• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.247-257
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• 2015

This study conducted a questionnaire survey on the real condition of clothing with focus on related to general motorcycle wear and motorcycle jacket targeting a quick service carrier affiliated with a quick service business in Seoul. In addition, this study is aimed at providing basic data on developing the motorcycle jacket, whose motional flexibility, safety and functionality are excellent, exclusively for a quick service carrier by grasping inconveniences and problems and deducting improvements on the basis of the questionnaire survey. This study, on the basis of the questionnaire survey results, grasped the general part related to quick service and motorcycle wear, such as their general matters, whether they were having on the motorcycle wear in the middle of doing business, whether it's necessary to wear the motorcycle wear, where they had a driving accident, and kinds of external injuries, etc. From the gathered results of analysis of the collected questionnaires, the item which got the lowest satisfaction was the inconvenience from the chafed front neck when driving. Besides, the results showed carriers' complaints like the elbow part felt tight, discomfort in the horizontal movement of the shoulders or back, and wind admission in between zippers. In addition, the respondents showed complaints in the item about hygroscopic property and air permeability at the armpits and back part, and 5 items about material flexibility, wind shielding property, living water repellency, weighty sensation, and night visibility were found to be low in respondents' satisfaction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.265-275
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.85-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for obese women in 20s and 30s, providing a good fit and appearance. The results were as follows: among 3 kinds of patterns collected in order to develop a jacket pattern to fit the average body of an obese woman in 20s and 30s, a business-type pattern(which was comparatively evaluated as a good fit) was worn and revised so as to design a final research pattern with proper fitness and a good shape. The biggest problem of the existing pattern was may overall spares, especially many spares of bust size, waist measurement, hip circumference, all of which makes a bad appearance. Considering the results of a survey which indicates that young obese women like tight-fitting clothes, bust size was decreased from 8 cm to 6 cm, and their waist measurements were bigger compared to other age groups, so a total of 1.1 cm(with 0.3 cm in the front, back side, and 0.5 cm in the back waist) was decreased. The hip circumference was decreased by 2 cm from H/2+4 to H/2+2 cm, the quantity of front deflection was established as 1.5 cm in order to compensate for the coming off of the front side caused by the fat on the stomach.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.16-27
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• 2010

Business Casual has been launched because of 'Friday Wear' in the 1990s and in Korea, the business casual has been settled under the influence of the five-day work week. The idea of business casual is that 'Business' and 'Casual wear' are combined. It is the attire that people should wear the jacket for formality and people can wear both on or off duty. As a result of the analysis, based on this, of the characteristics of men's business casual appeared in Seoul collections from 2009 till now, they can be classified in 'Classic & Traditional business casual', 'Modern business casual', 'Natural business casual', 'Feminine business casual' and 'Sporty business casual'. As a result of the analysis of the design characteristics of the Korean men's business casual and the trend, based on the content of the analysis of Seoul Collection, 'Classical Classic & the Traditional', 'Modern of the Contemporary design', 'Natural of the Natural design' and 'the Sporty business casual of the Separate Coordination' including jeans, have presented themselves. Also, as a result of the analysis of Korean business men's business casual according to the classification of the design characteristics in Chapter III, 'Classic & Traditional business casual' account for the majority and then 'Sporty', 'Modern' and 'Natural business casual' account for the rest in order. 'Feminine business casual' hasn't presented itself. As a result of the comparative analysis of the design characteristics in Chapter III & IV, Korean business men's business casual has been concentrated on 'Classical & Traditional' and the design characteristics have not appeared in variety. There has been no such audacious attempt, and items, the characteristics of coordination, colors and materials are not in variety compared to the collection. Meanwhile, as a result of the subsistent characteristics of Koran business men's business casual, the characteristics of business men's business casual can be said to represent themselves in "Separate Coordination with the previous items of formal suits".