• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1031-1040
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• 1997

This study was done to analyze the body surface developments of armhole area. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The body surface developments showed the characteristics of expansion and contraction of body at armhole area. By arm movements, front armhole lines on the body surface developments of upper arm were slow going, but back armhole lines were full and round. As a whole, armhole line of the back torso was swollen outside especially at backarmpit point area, it seemed like a line of raglan sleeve. 2. Regression Analysis was carried out to adapt armhole line on the upper arm and upper body to bodice and sleeve pattern, following the axillary circumference line and chest breadth line changed to the basic pattern form. As the result, armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$ and 135-180$^{\circ}$ movements deviated from those of standard posture. U-type, clear armhole curve of standard posture turned to V-type, slanting line by arm movements.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose an innovative teaching pedagogy using a half-scale body form in apparel design education and evaluate its effectiveness in augmenting students' understanding of ergonomic patterns. Constructed in alignment with Phoenix's (2018) study, which used 3D body scanning and digital editing software, the half-scale body form was created through a five-step process, encompassing body measurement, 3D body modeling, fabrication of a physical half-scale body form, pattern making, and evaluation. Implemented in an undergraduate patternmaking course offered at a 4-year university in the metropolitan Seoul, this instructional approach's effectiveness was gauged through students' course projects and exit interviews. The results underscored the positive impact of the proposed teaching pedagogy on students' grasp of ergonomic pattern development, fostering a keen understanding of diverse body shapes and sizes and the relationship between the human body and garments. Furthermore, it played a role in cultivating positive body image and self-endorsement among students. The research contributes meaningfully by presenting a fresh perspective in apparel design education, seamlessly integrating advanced anthropometric and technological tools into a conventional patternmaking classroom. It offers a novel learning experience for students majoring in apparel, creating a fun and interactive teaching environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1069-1078
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• 2001

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 1970

1. For the purpose of making the basic pattern construction 100 girls attending the Seoul National University College of Home Economics were measured in finding of body size and coefficient of correlation which would be used as one basis of this study. 2. Coefficient of correlation of each body part based on the breast width was shown as follows; Correlation coefficients of bust to waist and hip were high and those of bust to shoulder width, neck height, back width, and breast width were low. None of that was found between bust and back length. It was not recognized so scientific to adjust the basic pattern construction with figures proportioned by those of neck, shoulder width, breast width, and back width. 3. The method of basic pattern construction obtained by this research has been demonstrated in direct wearing since 1967. It is believed that the result will contribute a great benefit in teaching clothing as well as in mass production industry of ready-made garments.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.289-299
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern for obesity women through comparing the flat pattern with the draping pattern. The results were as follows: 1. In the result of the comparative investigation on pattern and sensory evaluation, it was found that the draping pattern had better comfort and appearance. Especially, as the lower part of the body is more obese and the expansion ratio of the body is higher, the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation. 2. In the result of sensory evaluation, it was found that the proper ease of total crotch length was $2{\sim}3%$ of actual total crotch length.

• Journal of Korean Medicine for Obesity Research
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.24-28
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• 2014

Objectives: We conducted this study to analysis obesity pattern and obesity related blood parameters. Methods: A total of 64 overweight and obese (body mass index [BMI] ${\geq}23cm/kg^2$) women who had no other disease was recruited. Body composition and obesity related blood parameters were measured. Also subjects were given and filled out the Obesity pattern identification questionnaire. We analyzed the differences of body composition and blood parameters and measured correlations of BMI and blood parameters in each obesity pattern. Results: The distribution of obesity pattern was liver depression (35.6%), food accumulation (47.5%) and deficiency (pi and yang deficiency, 22.0%), in order. There were no significant differences age, body composition and obesity related blood parameters between obesity patterns. BMI and obesity related blood parameters, however, showed significant correlations depending on obesity patterns. Conclusions: We concluded that correlations between BMI and obesity related blood parameters were differed depending on obesity patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1049-1060
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop a shirt pattern that enhances the functionality of golf swing motions. The pattern was made with 3D body surface shape data that changed according to dynamic golf postures. The data were collected from the golf swing motions. The 3D body surface data in golf swing postures piled up on the 3D surface data in a static posture. The results showed that the surface shape data changed more in the address, back swing, and finish postures than the other swing postures. The experimental pattern was developed with 3D surface scan data in those three golf swing motions. The pattern had raglan sleeves and the front-bodied piece was divided into two pieces with a princess line, which comes from armscye line of the address posture. The back bodice piece was divided into three pieces with a yoke line and a back princess line. The yoke line was made by back shoulder shape in the back swing posture. The level of comfort of the experimental garment and commercial golf shirts was evaluated by 38 women golfers. The experimental garment pattern was evaluated to be more comfortable in golf swing postures than commercial golf shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.146-169
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• 2010

For the purpose to develop the pattern of a tailored jacket for the Chinese adult women, a drawing method for the pattern of a tailored jacket was selected with the style of 'on&on', a young and casual brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co., Ltd. that has been successful in the China market, and then the measures to be applied were set up by properly combining the body measures such as the mean, mode and median of the entire group from data measured from women of 18 to 24 years old in Shanghai, China in 2008 and the mean body measures of the body type A of 2008 classified by GB/T 1335.2-1997. The pattern of a tailored jacket developed was verified for feasibility based on a wearing test and then revised for the parts with low jacket ability in general including the bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, shoulder, waist back length and back area. The final measures applied for the development of a tailored jacket were 160-165cm for the height, the bust circumference of 87.7cm, waist circumference of 69.6cm and hip circumference of 92.8cm for a jacket.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.