• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice pattern drafting method for Korean elderly women over sixty years old on the basis of their physical characteristics which differ from those of adult women. The study is composed as follows; 1. One hundred and five elderly women were measured on 20 items. Twenty-five items including 20 measured items and 5 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. A new method was developed based on the results of data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through three fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for elderly women by comparing it with the conventional pattern for adult women. A five-point rating scale was developed for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant differences (a$\leqq$0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.43-54
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• 1998

From the viewpoint of clothing construction, it is necessary to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck and the shouder, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, the shoulder gradient, the shape of the scapular, and the shape of the breast. In this report, factor analysis was applied to 39 items of neck & shoulder level measurements, including stature, weight, but grith, waist girth, to demonstrate the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing, and to classify the neck and shoulder level shapes. The subjects investigated were 126 women of the age 20-29. The main results are follows : 1. For factors of body form were extracted by the factor analysis. The 1st principal component can be interpreted as "size" component, the 2nd-3th principal component is "shape" component relating to neck and shoulder level, and the 4th principal component is "shoulder shape" component. 2. With regard to factor loadings, we were able to extract the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing. M16, M22, S26, S30, S34, S35, S36, C37, C38, C39.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.24-36
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• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.7
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• pp.185-200
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1754-1762
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.164-172
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the most appropriate arm-hole depth in 9 positions of arm movements. This subjects were four females, college students aged 18 to 23 years old. The clothing size 55 was used for this study. In the experiments for the investigation of the arm-hole depth, the evaluations were performed for aesthetic view, clothing adaptability to arm movements, and quantity of materials pulled up by 9 movements of arm. The results of this study were as follows: 1) In the aesthetic evaluation, there were no significant differences in arm-hole depths. 2) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to arm movements, the experiment clothes, in which-arm-hole depths were raised, had more positive evaluations especially with the increasing the angle of arm movements. 3) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to each body areas, there were no significant differences in all body areas except upper arm circumference blade. 4) In the evaluation of quantity of materials pulled up by arm movements, the clothes of B/4-2 arm-hole depth had the least amount pulled up by arm movements, which showed the highest adaptability to arm movement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.26-43
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• 2023

This study sought to typify and characterize the upper body shape of women with large breasts by classifying only Korean adult women aged 20-69 years whose difference dimension between bust and underbust circumference was 12.5 cm or greater. This study attempted to provide necessary information for the development of upper body clothing for women with large busts. Upper body horizontal, upper body height, shoulder size, upper body length, and shoulder slop factor were extracted to constitute upper body shapes of women with large busts. Upper body shapes of women with large busts were classified into four types: low obese upper body tall body type, high normal upper body short body type, drooping shoulders slender upper body tall body type, and broad shoulders slender upper body short body type. Upper body proportions of women with and without large busts were analyzed as follows. Women with large breasts had narrower shoulder width compared to bust width and waist width. Their underbust and waist circumferences were larger than their bust circumferences. For the development of tops for women with large busts, bodice pattern development was required, taking into account shoulder width, chest, and upper body length. Future studies should focus on angles of busts in more detail. Research should be conducted on the development of bodice by upper body type of women with large busts analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.