity. This study shows that fashion is essential device determined city environment construction in 21C, and revels that fashion has been highlighted as a presage of new spatial economy received architectural construction systems.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.159-172
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement -fitness of the hip region. The experimental items were divided into the 5 lower limb movements(M1-M5) and the 12 revision pattern constructions of slacks. This study was done by clothing pressure test sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First by the clothing pressure tested by lower limb movements the clothing pressure score of the rabbit leap movement(M3) was the highest of all lower limb movements and the order of it in the another movement was the sit on knee(M4) the sit on chair(M2) the noble sitting(M5) from the highest to the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And also for a role to cover hip circumference extendign CC4(1/5 hip.1cm longrightarrow linked back -line) method showed the lowest. Second by the sensory evaluation test based on the movement and revision patterns it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was the lowest in all movement however the score of revision patterns were higher than basic pattern. Third by the test to show difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on chair(M2) also need to be analyzed. The ration of the shape-transformation of the knee region showed the least value in the increased patterns of inclined angle of back-line(CA) and the differential methods of back-line inclined pattern making. But that of the hem-line did not show remarkable difference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.103-122
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• 2007

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.37-48
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• 1986

The purpose of this study was to analyze 'the natural groupings' of subjects in order to classify highly similar somatotype for clothing construction. The sample for the study was drawn randomly out of senior high school boys in Seoul urban area. The sample size was 425 boys between age 16 and 18. Cluster analysis was more concerned with finding the hierarchical structure of subjects by three dimensional distance of stature. bust girth and sleeve length. The groups forming a partition can be subdivided into 5 and 6 sets by the hierarchical tree of the given subjects. Ward's Minimum Variance Method was applied after extraction of distance matrix by the Standardized Euclidean Distance. All of the above data was analyzed by the computer installed at Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology. The major findings, take for instance, of 16 age group can be summarized as follows. The results of cluster analysis of this study: 1. Cluster 1 (32 persons means $18.29\%$ of the total) is characterized with smaller bust girth than that of cluster 5, but stature and sleeve length of the cluster 1 are the largest group. 2. Cluster 2 (18 Persons means $10.29\%$ of the total) is characterized with the group of the smallest stature and sleeve length, but bust girth larger than that of cluster 3. 3. Cluster 3(35persons means $20\%$ of the total) is classified with the smallest group of all the stature, bust girth and sleeve length. 4. Cluster 4(60 persons means $34.29\%$ of the total) is grouped with the same value of sleeve length with the mean value of 16 age group, but the stature and bust girth is smaller than the mean value of this age group. 5. Cluster 5(30 persons means $17.14\%$ of the total) is characterized with smaller stature than that of cluster 1, and with larger bust girth than that of cluster 1, but with the same value of the sleeve length with the mean value of the 16 age group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.393-403
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• 1991

The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.407-412
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• 2006

In order to check ordinary trend of a research for old ages, it was collected and analyzed against old ages. Out of a research papers from 1995 to 2005 issued for 6 scientific journals in clothing and textiles areas which were listed on KOREA RESEARCH FOUNDATION. The results were as follows. First, the research papers for 11 years from surveyed scientific journals were totally 5,711 papers, and It were only 71 papers for old ages to be reviewed and surveyed, which slightly occupied 1.24% from whole papers. Second, yearly ranges of research paper against old ages were shown to be down-trend, as it recorded 2.75% in 1995, however it falls on 0.77% in terms of the increasing aspect of clothing and textiles research paper numbers. Third, a paper for each research areas ranged in turn, as clothing construction, fashion merchandising socio-psychology of clothing, etc. If we see in detail area, the research for somatotype and role occupied 37.4% from all researches against old ages. Accordingly it needs more various kinds of study. Fourth, The Koreav Society of Clothing and Textiles paper occupied 40.8% from whole scientific journals, which was obviously shown. Fifth, each sex distribution for researched old ages noted almost old women (77.5%), but cover 9.9% for old men. Therefore it required much more researches for old men, we thought.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in terminologies used in South and North Korea, to describe objects or activities related to clothing and textiles, as a part of a bigger project that aims at developing an educational program in provision of reunification of the Koreas. In this study, a total of 176 North Korean terms that differ from South Korean terms were collected from various sources, including dictionaries that are developed to compare South-North Korean languages as well as texts such as magazines and news articles, about North Korean daily life. The terms were classified into sub-categories: materials for clothing, clothing management, construction and design, garment names, body parts, description of physical appearance or state of hygiene, and apparel industry. Many of the North Korean terms were derived from native expressions, rather than adopting foreign terms or terms in Chinese characters. Some North Korean terms did not have any corresponding words in South Korean terms or vice versa. We expect the terminology list to become a useful educational resource in establishing a clothing and textiles curriculum in preparation of reunification, by allowing the students to familiarize with the differences in the usage of terms.