Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.8
no.1
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pp.81-96
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2006
This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affected to clothing change in 1650-1900 and to examine the features of men's necktie in the western art. For this study, information about historic neckwear is obtained from the visual evidence of painted or engraved portraits, contemporary written sources. The covered area of this study was Europe mainly England and France. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Investigating the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through 1650-1900 and analysis of men's clothing and appearance. 2. Finding the changing characteristics of neckties including it's different types, shapes, knots, colors and materials and analyzing similarities and differences of neckties by the times. 3. Examining necktie as one of important and representative icons of male gender identity. The results of the study was as follows: 1. In 1660-1900, men's fashion was simplified in color and detail due to the influence of practical Puritanism and matured civil culture. And British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and get popularity. 2. In 1650-1720, there were band, cravat and steinkirk. And expecially cravatier, a expert custodian of cravats, was appeared in that period. In 1720-1800, there were stock, solitaire and cravat. In 1800-1850, neckwear were popularized and got various sizes and types up to shape and size of chemise collars. Black stock, scarf cravat and shawl cravat were popular and terms of 'necktie' were used for an certain neckcloth shape. And abundant literature for necktie were published thanks to the development of printing technology in that period. In 1851-1900, the leady-made neckties were spreaded and there were changes in shape, length, knot of necktie up to V-zone formed with shirt's collars and vest types. Neckwear was gradually evolving through four distinct styles, bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four-in-hand. 3. After the mid-l7th Century, as civil culture matured and splendid and extravagant colorful men's wear disappeared, British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and got popularity. The necktie become an essential ornamental accessory of men's fashion and one of important and representative icons of male gender identity.
Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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v.56
no.3
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pp.223-229
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2020
We analyzed the cutting mechanism of laver harvesting machine in the sea area near Gooam Port in Goheung, Jeollanam-do, and investigated the change and efficiency of laver collecting operation in the working ship. The laver working ship slides uniformly from the bow to the upper part of the laver collecting machine on the deck and cuts the wet laver attached to the bottom of the net at the blade of the havesting machine. The laver farming net, which was loaded with laver turrets on the deck by gravity and collected primitives, consisted of a ship structure that led to the stern side and into the sea. The working ship operation is in harvesting process while driving in a S-shape that is separated by one space to efficiently collect the laver net. During laver working ship operation, the speed was 0.51 m/s in the access stage, 0.56 m/s in the havesting stage, and 0.52 m/s in the exit stage. Considering the cutting edge life and production efficiency of the laver harvesting machine, it is appropriate to harvest 1.15 to 1.26 kg/rpm by operating at a rotational speed of about 700 to 800 rpm rather than forcibly harvesting the product at high speed. On the deck of the working ship, 959.7 kg of starboard and 1048.7 kg of center were 964.7 kg of port side. Based on the starboard, 9.3% of the central part and 0.5% of the port side appeared. The reason for this was due to the difference in harvest time according to the turning direction of the working ship.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the kinematical variables involved in two types of service motion in tennis pinpoint and platform stance, to find the fastest serving method. Seven skilled high school tennis players participated, and the kinematics were recorded by the Vicon motion analysis system. For the gathering and analysis of the data workstation, bodybuilder and polygon were used. During the back swing for the pinpoint stance, as the back leg moves forward the COM and the racquet moves more, thus taking 0.04 seconds longer than the platform stance. The body of the subject takes a bow-shape as the subject's foot moves back and their hip moves forward. This movement enables the subject to create more power during the backswing to impact. It also increases the spread of the COM racquet and the serve speed is increase. As there is no forward movement of the foot during the backswing of the platform stance, the COM and the racquet move less and thus the time required is shorter than that for the pinpoint stance by 0.04seconds. Similarly, the time spent creating the power for the serve is shortened, the COM racquet is narrower and the speed is lessened. However, the advantage of this serve is that it increases the stability.
Photographic measurement was first made with the subjects of 190 males in their 20s residing in the Ningbo area, Zhejiang Province in China. In this second report, lower body shapes were classified and discriminated by using indirect measurement, measurement items, and lower body analysis. The following sums up the research: 1. The subjects were $8.85^{\circ}$ (hip breadth angle), $1.58^{\circ}$ (abdomen upper angle), $11.80^{\circ}$ (hip upper angle), and $5.12^{\circ}$ (lateral lower body posture angle). 2. The subjects of Chinese males in their 20s showed three types of lower bodies: Bow Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body Type (30.5%)-gap between legs, curve waist-hip contour, average abdomen-hip profile, and lateral lower body posture were slightly slanted forward. Adjacent Straight Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body Type (35.8%)-adjacent straight between legs, curve waist-hip contour, slim abdomen-hip profile, and lateral lower body posture were slightly slanted forward. Balance Legs & Large Slant of Lateral Lower Body Type (33.7%)-average between legs, straight waist-hip contour, protruding hip profile, and lateral lower body posture were largely slanted forward. 3. Eight useful variables for the categorization of the subjects' lower body types were chosen through stepwise discriminant analysis, and the hit ratio of discrimination was 97.9%.
Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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v.23
no.4
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pp.432-438
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2017
The primary objective of the current work was to develop a standardized retrofit hull form capable of saving energy based on existing vessels. The bow shape of existing vessels was investigated, giving consideration to design draft and speed. Resistance performances were assessed for existing vessels according to operating conditions. Commercial CFD codes and model test materials were used for assessment of effective power. Three retrofit hull forms with minimum resistance were selected given real operating conditions. These vessels were named after customized ready-made hull forms to enable ship owners to make easier choices. The effective power of each vessel was estimated under real operating conditions. Subjects were operated with the lowest draft, and performance for retrofit No. 3 showed an 11-16% improvement in effective power at low speed ranges of 16-18 knots compared to existing vessels. When operated with a middle draft, performance for retrofit No. 3 showed a 6-11% improvement in effective power at low speed ranges compared to existing vessels. When operated with the highest draft, performance for all vessels showed little difference in effective power.
