• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.6
• /
• pp.880-892
• /
• 2017

In this study, the appearance change and the heat moisture transfer properties of knitted fabric by yarn shrinkage were examined to obtain useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional materials. Eleven types of knitted fabric were knitted using highly bulky acrylic-blended yarn. After shrinking the specimens using dry heat treatment, the appearance change and thickness were measured. An HEC simulator was adopted for measuring the heat moisture transfer properties of specimens by yarn shrinkage. When holes were arranged vertically in the mesh structure, the specimens with 2,500 and 5,000 holes showed high percent change of hole area, appearance, and thickness. When holes were diagonally arranged in the mesh structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 1,250 holes was larger than the one with 2,500 holes. However, the dimensional stability of the specimen with 2,500 holes was better because of its smaller appearance and thickness change. In the tuck structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 625 and 416 holes was relatively large compared with the appearance and thickness change. Furthermore, the hole size in the tuck structure was smaller than that in the mesh structure but the percent change of hole area was larger. Therefore, it was proved that the tuck structure is more suitable than the mesh structure for developing thermo-sensitive functional materials. Heat moisture transfer property test verified that the change of hole area by yarn shrinkage enabled obtaining the thermal effect due to the distinct temperature difference in the inner layer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.7
• /
• pp.1117-1123
• /
• 1997

This paper describes the measurement of thickness of still air layer above fabrics and its relationship to structural properties of fabrics. Rayon fabrics - of both filament and spun - and wool nylon blended fabrics varied in terms of surface hairiness were used. Temperature and relative humidity above fabrics were measured at the various distances from the fabric surface. Increase in the thickness of fabric, fabric weight, yarn count, and crimp resulted increase in thickness of still air layer above fabric. Surface hairiness of fabrics as well as the structural properties were found to be related with the thickness of still air layer above fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.14-22
• /
• 2016

The objective of this study is to develop eco-friendly, functional towel material utilizing cotton-Modal-chitosan blended(C-M-CH) yarn and natural dyeing with mugwort colorants. Dyeing properties of towels with mugwort colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions including concentration of mugwort colorants, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time, and the effects of mordants on dye uptakes were investigated. The C-M-CH towel showed better dye uptake than 100% cotton towel with mugwort colorants. The shade of towels got darker and red-yellowish tint increased by mordanting. Comparing with 100% cotton towel, the colorfastness of dyed C-M-CH towel was satisfactory showing above 3 grade which is the lowest grade to washing fastness. The antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and deodorization performance of towels were excellent and improved by dyeing with mugwort colorants. From the results obtained, it is concluded that the cotton-Modal-chitosan blended towel dyed with mugwort colorants can be used practically for an eco-friendly and multi-functional towel materials with excellent absorbance and drying properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.5 s.114
• /
• pp.58-71
• /
• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.737-746
• /
• 2003

This research was designed to investigate the preference for underwear and textiles of college students according to season. One hundred and nine subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed about the most favorite materials among underwear textiles according to each season. The extent of preference was compared by season. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most important purpose of wearing underwear was the hygienic performance in summer and the insulation in winter. 2. The most favorite textile of underwear was cotton regardless of season and the most favorite type of underwear was fashionable underwear in summer and insulating underwear in winter. 3. The most preferred material underwear was white jacquard knitted with cotton 30's yarn for summer and white and gray melange plain knit made with cotton and polyester blended 38's syro-spunned yarn for winter. 4. From the results about the factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, color, touch and cool sensation were the positive factor in summer, while insulation and pattern were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. 5. From the results about the sensibility factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, 'comfort', 'refined', 'naive' were the positive factor in summer, while 'comfort', 'naive', 'refined' were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. From the above results, hygienic and fashionable underwear is required in summer and thin and insulating underwear in winter for young people. Additionally, in textiles, cotton and cotton blended, comparatively light and simple patterned material is recommended for underwear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.73-90
• /
• 2014

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.299-307
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.1
• /
• pp.149-159
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2011

Research information related to application of enzyme as pretreatment and subsequent functional finishing on wool blended textiles for imparting multi-functional properties is still scanty. Yarn-blended wool/cotton fabric was pretreated with both a cellulase (Bactosol-CA) or a protease (Savinase-16.0LEx) in individual, subsequently finished with Synthappret-BAP and ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin based combination to impart anti-shrink, anti-microbial, softening and anti-crease properties. The performance of the finished fabrics depended on type of finishing combinations applied rather than enzyme pretreatment. Savinase pretreatment followed by Synthappret+Ceraperm-MW combination finishing impart both anti-shrink property as well as softening, while Bactosol pretreatment followed by ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin and sanitize combination finishing impart antimicrobial activity as well as anti-shrink finish to the wool/cotton blend fabric.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.23-31
• /
• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.