• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.117-138
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• 1998

This study can be divied into three major sections: 1. Background on the 1980s : The 1980s can be characterized as a era of rising expectations over the quality of life. Interest in art, history, culture, and new technology increased to appeal to a greater audience. In fashion, these changes led to greater focus on quality and unique stylishness as fashion represented a medium through which luxury and refined tastes could be expressed. 2. Textile Trends of the 80s Divided into 4 Periods : The period of 1980-82 saw the mixture of natural lines with constructive lines. The textiles used in fashions in this period can be characterized by natural materials, mannish materials of the 1950s, feminine materials of the 1920s and 30s, and spoty materials of the 1960s. The period of 1983-85 was an avante garde period which used rustic avante-garde materials and art craft materials. The period of 1986-87 can be described as minimalistic and neo-classical which incorporated materials which represents a metropolitan feel, retro decorative materials and sporty, futuristic mat-erials. Lastly, the period of 1988-89 produced ethnic and natural fashions which relied on traditional British materials, country elegant and innocent look fabrics, ethinic and ecology-minded materials, in addition to comfortable and sports casual materials. 3. Characteristrics and methods of expression for textiles in the 1980s, : In the 1980s, the development of textiles have can be divided into 4 distinct patterns: decorative materials, sporty materials. In generals textiles have increased in their decorative nature-especially decoration by texure. Textile have also incorporated the mixture of contrasting themes in order to create new fabrics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.87-99
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.335-348
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• 2020

This study examines the cultural differences in Korea and the United Kingdom, and how they affect consumer complaint behavior(CCB). Technological advances allow consumers to easily access information anywhere in the world using the internet thus they demand even higher expectations from the sellers. Consumers from different cultural backgrounds, especially the millennial generation, have different ways of expressing a dissatisfying shopping experience. For this comparative study, in-depth interviews were conducted based on the methodology set by grounded theory. The results of the axial coding produced by recombining the data from open coding were visualized as a paradigm model. The main phenomenon of attitude towards complaining was formed following the causal conditions of dissatisfaction that occurred after purchasing fashion products online. The contextual condition, which is the cultural factors, affects the formation of the attitude towards complaining; and the intervening conditions, which are personal value and amplifications of dissatisfaction, had a moderating effect between the causal condition and the main phenomenon. Complaining costs, the likelihood of successful complaint, attribution, and the importance of the product were the determinants of the complaining behavior after the attitude towards complaining was formed. As a result, there were three classifications of consumer complaining behavior: no action, private action, and public action. This research will serve as a guide for online companies that wish to enter the UK fashion industry with a competitive edge.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 21세기 패션컬렉션에 나타난 모즈 룩에 대한 다양한 미학적 고찰을 통해 사회문화적 배경과 시대정신에 따라 한 시대의 미의식이 패션에 반영되는 특성을 분석하여 패션의 문화적 역할을 재인식하고자 하는 것이다. 연구방법은 모즈와 모즈 룩에 대한 문헌고찰과 2001년부터 2006년까지의 패션잡지에 나타난 모즈 룩의 사진 168건의 자료를 통한 실증적 분석을 하였다. 분석결과, 21세기 패션에서의 모즈 룩은 미니멀 스타일, 스포츠 캐주얼 스타일, 빈티지 스타일, 댄디 & 앤드로지너스 스타일로 유형화할 수 있었다. 이처럼 모즈 룩은 젊음, 발랄함, 새로움 등의 감성과 절충될 뿐만 아니라 스포츠 룩 그리고 스트리트 패션에까지 나타남으로써 대중의 기호에 맞는 디자인 개발 및 새로운 미래 패션영감에 계속 반영 될 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.93-108
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• 2008

This study held physical measurement for male subjects in their 20s living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China, showing the biggest market in men's clothes. Their representative lower body types with average shapes and sizes were chosen so as to develop men's slacks patterns with better dimension fitness. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Slacks patterns were made based on the mean measurement values of 5 people, who were closest to the representative body types, from the index*absolute group of 47 people. The dimensions of application for slacks pattern-making were 77cm(omphalion waist circumference), 91cm(hip circumference), and 103cm(slacks length). 2. For the comparison of high-fitness and more-room pattern dimensions, 5 styles of slacks were made: Korean, Chinese, British, Japanese, and industrial. In the dressing fitness tests, industrial patterns had excellent appearance and Japanese ones had the best function. 3. Based on the analysis results of slacks pattern comparison, the target slacks were experimentally made and received superior evaluation points to the compared slacks patterns in two times of evaluation for appearance and function. 4. The final slacks pattern in this research had the following dimensions: front waist circumference: W(1-2cm with room included)/4-1cm, back waist circumference: W/4+1cm, front hip circumference: H(9$\sim$10cm with room included)/4-1cm, back hip circumference: H/4+1cm, crotch length: H/4-1.5cm, hip length: crotch length-H/12, front crotch extension: H/16-1.5cm, back crotch extension: H/8+3cm, knee line: 33cm below crotch line, front tuck amount: 4cm, back dart amount: 2.5cm(center) and 1.5cm(side), and back dart length: 10cm (center) and 6cm(side).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.47-58
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• 2018

The Belgian textile wallcovering has the following background. The unique oceanic climate is optimized for flax. Beginning in the thirteenth century, British wool was produced for export to Britain or neighboring countries. Since the 15th century, Flemish paintings were influenced by color implementations, and these colors have influenced the developments of tapestry and art. Since that time, tapestry and paintings combined with paper technologies and Oriental civilizations, such as silk, that had been developed through trade ports, have been transformed into the form of current wallcoverings. Belgium produces the highest quality textile wallcovering using natural materials i.e., a combination of irregular and modern materials, and the implementation of different colors. The Belgian textile wallcovering is also a good representation of nature at the Heimtextil 2018, It provides a wide range of colors while retaining the best styles for wallcoverings in Belgium. The characteristics of Belgian wall coverings are: First, the high proportion of achromatic colors, especially the white ones, are analyzed for current trends. Second, it expresses the characteristics of materials by using only one material. This not only shows a high level of understanding of natural materials, but also shows a high level of development in terms of processing technology. Thirdly, linen was made into a formative expression using wrinkle processing and by printing geometric patterns, the rough texture of natural materials was expressed in harmony with modern patterns.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the power images in the style of a leader: through the focus on the portrait of Henry VIII. Study methods on the literature concerning viewpoints of power and image in the early modern age and the subjects of power are being used for theoretical backgrounds; and the visual data from National Portrait Gallery, British Library and the internet are used for exploratory studies. The results of this study are as follows. First, from the style of Henry VIII who represented the image of political power, the modern political phenomenon can be defined. Such phenomenon which displays images of political leaders from the study indicate an effective strategy. Second, the religious, a diplomatic representation for the style of Henry VIII powers, such as costume style and somatic visual images, represents the dignity and power by delivering visible internal attributes. Thus, the role model recognized by the society and the public's perception of leadership style affects the acknowledgement and belief by the people.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.