• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2007

The object of this research was to observe the female college 220 students of aged 19-24 for four years and to examine somatotypes distribution; this research intends to contribute to the fitness of clothes by studying the body distribution that affects the clothing structure. The measurement and wearing experiment for somatotypes are done years annually. The average, standard deviation and coefficient of variation was calculated by the SAS program. The research results are as follows: The three somatotypes of side view silhouette (straight type, bend-forward type, lean-back type) showed fairly even distribution. As a result of dressing experiment with the basic bodice pattern, the most influential factor on its suitability was found to be the neck area, shoulder and ease of bodice respectively. The partial body types to observe were categorized as: shoulder(normal, slope, squared), bust(A cup, B cup, C cup), hips (normal, droop, projecting). As for the result for full body type by BMI, normal type was most dominant, and for the categorization by drop, the type A which is with small breasts and large hips was most prevalent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.37-46
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• 1985

The study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making for women. The automation by the use of computer provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. GIGI Graphic Terminal is used for pattern making. The results are as follows: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented on the X-Y co-ordinates. 2. Body measurements for bodice and sleeve pattern are as follows: For bodice pattern: center back waist length, bust girth, and shoulder width. For sleeve pattern: arm hole length, wrist girth, and sleeve length. 3. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.691-698
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• 1998

This study investigated the clothing constructional characteristics of contemporary folk Jogori design retailed at the market. This study focussed on comparison of style variation between contemporary Jogori and traditional Jogori. The data were collected from five top contemporary folk dress makers's 997-1998 fall-winter collection. The results of this study were as following. 1) The traditional folk clothing constructional elements remained most among the con- temporary Jogori design were center back seam(Deung-Sol) and attached front bodice extensi on(Sup). Neckline shaping(Geet) and neckline binding(Dong-Jeong) were also observed frequently. 2) The most obvious changes from the traditional Jogori design were elimination of the ribbon fastener in front, adaptation of various neckline shaping used in the Yi dynasty, and lengthened garment length. 3) The western garment construction techniques applied to the contemporary Jogori design were use o( pocket and button closure. The center front extension was replaced with attached front bodice extension(Sup) for a few Jogori design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.131-144
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• 1993

Even though it has been to research on the variance of clothing pressure and on its effect of human body, it has not been available to evaluate the clothing pressure as an objective standard ta for the determination of an extra quantity of bodice' basic pattern. In this paper the basic pattern(the close adherence original shape) is determined by a drawing of plane figure after detaching an unweaving clothing from the inside of the gypsum, and the extra quantity is figured by a extension quantity when is formatted with 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 cm extra quantity longitudinal-cross section figures. With our experimental method, review the variance of clothing pressure according to difference of the extra quantity which was figured with subjects wearing experimental clothing including the extra quantity. The difference of the extra quantity was able to calculate with data form the subjects when anatomical position and five movements, then compare with subjects wearing non-extra quantity experimental clothing. The results of experiment as the follows : 1. There is only few body portions with the significant variance according to the increasing of he extra quantity at he body portion and the sleeve portion. 2. The clothing pressure of the sleeve portion was higher than the clothing pressure of the body portion. The difference of clothing pressure according to the variance of the extra quantity at the sleeve portion is more significant than the body portion. 3. Consider several important pressure points which wil be the No. 1 at the front of body portion. No. 17, 18 at the back of body portion and No. 21 at the sleeve portion. 4. It is important to have plane figure of gypsum when format an basis pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.552-561
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• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.