• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.96-103
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• 1990

A local Iribarren number is suggested for the universal use of breaker type classification, which relates the bed slope to the wave steepness, both being given from the breaking point. The existing Iribarren number uses the wave length at an offshore point, while the local Iribarren number uses the wave length at the breaking point so that it can imply any influences due to current interaction and diffraction. The modified form of Miche's breaking criterion includes 고 breaking parameter which may be related to the local Iribarren number. Using the modifiedform of Miche's criterion with the local Iribarren number, the inclusion of Doppler effect seems to describe well the wave breaking mechanism in a current-interacted flow on a sloping beach without any additional effects implemented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.227-234
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• 2012

This paper describes the remote monitoring of breaking ocean waves generated by Typhoon Nabi, whose name means butterfly in Korean, using a marine X-band radar in the Yongho Man, Busan, Korea. The basic purpose of this study is to investigate the dynamic behavior and to estimate the periods of breaking waves across the surf zone from radar image sequences. In these experiments, the land-based radar system imaged the inshore zone of three miles from the coastline to a isobath of 30 meters. The wave period and the dominant wave direction for breaking ocean waves extracted directly from radar image sequences were 157.4 meters and 298 degrees, respectively. However, the result calculated quantitatively by the continuous wavelet transform (CWT) showed that the period of breaking waves was 154.3 meters. The average difference in breaking wave periods between the value extracted by using EBRL (electronic bearing and range line) of radar and the calculated value by CWT was 3.1 meters, showing that the CWT method is also accurate. These results suggest that a marine X-band radar system is a viable method of monitoring the breaking ocean waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.43-47
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• 2009

This paper compares theoretical wave profile and particle kinematics with experimental results generated by a 2 D wave tank. Particle velocity fields of compound waves were acquired using a PIV technique. Synchronization was applied to acquire images of the wave fields, and the time gap between these images was controlled by the user. This technique was applied to investigate the wave breaking mechanism, and the wave profile and velocity distribution in a wave breaking field was obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.157-163
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• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• Journal of the Institute of Convergence Signal Processing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.122-127
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• 2021

Flow features near the ship bow such as wave breaking, small scale phenomena have been studied using numerical methods. In this study, the bow shaped wedge was adopted which is from previous paper [1, 2] and the conditions of simulation were Re = 1.64 × 10⁵) and Fr = 2.93. Star CCM+, one of the commercial CFD programs has been used for the simulations. Simulation results such as wave profiles near the ship bow, shape of plunging jet, air entrainment, and wave breaking process have been compared with previous experimental and numerical studies. Overall results showed good agreements with previous studies. Profiles of bow waves showed that overturning jet has been created and broken along the wedge. Plunging wave breaking has been observed along the wedge and four components of plunging wave breaking process were shown. It is confirmed that velocity near the overturing jet significantly increased during plunging wave breaking.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.50-61
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• 1996

The breaking phenomenon of regular periodic waves generated by a numerical wave maker is simulated by finite-difference method which can cope with strong interface motions. The air and water flows are simultaneously solved in the time-marching solution procedure for the Navier-Stokes equation. A density-function technique is devised for the implemenation of the interface conditions. The accuracy is examined and applied to the simulation of two-dimensional breaking phenomena of periodic gravity waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.406-418
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• 2015

The present modified FUNWAVE-TVD model, which is a modification to its previous version 2.1, is applied to solitary wave propagation and is tested against the experiments of Vincent and Briggs(1989) and Luth et al.(1994). The eddy viscosity breaking scheme is used for comparison with the existing study in the case of breaking experiment. The symmetry of wave-induced current is maintained when the modified model is employed to Vincent and Briggs(1989) breaking experiment, but the symmetry of wave-induced current in previous model is not maintained. A better agreement with the breaking experimental data is obtained in the modified model using eddy viscosity breaking scheme than the shock capturing breaking scheme using nonlinear shallow water equation. For comparison with the schemes in the model, the fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme by Erduran et al.(2005) and the third order MUSCL-TVD scheme using minmod limiter is applied, and the numerical solutions of solitary wave are compared.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.207-213
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• 2003

This study is to numerically investigate the characteristics of wave energy variations propagating over impermeable submerged breakwaters with irregular waves. Two-dimensional numerical wave flume based on the VOF method was used. VOF method is the most efficient capable of simulating free surfaces including wave breaking. From the computed frequency spectrum results, wave breaking play important role in ability of the submerged breakwaters to dissipate incident wave energy. In case of occurring wave breaking, our analysis shows that wave energy moves to short wave period on one-row impermeable submerged breakwater's lee side and is widely distributed not having peak period on two- row impermeable submerged breakwater's lee side.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.