• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2007

Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2009

The main investigation of this thesis is about the comparative analysis of the fashion style preferences in the ages of 20-30 women, according to the style, by researching the area of Dalian and Seoul, represented as outstanding fashion cities in north eastern area. Both taking pictures and recording camcoders were performed at the famous fashion street in Seoul and Dalian. The period of investigation was from 24th of July to 2nd of August 2008. The result of research are as follows. Generally, the casual style was predominant in both area. The jean casual in Seoul was somewhat tidy and conservative, while that in Dalian showed the tendency of boldly exposed their body. In terms of easy casual, T-shirts and mini-tight skirt were preferred in Seoul, while T-shirts and midi-flare skirt was popular in Dalian. In Seoul, the blouse and mini skirt were in vogue, while one-piece dress, blouse and 5/7/9 length pants were prevalent in Dalian, in case of romantic style. The sports casual was relatively low in frequency in both areas, however, it was relatively more popular in Dalian than in Seoul. The frequency of classic style was similar in both areas. The T-shirts/blouse and Chanel-line skirt were preferred in Seoul, while the combination of jacket/shirts and full-length straight pants were preferred in Dalian. The one-piece dress was predominant in feminine style, the combination of mini one-piece dress and shoulder bag prevalent in Seoul, while the combination of Chanel-line one-piece dress designed as boldly exposed body was popular in Dalian, which shows the tendency of sexy, feminine style. The clear contrast or differences of street styles in Seoul and Dalian would become evident by this research. The continuous investigations into the various regions of China would be expected as an important measure for the successful launching into the Chinese fashion market.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of Chanel bags by its type and shape, material, color, pattern, decorations in order to give information about foundation of the development of Korean fashion brand handbags and help suggest predict future handbag trends. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. For the documentary research, mainly previous researches and fashion related data were used. For the demonstrative research, the total of 288 design photos of Chanel bag were selected from 2001 S/S season to 2008 F/W season fashion collections of firstview.com., style.com., and mode et mode. The results of this study are as follows; First, type and shape of bags are clutch(30%), flap(25%), shoulder(25%), others(10%), tote(5%), hobo(5%). Second, the material data shows that leather(46%), mixed(18%), fabric(17%), synthetics (10%), patent(3%), others(3%), and suede(2%). Third, the patterns are geometrical(27%), solid(25%), combination(24%), symbolic(11%), abstract(11%), nature(2%). Fourth, the colors are largely monochrome(73%) and multicolor(27%). In case of monochrome, achromatic color(50%) is more than chromatic color(23%). The chromatic color is consisted of YR(9%), Y(9%), R(5%), RP(4%), PB(2%), P(1%), GY(0.5%), BG(0.5%). The multicolor is consisted of similar coloration(12%), contrast coloration(10%), and accent coloration(5%). Fifth, the decoration data shows that metallic(53%), plain(23%), combination(22%), and handcrafted(1%).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.342-352
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• 2008

Picasso and Chanel were the most famous artists of modern art & fashion area in 20th century. It is well known that they have deeply influenced to the current fashion and art. This study is aimed to analyze Channel's works based on the aspects of Picasso's from 1900's to 1930's. There are five common, distinct and formative aspects - flatness, geometry, transparency based on multi-perspective, volume, variety of objects. Their works are based on the simplicity which is expressed by the analyzation, organization, deconstruction influenced by cubism. It is reconfirmed that they gave the general public the new value-functionality-by using the ready-made materials. Nowadays artists model themselves after Picasso and Chanel who made attempt to conversion of ideas, the steady style, the long view, the interchange of other fields and popularization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.41-54
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to find out the relationships between clothing style pre-ferences and self-image and to examine the differences in clothing style preferences ac-cording to marital status educational level and social stratification of women. The drawings of clothing style were designed referring to the catalogues for spring/summer of 1996 and printed by computer 6 styles of suit corresponding to clothing image were selected. Style A is a brown suit decorated with scarf style B a grey suit with stripes C a yellow suit with printed pattern D a grey and beige suit E a chanel suit decorated with corsage and F a blue suit with pleated skirt. The self-image was separated to the actual self-image and the ideal self-image. Samples were 226 women(ages 18 to 37) in Seoul Korea. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Clothing images of 6 styles were estimated; Style A was plain conservative formal and gentle image ; B masculine solid actual dark and plain image; C feminine romantic bright and splendid image; D actual ordinary un-fashionable and plain image; E feminine ten-der romantic and non-active image ; F indi-vidual fshionable open casual sprightly and active image. 2. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and realistic self-image. The women who considered them-selves as masculine preferred style B mascu-line and plain image. The women feminine and conservative preferred style E feminine and tender image. The women not to follow the fshion preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women informal and open pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 3. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be con-sidered themselves as feminine and conserva-tive preferred style E feminine and tender im-age. The women who wanted gentle and con-servative preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women who wanted sprightly pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 4. There were significant differences in clothing style preferences according to marital status educational level and social stratifi-cation. The women with more eduacation pre-ferred the splendid and the plain image at the same time. The upper class preferred feminine image and lower class casual and active image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.531-542
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• 2009

This study examines the correlation between the characteristics of sustainable slow design, The outcome derived from the pro-environmental consciousness in fashion design, and the trends of modern fashion design. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, slow design for sustainability shows an environmental consciousness and stresses the ethical aspects of fashion design that take into account the wellbeing and sustainable development of human society. It also focuses on the continuos present in which the consistent pace of life endures, rather than pursuing speedy changes of fashion by titillating desire. Second, the five characteristics of slow design have been extracted from the analysis of the examples of fashion industry and other fashion-related areas. They are sustainability, recyclibility, handicraft, naturalness, and simplicity. Third, these characteristics of slow design have much to do with modern fashion genres. For instance, classical style fashions such as Chanel suit and Burberry coat have the same qualities of sustainability, while at the same time the Vintage fashion, which reinterprets the fashions from bygone eras in modern style, has the tendency of recyclibility, and the Hippie style, a resurrection of hand-touch spirit that emerged as a secondhand style expressionism resisting uniform mass production, has not only the quality of handicraft but also recyclibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.16 no.2 s.61
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• pp.209-216
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• 2007

Some may call Peter Marine as 'an ego-less architect', or 'palace maker' due to his designs or attitudes that appearantly please world's most well known clients. However, his eclectic taste and artistic expressions combined with his minimal and abstract architectural approaches are being recognized in many places globally, especially in many fashion brand stores such as Channel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Fendi. Born and educated in U.S., Peter Marino designs are influenced by two most famous designers of our modern art history Andy Warhol and Jean-Micheal Franks, that are obvious in his traditionally modern French style designs and abstract expressions. The current study introduces Peter Marine designs through analyses of Channel and Louis Vuitton. The objectives are to understand the designer and find patterns in his brand store designs that has made him now one of the most famous fashion store designers. Educational, social, and personal interest were found to strongly form his design characteristics and four main characteristics were identified by the researcher that are use of LED lightings, emphasis on vortical circulations, graphical application of brand identities, and repetition of simple geometric forms.