• 제목/요약/키워드: Basic draping

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입체 재단법에 의한 Tight Fitting시 등폭 기준선의 설정에 관한여 (On the Fixing of the Shoulder Blade Level during Tight Fitting by the Draping Design)

  • 이순섭
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제4권3호
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    • pp.373-381
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    • 1996
  • Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

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대퇴골 골 간단 부 골절치료용 복합재료 고정판의 국부적 거동 예측을 위한 기초 연구 (A basic study on the prediction of local material behavior of composite bone plate for metaphyseal femur fractures)

  • 유성환;손대성;장승환
    • Composites Research
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    • 제24권3호
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    • pp.6-11
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    • 2011
  • 본 논문은 복잡한 형상으로 드레이핑 성행된 직물 복합재료 구조의 국부적 물성 변화 및 재료거동 예측을 위한 방법을 제시하였다. 제안된 방법을 적용하기 위해 대퇴골 골 간단 부 골절치료용 고정판을 대상으로 선정하였다. 드레이핑 공정 종 발생하는 재료의 거시적/미시적 변형에 의한 국부적 재료물성 변화를 다양한 실험을 통해 검증하고, 그 결과를 복잡한 형상을 가지는 고정판의 정적/피로 거동 예측에 활용하였다. 본 논문은 복잡한 형상을 가지는 복합재료 구조물의 설계 및 성능평가에 유용한 정보와 해석방법을 제시할 것으로 기대된다.

엠파이어 스타일 시대[1789-1820] 스펜서 재킷 제작에 관한 연구 (A Study on Draping and Making up of Spencer Jacket in the Empire Style(1789-1820))

  • 최미경;조진숙;최진희
    • 복식
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    • 제56권4호
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    • pp.48-64
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

인대의 허리 기준선 설정에 따른 입체 패턴 비교 연구 (A Comparative Study of the Draping Pattern based on Setting Waist Base Line of Dress Form)

  • 양정은;김양원;이은경;이해영
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제16권5호
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    • pp.969-977
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    • 2007
  • The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

Development of Basic Pattern of Wedding Dress I - Focused on Torso Pattern for Top Dresses -

  • Kwon, Sookhee
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제20권4호
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    • pp.439-448
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    • 2018
  • This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

패션 실기 수업에 적용한 플립드 러닝의 교육적 효과 (Educational Effects of Flipped Learning on Fashion Practical Course)

  • 김장현
    • 한국산학기술학회논문지
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    • 제21권4호
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    • pp.497-508
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    • 2020
  • 최근 학습자 중심의 수업을 중시하는 패러다임과 함께 온라인과 오프라인의 연계를 통한 플립드 러닝의 도입이 확대되고 있는 추세이다. 본 연구는 패션학과의 실기 수업의 하나인 기초 드레이핑 교과목에 플립드 러닝 교수법을 적용하여 교육적 효과를 입증하고, 교수자 측면에서 플립드 러닝 도입 시, 고려해야할 함의점을 제언하는데 목적이 있다. 연구 목적을 달성하기 위한 연구 방법은 플립드 러닝 교수법과 기초 드레이핑에 관련된 이론적 연구와 플립드 러닝이 반영된 기초 드레이핑의 과정을 안내하기 위한 모형개발연구를 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과, 플립드 러닝을 접목한 기초 드레이핑의 교과목에 대한 학습자들의 만족도는 매우 높은 것으로 나타났으며, 특히, 학습 관련 영상 자료에서 매우 큰 만족감을 나타내는 것으로 파악되었다. 그 배경으로는 수강인원에 따른 교육의 효율성 저하에 대한 보완, 교육에 대한 항상성 부여로 나타났다. 개선점으로는 영상 학습 자료의 기술적·내용적 보완 및 영상 자료 외에 문서화된 학습 자료의 제시를 들 수 있는데, 이는 플립드 러닝 교수법을 수행함에 있어 학습자 눈높이를 고려한 동영상의 제시가 매우 중요하다고 할 수 있다. 교수자의 측면에서 고려해야할 함의점으로, 영상촬영과 편집의 시간을 할애해야하는 측면, 학습자 관점에서 교육의 구성을 바라보는 시각, 플립드 러닝을 설계를 위한 교수자의 교과목에 대한 깊이 있는 이해가 필요하다고 판단된다.

3D 스캔데이터를 활용한 국내 남성용 스킨스쿠버복 패턴개발 (Development of the Men's Scuba Diving Suit Pattern by Using 3D Body-Scanned Data)

  • 최진희
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제49권4호
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    • pp.105-113
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.

패턴 제작 방법이 플레어스커트의 실루엣에 미치는 영향 (Effect of the Pattern Making Method on the Silhouette of the Flared Skirt)

  • 신영란;추미선
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제10권6호
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    • pp.989-996
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

코르셋 룩 원명에 관한 연구 - 20대 전기 표준체형 여성을 중심으로 - (A Study on Corset Look Pattern - Focused on Women in Their 20s with Standard Body Type -)

  • 김시만;성옥진
    • 복식
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    • 제57권8호
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    • pp.48-59
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

의복구성분야 교육과정 비교분석을 통한 패션산업 활성화 방안 -4년제 국내 대학을 중심으로- (Comparative Analysis of Domestic University's Curriculum in the Field of Clothing Construction for Activating Fashion Business)

  • 홍성애;이진희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제35권11호
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    • pp.1399-1408
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    • 2011
  • This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.