• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.101-107
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• 2003

In order to compare the sizes of infants;brands, the apparel size #70 and #80, #90 were surveyed, while upper body lengths, bust circumferences and waists, hip circumferences, shoulder length, sleeve length, neck circumferences of infants' underwears were examined. As a result, it was found that upper body lengths, chest circumferences and lower body lengths of infants' underwears differed more or by $2.0{\sim}3.0cm$ among brands than other sizes. In case of underwear size #70, the average upper body length was 32.8cm; the upper body size of "c" brand was longest or 33.5cm, while that of "e" brand was shortest or 32.0cm. In case of size #80, the average upper body length was 36.0cm; the upper body size of "a" brand was longest or 37.0cm, while that of "e" brand was shortest of 35.0cm. Such findings may be attributable to the fact that the main customers of "a" and "b" brands whose pattern sizes are larger are middle or lower class people who tend to buy larger infants' apparels than their children's actual body sizes. In contrast, "e" brand seems to target the upper class who prefers the apparels almost fitting their children's actual body sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.27-36
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop a slacks pattern drafting method for the fatty women of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's index on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women between the ages of 40∼55 over 1.5 Rohrer's index were measured on 21 items. Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2. 4 types of conventional slacks pattern were collected. The most accepted conventional slacks pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based onthe most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing tests. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing is with the most accepted conventional pattern. According to the statistical analysis of the result of the 12 items, all the items showed significant differences (α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.504-513
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• 2013

This study evaluates the difference of visual effect according to pant style and geometric pattern. The researcher made 28 stimuli-combination of four pant Stiles (classic, baggy, skinny, and bell-bottom) and seven geometric pattern (large vertical stripe, small vertical stripe, large horizontal stripe, small horizontal stripe, large check, small check, and hound's tooth check). The test involved 96 female college students. The stimuli were made with the i-Designer computer program. The panels tested the computer screen images of all manikins wearing pants. A 7-point scale was used to evaluate each image. For the data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied along with an SPSS program. The results of this study are as follows. Three factors (lower-body compensation, abdomen highlight, and length compensation) influenced the visual effect pant styles and geometric patterns. The skinny style and large vertical stripe evaluated positively in elongated height and leg length and a slimmer overall body. It was shown that the vertical stripe pattern was evaluated as more positive than the horizontal stripe pattern in the visual effect; particularly, the results showed distinct aspects in the classic pants style. The mutual influence of the visual effect (according to pants style and geometric pattern) were indicated as two factors of lower-body compensation and length compensation. A more positive visual effects resulted in a higher mutual influence on pant style and geometric pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-80
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• 2002

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the pants pattern of the lower body of 70-85 aged women. I tried to present excellent pants pattern that is convenient and suitable for the activities of elderly women. Through this, I tried to provide basic data necessary for making elderly women 's pants. As a result of evaluating the appearance of the pants pattern according to the body type, the fit of the type 2 was evaluated as the highest in the item except the position of the front waist line. For the objective evaluation of the 3D simulation, the air gap of the pants by the body part analysis showed that there was not much difference in the air gap around the waist circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference by applying the same drawing method and body size. However, in type 2, the air gap of thigh and knee circumference parts was larger than that of type 1 and type 3. Because type 2's legs were thin but it used same size of hemline. It was thought that it is necessary to adjust the space of front and back crotch length to 1 inch (2.54 cm) instead of 1.9 cm (3/4 inch) so that the waistline position of all three types can be set up a little to cover the abdomen. This study was conducted to investigate changes in body shape of elderly women and to develop appropriate pants patterns.