• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2005

For the simulation of tsunami propagation an active dispersion-correction two-dimensional finite element model has been developed based on a shallow-water wave equation. This model employs an arbitrary triangular mesh and an explicit time integration scheme. However, the physical dispersion effects as included in the Boussinesq equations can be taken into account in the computation. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme developed in this study is verified through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new scheme with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves. As a result, the present model is shown to be considerably accurate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.314-326
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• 2014

On 31 March 2007, the abnormal wave occurred along the western coast of Korea. In order to investigate the generation mechanism of abnormal waves and to understand the amplification process of the abnormal waves, the observed data were analyzed and one-dimensional numerical model experiments were performed by using both the linear shallow water equation and the linear Boussinesq equation models. Various types of pressure jump for the abnormal waves previously proposed by other researchers were reviewed. As a result, it was not possible to reproduce the abnormal waves from the previously proposed pressure jumps. In this study, we proposed a new form of pressure jump, and numerical simulations were performed in order to check the validity of the proposed pressure jump. The numerical results showed that the calculated period of abnormal waves and the maximum water elevations agreed reasonably well with those of the observations.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.103-112
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• 2000

Early efforts to model wave transformation from offshore to inshore were based on the ray theory which accounts for wave refraction due to changes in bathymetry and the diffraction effects were ignored. Prediction of nearshore waves with the combined effects of refraction and diffraction as well as reflection has taken a new dimension with the use of the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equation. (omitted)

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.201-226
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• 2020

A systematic numerical comparative study of the performance of semicircular and rectangular submerged breakwaters interacting with solitary waves is the basis of this paper. To accomplish this task, Nwogu's extended Boussinesq model equations are employed to simulate the interaction of the wave with breakwaters. The finite difference technique has been used to discretize the spatial terms while a fourth-order predictor-corrector method is employed for time discretization in our numerical model. The proposed computational scheme uses a staggered-grid system where the first-order spatial derivatives have been discretized with fourth-order accuracy. For validation purposes, five test cases are considered and numerical results have been successfully compared with the existing analytical and experimental results. The performances of the rectangular and semicircular breakwaters have been examined in terms of the wave reflection, transmission, and dissipation coefficients (RTD coefficients) denoted by K_R, K_T, K_D. The latter coefficient K_D emerges due to the non-energy conserving K_R and K_T. Our computational results and graphical illustrations show that the rectangular breakwater has higher reflection coefficients than semicircular breakwater for a fixed crest height, but as the wave height increases, the two reflection coefficients approach each other. un the other hand, the rectangular breakwater has larger dissipation coefficients compared to that of the semicircular breakwater and the difference between them increases as the height of the crest increases. However, the transmission coefficient for the semicircular breakwater is greater than that of the rectangular breakwater and the difference in their transmission coefficients increases with the crest height. Quantitatively, for rectangular breakwaters the reflection coefficients K_R are 5-15% higher while the diffusion coefficients K_D are 3-23% higher than that for the semicircular breakwaters, respectively. The transmission coefficients K_T for rectangular breakwater shows the better performance up to 2.47% than that for the semicircular breakwaters. Based on our computational results, one may conclude that the rectangular breakwater has a better overall performance than the semicircular breakwater. Although the model equations are non-dissipative, the non-energy conserving transmission and reflection coefficients due to wave-breakwater interactions lead to dissipation type contribution.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.473-480
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• 2012

A two-dimensional depth-integrated hydrodynamic and a depth-averaged passive scalar transport models were developed by using a Compact Finite Volume Method (CFVM) which can assure a higher order accuracy. A typical wave current interaction experimental data set was compared with the computed results by the proposed CFVM model, and resonable agreements were observed from the comparisons. One and two dimensional scalar advection tests were conducted, and very close agreements were observed with very little numerical diffusion. Finally, a turbulent mixing simulation was done in an open channel flow, and a reasonable similarity with LES data was observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.434-445
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• 2020

