• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.57-74
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• 2001

In the past, the predictions of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were mainly relied on the hydraulic model tests and empirical methods. In recent years, however, as computers have come into wide use, more accurate models have gradually been developed and thus replaced those conventional methods. For prediction of topographical change near the coastal area, we need informations of wave and current conditions in the numerical model which should be calculated in advance. Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the new layout of the harbor and planned south breakwater for preventing intrusion of sand. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.257-262
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• 2002

Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered from accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the case of a narrow tidal range at Nakdong river's estuary area to understand the effect of water level variation on the littoral drift. Simulations are conducted in terms of incident wave direction and tidal level. Characteristics of wave transformation, nearshore current, sediment transport, and bottom change are shown and analyzed. We found from the simulation that the tidal level impact to the sediment transport is very important and we should apply the numerical model with different water level to analyze sediment transport mechanism correctly. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2004

A continuous monitoring of textural characteristics of surface sediments, sedimentation rates and beach profile was carried out to investigate the seasonal variations of sedimentary processes in the Imjado beach, southwestern coast of Korea for two years. The beach profiles consist of steep beach face and relatively flat middle and low tide beaches. The slope of the beach face increases in summer and decreases in winter, in good accordance with the standard beach cycle. Ridge and runnel systems are well developed in the middle and low tide beaches during the summer, but these structures are replaced by mega-ripples during the winter. The sediments are fining southward as well as landward. The mean grain-size tends to be increasingly coarser during seasons of autumn and winter on the north beach and during seasons of winter and spring on the south one. In addition, the sediments are eroded on the north beach and accumulated on the south one as a whole. These are probably due to southward transportation of the sediments as long-shore current (NE-SW) runs around the coastal line of the beach. However, the seasonal variations in accumulation rates are very complex and irregular. It is considered that the Imjado beach represents in non-equilibrium state, as a result of coastal and submarine topographic changes by artificial agents and sea-level uprising associated with global warming.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.581-589
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• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2010

A terrestrial LiDAR was used to acquire precise and high-resolution topographical information of Malipo beach, Korea. Terrestrial LiDAR and RTK-DGPS (VRS) were mounted on top of a survey vehicle and used to scan 20 times stop-and-go method with 250 m spacing intervals at ebb tides. In total, 7 measurements were made periodically from 2008 to 2009 and after each beach replenishment event. We carried out GIS-based 3D spatial analysis such as slope and volume calculations in order to assess topographical changes over time. In relation to beach replenishment, comparative analysis of each volume change revealed them to be similar. This result indicates that the terrestrial LiDAR measurements are accurate and can be used to analyze temporal topographical changes. In conclusion, the methodology employed in this study can be used efficiently to exercise coastal management through monitoring and analyzing beach process such as erosion and deposition.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.221-235
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• 2006

In order to understand the transport mechanism of tidal beach sediments in Deukryang Bay, south coast of Korea, beach profiles, surface sediments, sedimentation rates and hydrodynamic conditions have been investigated. The beach is composed of a steep beach face and gentle low-tide terrace, showing general morphologic characteristics of tide dominated beach. Central beach face of an indented coast becomes flattened in summer, but ridge and runnel system developed in other seasons makes the beach profile rather irregular. These seasonal variations of beach profiles and sedimentation rate indicate that beach sedimentation is mainly controlled by both tide and wave processes. Erosion is prevalent in winter when strong wind wave is dominant, while deposition is dominant in other seasons. However, central beach showed an apparent erosional phase in summer. This is caused by strong waves induced by southerly strong winds occurring ephemerally during the summer. On the other hand, sedimentation rates are -89.2 mm/yr on the central beach and 60.5 mm/yr and 38.2 mm/yr on the sides. This result suggests that sediments are eroded on the central beach and subsequently transported to the both sides. Therefore, the central part of Sumun beach, used as a beach bathing site, will be continuously eroded, if nearby dyke continues to prevent the sediment supply from sources.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.321-335
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• 2013

High resolution data for the coastal sand beach during short-term in Jinbok-ri, Uljin-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do are obtained by terrestrial LiDAR. The micro-geomorphological changes of 8 times before and after the strong low-pressure events during June to September, 2009 and changes under the various environments of wave-energy are investigated in the study. The obvious geomorphological changes between the northern and southern sand beach in Jinbok-ri are revealed by terrestrial LiDAR as well as by grain size analysis. The strong waves by the typhoons decrease the area and volume of the beach, and especially the area is largely influenced. The erosive and depositional processes dominate the northern and southern sand beach, respectively, after high wave in September. These results suggest that lots of sand grains in the beach are largely re-transported within the beach rather than offshore.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.45-50
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• 1975

Over 50 carbonate samples were collected from the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island Textural characters, percent calcium carbonate and nature of the carbonate sediment were determined. Apparently the carbonate beach sediments were derived from the adjacent nearshore. The carbonate sediments contain over 90 percent of molluscan sheel particles, especially oyster shell fragments. The volumetric contribution of the shell fragment to the carbonate sediments is so large that the pre-existed oyster-reef like banks in the nearshore off the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island represent a spectacular example of carbonate sedimentary processes.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.147-164
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• 2015

This study analyzed characteristics and tendencies of seasonal change on shoreline and beach with 8 beaches at East Sea coast by topographical survey for 2 years from March 2012 to February 2013. The shorelines of East Sea coast appeared that amount of seasonal change was bigger than amount of annual change. The seasonal change tendencies between Gangwon-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do coast areas existed some regional differences. To synthesize seasonal changes on 8 beaches of East Sea coast, shoreline advance and beach deposit showed clearly in summer and shoreline retreat and beach erosion showed clearly in autumn. This result is different from tendencies of seasonal change in many mid-latitude coast areas of the world, but generally corresponds with reference studies in west coast and east coast. The major factor of beach erosion showing mostly in summer is storm wave caused by typhoon. The beach erosion by storm wave also occurred in late winter. And it assumes that the beach deposit showing mostly in autumn is result of equilibrium processes of coast area against strong erosion in summer.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.