• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.789-795
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.261-268
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and wearing comfort of jumper for Korean military tank drivers through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and to provide basic data for developing its improved design. The survey was done for 477 military tank drivers and evaluation was performed using thermal manikin to measure insulation. The overall satisfaction for design of jumper for military tank driver was over 3.5(likert scale). The overall satisfaction for fitness of jumper for military tank driver was also over 3.5. The satisfactions for material was between 2.39 and 3.13 and the satisfaction for pilling property was the lowest, followed by static property and shape stability after laundering. The satisfactions for movement suitability were standing(3.81), sitting(3,38), raising hand(forward: 2.90, sideward: 3.01), respectively. In insulation evaluation of jumper for military tank drivers and outwears(jacket, jumper), the insulation of jumper for military tank drivers was lower than outwear(jumper) and same with outwear(jacket). The insulation in dynamic and still condition(without wind) of jumper for military tank driver was 0.37clo and 0.31clo, respectively. Its decreation rate in dynamic condition comparing to still condition was 59% which was lower than jacket(0.73clo) and jumper(1.15clo).

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.59-66
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.82-97
• /
• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the wearing conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a number of times and the reason of the suit wearing, and a number of suits they posses etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. The mean age of suit wearing for the first time is 22.7 years old. The younger began to wear the suits earlier than the older. 2. A number of times of suit wearing for a week is more than 5 days mostly. Being educated higher, the ratio of suit wearing is getting higher. And In the case of job, office men, sales men and men whose job of specialization are wearing suits many a time more than a graduate student and a technician. Most of tne men especially 30's$\sim$40's is wearing the suit as a working garment. 3. Most of men is wearing jacket, dress-shirt and necktie in spring and fall, dress-shirt and necktie in summer, and jacket, vest, dress-shirt and necktie in winter. 4. As a general rule, men have about 2 suits for spring/fall and winter, and about 1 suit for summer. Also male has more than 6 ready-made suits and about 1 custom suit. The last, men almost do not use the suspender with suits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.37-45
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to survey and classify the differences of the perceived fashion risk according to the apparels and accessories that consumers purchased. 243 ungraduate were separated into three groups and asked to rate 15 fashion risk concerns about each item on 5-point scale. The number of item was 103 in the total of the three group. Data were analyzed by using Mean, SO, ANOVA, Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis, Cronbach $\alpha$ with SAS program. The result of this study was high perceived risk in leather Jacket, suit, long coat, sunglasses. The most important factor of the perceived risk structure in the fashion goods was about the perceived risk perception of others. The apparels and accessories which completes the dress were classified into the same cluster. Consumers don't perceive the fashion goods independently, but they make much of the combination of other items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.96-111
• /
• 2002

The aim of this study was to suggest appropriate factors for production pattern making of women's clothing. Sample pattern designers and production patterners of 13 women's brands were individually interviewed about pattern making process and factors necessary. The results were as follows: The factors to be considered in pattern making were categorized in three groups. 1. Factors to be considered to achieve the correct use of specific materials: elasticity, shrinkage, lining and interlining 2. Factors to be considered to satisfy the design specifications: silhouette, dart distribution, collar and sleeve, trimming 3. Factors to be considered for better sewing quality: skillfulness of the sewer, sewing methods and sewing equipment. 4. Suggestions were made for appropriate factors. A focus-group-interview in pattern design has been interviewed to verify the suggested factors. The factors were presented as a guide to develop the production pattern. 5. For better usage of the factors, standardization were suggested for making process with necessary factors for jacket, skirt.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.49-56
• /
• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.8-21
• /
• 2005

The purpose at this study was to analyze and to position the clothing images at women's formal wear brands carried by at least two department stores in Daejon, for providing data for a basic marketing strategy for fashion manufacturers and distributors. The results tram the study were as tallows; The brand that showed the highest classic image was 'BCBG'(83.6%), the brand that showed the highest feminine image was 'Obzee' (80.2%), the brand that showed the highest character image was 'Doho' (84.1%), and the brand that showed the highest mannish image was 'F.Station' (64.1%). On the brands image positioning map, brands, such as 'Deco', 'Mine', 'Time', and 'Anne Klein', lying on or near the point of intersection (where the vertical and horizontal axes meet) showed 4 types. They were 'smart & chic cluster', 'charming & luxury cluster', 'character elegance cluster', and 'sportive elegance cluster' that showed compound images. These clusters would be differentiated tram young casual lines by emphasizing the brands' shape and cut, higher quality fabrics and materials, and elegant and graceful colors. Analysis of target ages and tweed jacket prices for brands carried by at least two department stores showed that the target was between 23 and 50, and that the prices range from 198,000 won to 460,000 won.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.45-59
• /
• 1997

This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.