• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.58-76
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• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.1-16
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• 2007

The study aimed to develop the nightgown considering the construction and design features of the Shimui and the Cheolik. The analysis on the construction features of the Korean traditional costume and the physiological and motional attributes while sleeping resulted into the construction factors of the nightgown developed in the study. Consequently, the nightgown having these traditional Korean costume features were made for the evaluation. 4 different types of nightgowns were designed to be constructed. 20 professional clothing staff evaluated these 4 nightgowns developed and the existing nightgown used in the hotel industry. The results from the wearing test evaluation were: (1) to consider the stable closure of the gowns while wearing, the scores of the gowns developed were higher than the existing one. (2) the evaluations of the wearing comfort of the standing posture for the gowns developed and the existed were more or less similar but considering the lying down posture, the scores of the developed ones were significantly higher. (3) the gowns developed to have the wide-ham lines were considered more appropriate to the leg movement compared to the existing gown. The results from the fit and appearance test evaluation were: (1) throughout the all hight levels, the means of the gowns developed were higher than the existing gown's means in the most of the evaluation questions. (2) in the evaluation of the Korean traditional features, the gowns developed were more appropriate than the existing one. Consequently, the gowns developed were considered better to compare to the existing one in the context of postures, movements, comfort, appearance, fit, and design features.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.33-44
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the roles and costume of Sodong as shown in the illustration of Choseon Delegation to Japan. Results of the study can be described as below. First, as shown in the illustration, Sodong played roles as Tongin and dancer. As Tongin, Sodong provided services or made errands for his seniors. In the other role, while, Sodong danced to comfort his seniors and show dances of Choseon to Japanese people. Second, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui throughout his march with the delegation as Tongin. This is probably because the two clothes made him feel convenient and easily active. In both 1700s and 1800s, meanwhile, Sodong also wore Jikryeong and Cheolik. Third, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui, or Danryeong and Nansam all the time when he navigated together with the delegation. When passing through Tsusima into the Japanese mainland, which meant starting international exchanges between Choseon and Japan, Sodong sticked to formality to the utmost by wearing Danryeong and Nansam. Fourth, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui when he performed as dancer. The two clothes were also worn by Mudong during outdoor banquets in Choseon at that time. In addition, it is thought that Sodong wore Jikryeong, Danryeong and Nansam like when he marched or navigated together with Choseon Delegation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.17-34
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• 2011

This study examined how Bangryeong(方領) had been changed from ancient times in China to the Joseon dynasty[朝鮮] in Korea by analyzing Bangryeong in literature, relics, paintings, etc. Based on this, we also analyzed the form of Bangryeong itself and clothes with Bangryeong using excavated relics from the Joseon dynasty. First, from early Chinese literature, it was confirmed that meaning of "Bangryeong" was a collar attached straight to a garment so that if the garment is put on with the fronts intercrossed with each other the back neck part of the collar is naturally squared. Second, from literature in the Joseon dynasty, it was confirmed that the meanings and forms of Bangryeong were diversified and had different characteristics throughout different time periods. Different from its original meaning in China, Bangryeong came to mean an intentionally designed square shape. Third, Bangryeong from the Yuan(燕) and Ming(明) Dynasties were found among relics excavated in China. Bangryeong from Yuan was Cheolik[帖裏] worn by men, and Bangryeong from Ming was found in women's dresses. Fourth, Bangryeong relics from the Joseon dynasty examines its form in detail. Bangryeong was found in various forms of clothes, and this was consistent with findings from literature review.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.51-67
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.51-60
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• 2013

The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.