Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.27
no.11
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pp.1190-1197
/
2003
The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.3
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pp.280-291
/
2013
This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.27
no.5
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pp.485-495
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2003
This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.14
no.2
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pp.117-128
/
1990
The purpose of this study is to find fitness of brassiere by means of body measuring value, its variation volume, the evaluation of perceptive image, and the evaluation of the sense of wearing. The results were as follows; 1) According to comparison for body measuring value before and after wearing brassiere, bust point (B.P.) height, lower bust height, upper chest circumference, chest circumference, and bust depth are increased, and lower chest circumference, bust point breadth, shoulder middle point - B.P., B.P. -under bust, and cup horizontal girth are decreased. 2) The difference of variation volume by material is not accepted. The part above $20\%$ at variation rate is under the region of the armpit, that is, the region connected arm from the back. 3) The subjects replied that they wore the brassiere in order to compensate the breast and needed to wear it regardless of thiness and obesity. They wore the brassiere in order to dress themselves in good shape, and felt that it put pressure upon the body, while it had nothing to do with adjusting bodily temperature and gave the sense of security. 4) The estimate of the sense of wearing by material is recognized as the difference of the attention at attentive level $1\%$. The multiple factor analysis of each item in the sense of wearing showed that the items which are explained over $90\%$ by common factors are '1. Unpreasant in touch', '2. The part of edge is haggard', '15. Not to be fit'.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.20
no.4
/
pp.31-40
/
2018
The purpose of this study is to identify the body type characteristics of fashion models by comparing body dimensions and body types of fashion models with ordinary women in their 20s in Korea. To that end, the study selected 71 people, with 28 being female university students in the Seoul area and 43 professional fashion models. One hundred and fifty-seven ordinary woman were selected who ranged from 20 to 29 years old, and 588 women from the 7th Size Korea fit for research purposes. Body measurement items were selected for the direct measurement data for Size Korea, which included 20 items of body size and 10 items of calculation needed for clothing production. The results of the study were as follows. According to the analysis of fashion models and ordinary woman in their 20s, their body size showed significant differences in 25 out of 30 items. The five items that do not show significant differences are bust point-bust point, waist back length, front interscye length, hip circumference-bust circumference, and neck point to bust point to waistline-waist front length. If you integrate the results, the fashion model is much taller than the ordinary woman, has a longer lower body, and has an 8.05 head figure. Also, the fashion model found itself to be the ideal type that ordinary women prefer because of the slimmer waist and bent shape, which is more than that measured in normal women.
This study was carried out to investigate the influence of the various physiological function caused by brassiere wearing. The four experimental methods used in this study are as follows. For example, the Roentgen photographing, Body measurement by Sliding Gauge, the measurement of the Electrocardiogram and Blood Pressure. The results of the Electrocardiogram and Blood Pressure. The results of the investigation were as follows: 1. In experimental change by Sliding Gauge and Body measurement, The bust point was rised in order AB1>B2. The width of right and left bust point was decreased in order of A>B1>B2. According to, The supplementary effect of brassiere wearing was excellent in B2. 2. In the change of various organs by Roentgen photographing, The width of the chest and size of the heart were decreased in regular order of A>B1>B2. The diaphragm and the others were not showed change. 3. In the experimental result by measurement of the electrocardiogram, The interval of heart palpitation was decreased in order A>B1>B2 and the pulse frequency was similar. 4. In the experimental result by the blood pressure measurement, A had the highest blood pressure and B2 had the lowest pressure in all variables.
The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of bodysuit and to identify the wear fitness of it The methods of statistical analysis applied to the study were ANOVA and cluster analysis. The materials used in making bodysuit were Nylon/Polyurethane, lace, power net, binding tape, and hook eye. The try-on test was administered in two aspects ; (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the experimentally constructed bodysuit with those of marketing bodysuit, (2) the sensory evaluation to estimate the wear fitness in terms of appearance and motion function. The conclusions obtained are as follows ; 1. In the survey of wearing state, 52.2% of respondents had experience of wearing bodysuit. 60.6% of them responded to the item, “well-balanced body” in the question about the purpose of wearing it. 55.7% considered the item, “feel choky in the chest” as uncomfortable point in putting on bodysuit. 48.3% felt the portion of crotch drawn above in taking exercise or behaving routinely in everyday life. 2. As for the characteristics of the bodysuit design, the scooped neckline and horizontal outline without wire in lower bust was used, the adjust point being located right above the perineum point, and the length of bodysuit is as far as trochanteric point. 3. In comparing anthropometric data of the subjects, there was significant difference in the height of lower bust the distance around abdomen, and the length of bust point(right, left) between the experimentally constructed bodysuit and the marketing bodysuit. 4. Concerning the results of the try-on test in appearance, the estimates of expert panel, which were in agreement with those of subjects in mean value and composite reliability coefficient, showed that the pattern fitness of experimentally designed bodysuit was higher than that of marketing bodysuit. 5. To take try-on test in motion function, motion was classified the five steps. The results of the test showed that experimentally designed bodysuit was fitter in each steps of motion than marketing bodysuit.
Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.
The objective of this study was to provide fundamental data on somatotype for elderly women by classifying the somatotype and analysing the 3 characteristics of their somatotype. The subject were 368 women of 60~84 years old, they were analyzed indirect photography. To find out differences among the age groups, the 368 subjects were grouped into two age groups (Group 1 ; age 60 to 69, Group 2 ; aged 70 to 84). Data were analyzed using Factor analysis, Cluster analysis, duncan test and Analysis of variance. Through the factor analysis, 27 items from photometric measurements respectively. Cluster analysis was applied for classification of somatotype. The results of this study were as follows. 1. The characteristics of Elderly women's somatotype were bending of the upper-torso, fatness of the waist and abdomen, drooping of the bust and shoulder and hip. In addition, height, girth, depth and width items were decreased in their sizes respectively. 2. The characteristics of clusters were as follows. Type 1 was straight somatotype in which the plumb line through tragion, the bust depth and under bust depth region laterally. Type 2 was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back was bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had a characteristics of turning over somatotype. Type 3 was bending somatotype. Namely, this type was shorter than average and below the average fatness. Generally, the lateral view silhouette of elderly women was the straight type and changed into bending type as the age increases.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.48
no.1
/
pp.66-81
/
2024
This study analyzed body shape changes over time by comparing Size Korea's data on 50-84-year-old women from 2020 to 2021 with the same data from 2003 to 2004. In addition, the subjects of these data were divided into drop-types and also upper-body-drop-types with the body measurements for each type compared. The results showed that elderly women had grown 3-4 cm taller over the last 20 years, but the length of 'neck shoulder point to breast point' had become shorter; the bust and waist circumferences were smaller, but the thigh circumference was larger. In the body-drop type, the bust circumference, waist circumference, and waist circumference(Omphalion) increased by about 4-6cm in the order of N-type < H-type < Y-type indicating that the sideline slope of the torso must be differentiated. The upper-body-drop-type showed a 1-cm difference in height and bust circumference, but a 4 to 5-cm difference in waist circumference. In addition, thick-waist subjects aged 70 or older were classified into separate body types with the results showing that their waist circumference was greater than their breast circumference, signifying the need for different top patterns.
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