• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.237-248
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• 1988

To access the appropriate height of sleeve cap which is required for the basic sleeve pattern according to arm movements, plaster gypsum experiment was performed. Arm movements were 5types ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to the vertical directions in the front. The appropriateness of the pattern was analyzed by measuring clothing pressure. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Increasing the movement angle, sleeve width increased but height of sleeve cap and armhole girth decreased. 2. Increasing the movement angle, the acromion moved to the front part of bodice. 3. On the basis of the result of the height of sleeve cap, the $\frac{AH}{4} +2.5cm$ sleeve basic 4 pattern is suitable for the direction $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$, and the $\frac{AH}{5}$sleeve basic pattern is suitable for the direction $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$. 4. As the movement angle and height of sleevecap increased, the part which receive high pressure increased and the difference between the hightest and the lowest clothing pressure increased. 5. By the variation of movement angle and height of sleevecap, clothing pressure of upperarm was affected more than that of shoulder blade. 6. The clothing pressure of upperarm and shoulder blades were more affected by the height of sleeve cap than the ease of breast area. 7. Considering the clothing pressure of various arm movement, the most appropriate height of sleeve cap for $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$ positions was to use the $\frac{AH}{4}$+2.5cm, and for $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$, was $\frac{AH}{5}$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.742-754
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• 2013

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately $50^{\circ}$, $70^{\circ}$ and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of $55^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of $68^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of $68^{\circ}$. Also, in the results of experiment on $55^{\circ}$ angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over $70^{\circ}$ in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.901-910
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• 2002

This study is to classify somatotypes of the upper class boys in elementary school. The study is conducted through anthoropometric measurements and photometric measurements. The subjects are 320 boys in the age group of 10 to 11 years old. The following conclusions are drawn from this study. 1. The height items are increased along with age increase. The increases in the factors, which specify vertical sizes such as height and length, are a little larger than those of breadth, depth, and girth, which specify ; horizontal sizes. 2. The factor analysis on anthropometric measurements and photometric measurements reveals five somatic composition factors and those factors comprised 79.60% of total variance. 3. The torso shapes of the upper class boys in elementary school are classified into three categories. The first type is taller and heavier than the average elementary school upper class boys and has the highest rising shoulders. The shape of the back is about average and the chest is developed above average. The curvature of the lower back is gentle and lower abdomen protrudes the most of the three types. The second type is tall and slightly heavier than average and shoulders are raised a little. The shoulder blades protrude about average and the curvature of lower back is the most developed of all. The cheat is developed about average and the abdomen is a little protruding. The third type is the most common with the smallest height of the three and skinny with dropped shoulders. The chest is somewhat flat and the shoulder blades protrude about average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.292-304
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• 1990

The surface change of upperarm and shoulder blade area are caused by the extensive upper limb movement, thus it is necessary to measure the amount of change for constructing the clothing. Moire photography was taken after plastic casters of upperarm and shoulder blade area was prepared. 1. For the shoulder blade area, subjects showed the same change of surface area for the various limb positions, wherease, for the upperarm only at the $0^{\circ}\;and\;180^{\circ}$ limb position, same change was observed. 2. As the movement of the upperarm was increased, surface area of axillary part was increased and that of shoulder part was decreased. 3. To make a bodice pattern, the minimum size of the back with the ease were $\frac{B}{4}$+3.13 cm R for normal wear and $\frac{B}{4}$+5.75 cm for active wear. 4. As the movement of the arm was increased, the cross section for the upperarm were changed to elliptical shape. 5. For each horizontal basic line, there was a positive correlation between the amount of change of shoulder blad area and that of upperarm area.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.97-107
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• 2013

To give satisfaction with the fit to a wearer, the wearer's body size and body types should be considered first, this study conducted the descriptive statistical analysis on the upper body measurements of women in their 20s because their body shape has reached the completion stage of adult female's physical development. Also, the analysis classified their upper body types into groups to secure basic data for (maximum satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. The factor analysis was conducted using 49 items of measurement. The main factor analysis was used as a factor extraction method. After extracting the factors with Eigenevalues over 1, the factor loadings were drawn using the Varimax rotation. As a result, 6 factors were extracted. To secure internal consistency, factors that could lower the reliability of the experiment were taken out, so only 36 of the 49 items were used for the analysis. After selecting the items to recognize the main features of each body type, they were used for the final factor analysis. The entire R square of the 6 factors was 84.06%. To classify the upper body types of women in their 20s and to recognize the main features of each body shape type, the researcher conducted the cluster analysis with the items generated from the factor analysis. Through the cluster analysis, the upper body type of women in their 20s were classified into 3 body types. Also, since there are some restrictions on this research objects in terms of local and numbers of measured objects, the results of the this research should only be used as basic data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.341-349
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• 1991

This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development of the clothing and textile area. The focus of this study was to charac­terize the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view. For this purpose, firstly, categorization of the subjects based on their lateral view and definition of each category, secondly, characterization of each somatotype, and thirdly, sugges­tion of the deterministic criteria of each category were complished. The subjects in this study were female college students of 18 to 26 year-old whose somatotypes were comparatively invariable after cessation of physical growth. The metrical items characterizing upper body lateral view were chosen. Data were collected through Anthropometry and Photometry and analyzed by Factor analysis. The results were as follows; 1. Each subject's side view contour was classified as straight type, lean-back type, bend­forward type, and swayback according to its position to the relative plumb line. Straight type was defined as the type in which the plumb line passes through the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joint, and the mid abdominal region laterally. Lean-back type positioned the plumb line more posteriorly than straight type. Bend-forward type positioned the plumb line more anteriorly than straight type. Swayback positioned the plumb line at about the same line as straight type. And curvature of side view contur was more prominent in this type than in straight type. 2. Seven factors were figured out. The first factor was representing upperbody volume, and the second factor was representing size, the third factor was horizontal distance from lateral view representing size view contour. The fourth factor was front body length, the fifth factor was back body length. The sixth factor was shoulder length and shoulder width representing shoulder shape. The seventh factor was the bust shape.