• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.132-142
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• 2010

The purpose of this case study was to design development of Working Uniform in 10 enterprises which were located in Changwon national industrial complex. The 10 enterprises were small-medium business in machinery. For finding actual conditions and preferences by employers, interview with employers was accomplished and their uniforms were collected. The uniforms were analyzed by Design elements ; shapes, colors, details. From the results, working uniforms were designed by each enterprise. The design was suggested CAD work sheets and send to each enterprise. After discussion and correction, design were made in fabric. Total 50 items(winter jacket and pants, spring & fall jacket and pants and summer T-shirts) were made by P/C, P/A and polyester coolon materials. The new designs have worn by the enterprises, now. This case study could be one of academic - industrial relationship cooperation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.112-120
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.118-126
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• 2001

The purpose of this study, which is related with local women's jacket Manufacturing companies in Seoul and Kyeong-Ki areas, is for the research of general problems, badness in those companies, noticing products' quality level, and full solutions of luxurious sewing technology and high quality products. The results of this study are as follows. 1. Most women's jacket manufacturing companies are poor and producing system is on a changing trend to the pair system. 2. A wage level of inspectors are low compared with working experiences and working period is short compared with working experiences. So, the separation rate was high. 3. The inspection form is full style, but some companies are just inspecting samples or frequent check. 4. Insperation method is highly at the rate of self-inspection and head office inspection. There are inspects in their factories and companies, but some companies don't. 5. There are lots of badness styles such as shrinking of fabric, contaminating of product, dying of fabric, pressing. 6. A work standard, workers' technical education, and giving purposes to workers are demanded for avoiding of products badness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.103-115
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• 2019

In this study, we provided examples of light emitting diodes (LEDS) in everyday sportswear and confirmed their usefulness to provide functionality, aesthetics, and entertainment. One type of sports jacket and one set of sportswear were designed and manufactured using LEDs and made available to the general public for use in daily life to provide functionality, aesthetics, and entertainment. To generate digital images, a textural design of a circuit image was developed and applied, and the LEDs were placed on the developed textile in an attempt to merge the LEDs with the design. The product was equipped with a tilt sensor and produced a randomly lighted jacket with LEDs that adjusted according to movement. The LEDs turned on in the desired location by lifting the arm during night sports activities. The tricolor of NEO PIXEL LEDs lit randomly and its rhythmical design could be maximized when moving or exercising outdoors, and also for entertainment. The role of creating interest for lively and unexpected pleasures and the aesthetic beauty of LED lights were also obtained. There was no inconvenience or restriction of movement by LEDs or internal structures using the hot-melting technique, and the removable attachment of the device made it easier to wash.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.13-20
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• 1998

Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

This research chose 135 environmental cleaners in Busan Metropolitan City as subjects. First, the reality of wearing their safety jackets was investigated. Next, visual evaluation of the reflexive function of the current safety jackets was made. Then, based on the above results and the subsequent improvement proposal, the final product, the research costume, was made. 1. Based on the investigation of the wearing reality of safety jackets and the visual evaluation results of the reflexive function, an improvement proposal was made. As cleaners are usually seen sidewise on the roads and lateral luminosity is rather low, this aspect was compensated on the part of a jacket. Also, the reflexive belt used the diagram of ${\Delta}$ to improve visual effects. 2. As the lower body held the accident frequency of 45.0%, the sides of pants had the reflexive belt to increase visibility. 3. In consideration of the mutual effects between the background cloth and general reflexive width, the same width (5cm) of the reflexive belt as that of Type A was adopted.