Kim, Jae-hyeong;Lee, Sang-eui;Park, Joo-Shin;Lee, Gyeong-Woo;Seo, Kwang-Cheol
Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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v.26
no.4
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pp.403-411
/
2020
This paper discusses the main findings of the development of the twin-hull Car ferry for island freight and passenger transport. The final model had a 19 m wide beam to create enough space for cars on the deck area and thus, enhance the economic feasibility in the market. The vessel had a V-shape with a bulbous bow to minimize the wave-making resistance and the hydrodynamic performance of the ship was verified through computational fluid dynamics. Multi-objective optimization problems of Pareto simulated annealing were used to achieve a weight reduction of approximately 3.9 % and reduce the manufacturing cost. The main results obtained in this study are expected to be useful to engineers and professionals in related industries interested in research on twin catamaran.
Kim, Ji-Seok;Park, Jeong-Bin;Kim, Yun-Mi;Ahn, Sung-Hoon;Sun, Hee-Young;Kim, Kyung-Hoon;Song, Tae-Won
International Journal of Precision Engineering and Manufacturing
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v.9
no.1
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pp.39-46
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2008
The end plates of fuel cell assemblies are used to fasten the inner stacks, reduce the contact pressure, and provide a seal between Membrane-Electrode Assemblies (MEAs). They therefore require sufficient mechanical strength to withstand the tightening pressure, light weight to obtain high energy densities, and stable chemical/electrochemical properties, as well as provide electrical insulation. The design criteria for end plates can be divided into three parts: the material, connecting method, and shape. In the past, end plates were made from metals such as aluminum, titanium, and stainless steel alloys, but due to corrosion problems, thermal losses, and their excessive weight, alternative materials such as plastics have been considered. Composite materials consisting of combinations of two or more materials have also been proposed for end plates to enhance their mechanical strength. Tie-rods have been traditionally used to connect end plates, but since the number of connecting parts has increased, resulting in assembly difficulties, new types of connectors have been contemplated. Ideas such as adding reinforcement or flat plates, or using bands or boxes to replace tie-rods have been proposed. Typical end plates are rectangular or cylindrical solid plates. To minimize the weight and provide a uniform pressure distribution, new concepts such as ribbed-, bomb-, or bow-shaped plates have been considered. Even though end plates were not an issue in fuel cell system designs in the past, they now provide a great challenge for designers. Changes in the materials, connecting methods, and shapes of an end plate allow us to achieve lighter, stronger end plates, resulting in more efficient fuel cell systems.
Huang, Zhi;Jiang, Li-Zhong;Chen, Y. Frank;Luo, Yao;Zhou, Wang-Bao
Steel and Composite Structures
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v.26
no.6
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pp.719-731
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2018
Concrete filled steel tubular (CFST) laced columns have been widely used in high rise buildings in China. Compared to solid-web columns, this type of columns has a larger cross-section with less weight. In this paper, four concrete filled steel tubular laced columns consisting of 4 main steel-concrete tubes were tested under cyclic loading. Hysteresis and failure mechanisms were studied based on the results from the lateral cyclic loading tests. The influence of each design parameter on restoring forces was investigated, including axial compression ratio, slenderness ratio, and the size of lacing tubes. The test results show that all specimens fail in compression-bending-shear and/or compression-bending mode. Overall, the hysteresis curves appear in a full bow shape, indicating that the laced columns have a good seismic performance. The bearing capacity of the columns decreases with the increasing slenderness ratio, while increases with an increasing axial compression ratio. For the columns with a smaller axial compression ratio (< 0.3), their ductility is increased. Furthermore, with the increasing slenderness ratio, the yield displacement increases, the bending failure characteristic is more obvious, and the hysteretic loops become stouter. The results obtained from the numerical analyses were compared with the experimental results. It was found that the numerical analysis results agree well with the experimental results.
As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.
This study held human measurement for 200 male subjects in their twenties in full age living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China. Their lower body types were classified and grouped according to shapes and sizes. Consequently, representative body type reflecting shapes, sizes, and characteristics were chosen and presented with their measurement values to be used as the basic data for slacks pattern making and fitness evaluation. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Homogeneity analysis was given to determine the correspondence relationships among index types, indirect types, and size types. Index Type 1 (H-Round), Indirect Type 2 (Adjacent Straight Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 1 (Medium-Thick) were correlated; Index Type 2 (A-Trapezoid), Indirect Type 1 (Bow Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 3 (Small-Slim) were corresponded; Index Type 3 (A-Balance), Indirect Type 3 (Balance Legs & Large Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 2 (Tall-Normal) were mutually related. 2. Mahalanobis distance based on each shape factor (index or indirect) and size factor (absolute) was obtained, while an index-absolute representative body type group (47 people, 24.4%) and an indirect-absolute representative body type group (45 people, 23.7%) were chosen, each reflecting shapes, sizes, and characteristics. 3. The representative body type group of lower body shapes of Chinese males in their 20s had average measurement values, such as 169.15cm (stature), 73.32cm (waist circumference), 75.76cm (omphalion waist circumference), 91.08cm (hip circumference), 106.02cm (outside leg length), 53.96cm (thigh circumference), and 74.42cm (crotch length).
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