In this study, the minimization of harbor oscillation using permeable breakwater was applied to the actual harbor and investigated an effect of minimization by computer simulation in order to take into account the water quality problems and measures of harbor oscillation by infragravity waves at the same time. The study site is Mukho harbor located at East coast of Korea that harbor oscillation has been occurred frequently. The infragravity waves obtained by analyzing the observed field data for five years focused on the distribution between wave periods of 40 s and 70 s and wave heights in less than 0.1 m was 94% of analyzing data. The target wave periods was 68.0 s. The most effective method of minimization of harbor oscillation by infragravity waves was to install a detached permeable breakwater with transmission coefficient of 0.3 on the outside harbor and replace some area of the vertical wall in the harbor with wave energy dissipating structure to achieve a reflectivity of 0.9 or less. The amplitude reduction rate of this method shown in 27.4%. And the effect of the difference in transmission coefficient of permeable breakwater on the reduction rate of the amplitude was not significant.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.645-655
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• 2022

Recently rip currents are frequently observed in the summer at the beaches located along the East Sea coast. To understand the generation types of rip currents occurred at the Ease Sea beaches, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topographies of the Sokcho, Naksan, Gyeongpo, Mangsang beaches were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The offshore and nearshore topographically-controlled rip currents and the transient rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities involving the phase interaction effects. This study looked over the generation types of rip currents to occur at the beaches with complicated field bathymetries.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.247-257
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• 2022

In order to investigate the generations of rip currents modulated with the tidal elevations at a mega-tidal beach at the West Sea coast, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topography of the Daecheon beach were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The mega-tidal coast includes rocky outcrops (i.e., reefs) lying over or under the water surface according to the tidal elevations in the offshore and nearshore bathymetry. The offshore topographically-controlled rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities transformed by the tide-modulated topography. This study addressed the generation types of rip currents to occur at the mega-tidal coast with the tide-modulated outcrops and reefs.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 2017

Most of the short period waves are blocked by the breakwaters when the short period irregular waves propagate into the ports. However, nonlinear irregular wave numerical experiments show that the long waves generated by the nonlinear interaction is predominant in the port. Seiches phenomenon in Geumjin Fishing Port is very similar to 60 and 300 second harbor oscillations. By arranging the inner breakwater of the proper length in the inside of the port, it is possible to effectively reduce seiches, as well as the short-period wave, and significantly improve the harbor tranquility. In the case of rectangular basin type such as the Geumjin Fishing Port, the multi-directional irregular wave numerical model should be used for the investigation and countermeasures for the harbor tranquility.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.83-97
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• 2021

The submerged U-shape breakwater interaction with the solitary wave is simulated by the Boussinesq equations using the finite-difference scheme. The wave reflection, transmission, and dissipation (RTD) coefficients are used to investigate the U-shape breakwater's performance for different crest width, Lc1, and indent breakwater height, du. The results show that the submerged breakwater performance for a set of U-shape breakwater with the same cross-section area is related to the length of submerged breakwater crest, Lc1, and the distance between the crests, Lc2 (or the height of du). The breakwater has the maximum performance when the crest length is larger, and at the same time, the distance between them increases. Changing the Lc1 and du of the U-shape breakwaters result in a significant change in the RTD coefficients. Comparison of the U-shape breakwater, having the best performance, with the averaged RTD values shows that the transmission coefficients, Kt, has a better performance of up to 4% in comparison to other breakwaters. Also, the reflection coefficients KR and the diffusion coefficients, Kd shows a better performance of about 30% and 55% on average, respectively. However, the model governing equations are non-dissipative. The non-energy conserving of the transmission and reflection coefficients due to wave and breakwater interaction results in dissipation type contribution. The U-shape breakwater with the best performance is compared with the rectangular breakwater with the same cross-section area to investigate the economic advantages of the U-shape breakwater. The transmission coefficients, Kt, of the U-shape breakwater shows a better performance of 5% higher than the rectangular one. The reflection coefficient, KR, is 60% lower for U-shape in comparison to rectangular one; however, the diffusion coefficients, Kd, of U-shape breakwater is 35% higher than the rectangular breakwater. Therefore, we could say that the U-shape breakwater has a better performance than the rectangular one.