• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1993.10a
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• pp.205-219
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to determine maximal width of bodice and skirt pattern of 50 college girls for more scientific patternmaking development in clothing construction. The body measurements data of this study was calculated by SAS, means analysis, regression analysis and T-test were used. The results are as follows. 1. The results of analyzing the whole 85 items of the entire body measurements of model are in table 2. 2. It was suggested the whole average cross section of measurement parts by rohrer index as the result of gathering the each section. 3. Representative items were suggested as fundamental parts in determining the maximal width of bodice and skirt basic pattern by rohrer index. 4. The entire abbreviated calculation formula of bodice and xkirt pattern was suggested.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.360-365
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• 2000

This research is the trial for the computation of the ease-rate for the bodice pattern. The result of the analysis about the cross section figures of garment space by using a 3-D measuring instrument is that: The garment space of each bodice by each body size is definite. In the figure of cross section of the basic lines, an area of cross section of garment space and length of cross section of garment space are not increased in proportion to an area of cross section of the body. The ease rate is the same no matter that flat-rate of the body is same or different. The ease-rate is computed by length of cross section of garment space that is in proportion to the radius of the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.770-782
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• 2001

The definite objects of this study are as follows; 1. The study presents the methods of the designing collar pattern and bodice pattern by each concrete object after comparing and analyzing the factors among the features which are in need of clothes designing. 2. The object of this study is to make body-suitable ready-made clothes by comparing and analyzing the methods of designing collar pattern and bodices pattern presented by each concrete objects and Bunka Pattern. The results of this study are as follows; 1 . The results of this study developed the body-suitable bodice pattern of bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study was rated high in the aspects of the shape of neck and shoulder. 2. The collar pattern was designed according to each type. The front center rising point of straight type is 2.5cm, lean-back type is 3.0cm and bend-forward type is 1.5cm. Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study is rated high in the aspects of the shape. To confirm the increase and change of the measure definitely, the complete examination of each subject is necessary. This developed and investigated pattern must be supplemented more by comparing and analyzing with other pattern and body types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.383-393
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to evaluate wearing evaluation method in order to propose well fitted bodice pattern. For this study, the subjects were drawn from obese boys at the ages 9 to 11. Wearing evaluation had use of 3 bodice type and 3 evaluative method. The appearance evaluation was to evaluate subjects by professional group. The functional evaluation was to valued subjects by self-evaluation. The quantitative evaluation was to estimate subjects through Electomyograph. Wearing evaluation was done through questionnaire of 32 item in objectivity, 36 item in subjectivity, and 36 item in quantity. The data were analyzed by using ANOVA. From wearing evaluation, appearance and functional evaluation had significant most of them but quantitative evaluation had not significant. It was known that the human sense was more sensitive the quantitative mechanism. And its obtained by both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation, respectively was found to be significantly correlated, Independent relation was observed in the results from both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation as well as from both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation. Therefore, we propose that it is proper to evaluate the propriety of bodice pattern for obese boys of school year, mutually compromising both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation or both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.57-67
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to improve the clothing life of the children between the nine to twelve by making a scientific and rational basic bodice pattern. The comparison of the eight pattern drafting currently used in Korea was referred in order to make new basic pattern. Three hundred fifty-two subjects from 9 to 12 years old in Seoul area were measured on 19 items. The measurements (24 items including 19 measured items and 5 drafted items that were difficult to measure) were analyzed by mean values and correlation coefficients between each item. This new pattern attempted to set the ease for clothing from experiments of the changes of body surface in motion. On the basis of the above results, a new bodice basic pattern was developed and tested with wearing three times. Through the experiments in measuring the changes of the body surface in motion, it was concluded that it desirable to set a standard of 12cm clothing ease on the bust circumference and 4cm on the waist circumference. The correlation coefficient of the tack width to across back was relatively high (r= .677), therefore, the latter measuring items were eliminated. A grading method was adopted to determine the width and depth of neckline and shoulder slope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.463-474
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• 2003

In this research, adult women＇s shoulder types were Classified through direct and indirect measurements to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, regression formula by shoulder types were calculated and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 66.1 to of total variance. 2. By using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and subject were classified into 5 clusters. Type 1 was the inclined shoulders, wide shoulders and passive posture. Type 2 was the front type shoulders and active posture. Type 3 was the thick shoulders and back type shoulders. Type 4 was the narrow shoulders. Type f was the drooped shoulders, thin shoulder and sway posture. 3. The body types of individuals were judged by discriminant analysis. 4. After setting 4 items such as the bust girth, posterior waist length, neck base girth and waist girth as representative items and regression formulas were presented. the superiority of the final basic bodice patterns were demonstrated by high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.13-28
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• 2006

The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.