• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.49-62
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• 2020

This research investigates how interest develops across a set of tasks within a course defined by a specific knowledge domain. The current study examined the relationships among self-concept, self-efficacy, Korea-related factors, and evaluation, in the context of learning about the Hanbok costume at Chinese universities. A survey (n=300) was conducted using an online survey website (www.sojump.com) from the 1st to the 25th of June. The structural equation model (SEM) analysis, including total and specific forms of self-evaluation with Hanbok courses, showed that self-concept was positively associated with self-efficacy. Conversely, K-culture interest and K-country image did not significantly affect self-efficacy in clothing, but positively affected Hanbok's self-efficacy. Meanwhile, the more self-efficacy perceived, the higher the level of evaluation. Overall, our findings imply that supporting the students' Korean culture interest, country image perception, and self-concept for regulation can enhance self-evaluation and self-realization success. Theoretical and practical implications for Hanbok courses are discussed.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.89-105
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• 2014

This study researched the changes in everyday wear in China since the mid-20th century. The study was conducted by interviewing 13 Chinese persons who were familiar with the public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to now, and the results were analyzed through categorical analysis and subject analysis. First of all, due to the influences of Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-zhuang and Bulaji, political characteristics were represented the most during the reconstruction time, and during this time, Jieyueling also became famous. Second, during the period of the Cultural Revolution, the government used many mechanisms to control people's thought, so Junfu/Junbianfu and sailor shirt were the most common clothing. Third, information from the West began to enter the Chinese market and it started to influence and change the Chinese thinking. Suit, bat wing sleeves, colorful skirt, flares and jeans became more and more popular in the reform and open times. Fourth, during the personality expression time, people not only copied fashion icons' styles, but also created new styles like sexy, cute, ethnic, K-pop, street, and DIY style, in order to show their personality. Finally, during these 60 years, the changes of Chinese everyday wear were characterized by de-politicization, ready-made, diversification and individualization.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.965-978
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• 2014

To determine the parameters to be considered when designing lower-body apparel, we analyzed the lower-body figures of adult women in their early 20s from Shanghai, China, using 3-dimensional whole body scanner. Thirty-nine lower-body-related measurements were used to analyze the figures of 210 Chinese women. Obesity and height of the lower body, length from waist to crotch, shape of abdomen, and leg bone length were analyzed. Factor analysis was performed and the results were classified into three clusters. The first cluster describes the obesity of the lower body, the second denotes small hip measurement, and the third describes slim and long legs. This is the first study to quantify figure analysis of the lower body of Chinese women using 3-dimensional body measurements. The findings of this study will provide concrete information regarding crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, waist slope, etc., for designing trouser patterns for Chinese adult women.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2001

Picasso had deep concern at the designs of theatre costumes as well as art. The art of Picasso influenced deeply to the fashion designs in those days. In these study, to analyze the creative theatre costumes of Parade affected by Picasso's cubism, we investigate the documentary records, photos, and sketches of Picasso. The design of theatre costumes in Parade was able to be divided by two categories, general theatre costumes and experimental theatre costumes. The first characteristic of general theatre costumes is that the designs of theatre costumes in Parade were influence by the early stages of Picasso's art. The costumes of the Chinese Conjurer influenced by the Red Era of Plcasso's art and those of the Little American Girl and the Acrobats influenced by the Blue Era of Picasso art may belong to the category of general theatre costumes. The second characteristic of general theatre costumes is the fact that the images of heavenly bodies were used in the costume of the Chinese Conjure and the Acrobats. The characteristic of experimental theatre costumes is the fact that the cubism is introduced to the designs of theatre costumes in Parade. The experimental theatre costumes were presented in the costumes of the Three Managers which were newly created under the influence of Picasso's cubism.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.55-61
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• 2006

China became the largest costume industry and export country since 1994. The fashion market in China has been changed from seller's market to buyer's market. During this period, brand has taken an important part. The fashion industry in China is developing on outlook, function, materials and categories. I want to do this brief research on the ten years of China Fashion Week to review the development of China Fashion Week, which is the symbol of China fashion industry. I hope it can be reference for being comprehended by Chinese and other foreign countries. In 1997, China Fashion Week was called Fashion Design exhibition. The title was modified to be China Fashion Week in 2000. In 2003. the title was developed to China Fashion Week (Spring/Summer Collection) and China Fashion Week (Autumn/Winter Collection). In the past ten years, there have been 300 fashion collections, with 600 fashion designers who joined in the competitions, and thousands of models, reporters and photographers, who took part in China Fashion Week. Recently 200 login fashion brands, 300 fashion designers, more than 500 reporters and 50 model management companies have made a relationship with China Fashion Week. The first moment of China Fashion Week- "famous designer project": paying attention to the relationship between the level of fashion designers and the style of brands. Quite a good deal of fashion design became more practical. The second moment of China Fashion Week- "improving Chinese fashion brands ": fashion show was not a kind of stage art but the business dealing for brand during that period. The situation of China Fashion Week now: Chinese Haute Couture is showed wonderfully during China Fashion Week. Fashion contest became the character of China Fashion Week. The contests were for adult fashion designers, new designers, models, and photographers. According to the development between different countries on fashion, the international communication of China Fashion Week became more and more popular and wide. Fashion designers from France, Italy, New York, Korea and Japan had fashion shows in China Fashion Week. The Chinese top fashion designers were showing their work during Paris, Milan and New York fashion shows.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

This report is a study of designs embroidered in rank badges of military and civil officials' uniform in old China. Rank badges, or Bo(補) in Chinese, which are attached to officials' uniform, are embroidered designs on the breast and the back for people to easily discern between military and civil officials as well as between higher ranking and lower ranking officials. Bo(補) was used for various social stratum including king, queen, king's brothers, prince, and princess. This study, however, is focused on design of Bo(補) attached to the uniform of military and civil officials. This study first started with the origin of Bo(補) design, woven symbols in patches on the breast and the back of Gibsa(集史)'s uniform during the Yuan(元) dynasty. Lastly, this study reviewed and analyzed design of Bo(補) for military and civil officials during the Ming(明) and Qing(淸) dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.51-67
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• 2013

This study aims to examine impacts of the Internet shopping orientation of Korean and Chinese consumers on their selection criteria of shopping malls and apparel products, frequencies and amounts of purchase, and information search in the Internet shopping mall. A survey was carried out with Korean and Chinese female consumers in their 20s and 30s who have the Internet shopping experiences. The results of this study were as follows: First, the Internet shopping orientation of Korean and Chinese respondents clearly showed factorial structures including the pleasure-conscious, fashion-conscious, price-conscious, and convenience-conscious orientation. From a result of the cluster analysis on four factors of the Internet shopping orientation, Korean and Chinese respondents were classified into three groups of the Internet shopping-unconscious, the Internet shopping-loyalty, and pleasure convenience-conscious. Second, there were significant differences in selection criteria of both the Internet shopping mall and apparel products among three groups of the Internet shopping orientation in Korea and China. Third, significant differences were identified in visiting frequencies, apparel purchase frequencies and amounts, payment methods, and information sources during the Internet shopping among three groups of the Internet shopping orientation in Korea and China.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.33-48
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• 2018

The purposes of this study were to investigate the social instrumentality of appearance, appearance orientation, and cosmetics purchasing behaviors of Chinese male consumers, and to find differences in the cosmetics purchasing behaviors of the male consumer groups, which were segmented by the social instrumentality of appearance and appearance orientation. The subjects were 400 adult males in their 20s to 30s from Gillim province in China. The measurements consisted of the social instrumentality of appearance, appearance orientation, cosmetics purchasing behavior, and the subject' demographic attributes. The data was analyzed by descriptive statistics, frequency analysis, $x^2$ test, multiple response analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, young Chinese male consumers had a high sense of the social instrumentality of appearance, but the tendency to invest time and effort to enhance their looks was still low. Second, on the basis of the social instrumentality of appearance and appearance orientation, young Chinese male consumers were classified into four groups (high involvement group, instrumentality group, orientation group, and low involvement group). Third, the four male consumer groups revealed many significant differences in various cosmetic purchasing behaviors (purchasing items, information sources, product selection criteria, purchasing motives, purchasing locations, store selection criteria, purchasing price, purchasing frequency, and cosmetics improvements). Therefore, the social instrumentality of appearance and appearance orientation are seen as significant variables to effectively segment the Chinese male consumer market. The cosmetics companies targeting young Chinese men need to establish differentiated marketing strategies, considering the characteristics of each segment of the consumer market.