Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.38
no.1
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pp.1-18
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2014
This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.20
no.4
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pp.41-56
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2018
The purposes of this study were to investigate preference of Baekje culture relics and to examine purchasing behaviors of fashion cultural products of adolescents. The subjects were 421 adolescents and measuring instruments consisted of Baekje relics preference items, fashion cultural products purchasing behaviors items, and subject' demographic attributions. The data were analyzed by frequency analysis, $x^2$ test, factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, adolescents were more likely to prefer crown ornaments of the King Muryong in Kongju region, and gilt-bronze incense burner and halo in Buyeo region. Second, as fashion cultural products, adolescents were more likely to prefer T-shirts and accessory items, and modern image. As product selection criteria, they considered aesthetics as the most important factor, followed by symbolism and practicality. Adolescents evaluated the resonable purchase price of fashion cultural products as less than 20,000 won for T-shirts, cap & bag, and less than 10,000 won for accessories. The adolescent's satisfaction of fashion cultural products was low, and the main dissatisfaction was high prices, and the lack of practicality and diversity. Third, the preference for Baekje cultural relics and purchasing behaviors of fashion cultural products differed according to age and sex of adolescents. This study showed that fashion culture products for adolescents need to be designed in a modern sense with a unique cultural symbolism, focusing on T-shirts and accessories items. In addition, fashion cultural products companies should established the product development plan considering the characteristics according to the age and sex of adolescents.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.41
no.2
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pp.281-295
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2017
This research is about the reproduction of Baekje's armor-lamellar made for the Hanseong Baekje Museum exhibition. The purpose of the research are as follows. First, to categorize Baekje armor by type based on ancient documents and the excavated relics. Second, to reproduce categorized armor that provide a visual work for use in diverse areas. Baekje armor can be examined through the ancient records and several excavated relics. The results of the research are as follows. First, Baekje armor can be categorized into four types by material: 1) brass 2) iron 3) leather 4) bone. The can also be categorized into three types by finishing a) Hyeongnyubongnyun type (the leather skin interweaves with the lamellar armor method) b) Hyeokpobongnyun type (the method which wraps around the edges of leather skin) c) leather cloth added to clothe type. Second, we reproduced metal armor, iron armor and leather armor using brass, iron and leather (but not bone). Each type of armor were made life-size for exhibition purposes. We used Hyeongnyubongnyun method, Hyeokpobongnyung method and leather cloth; in addition, reproductions were made based on the Yangdang method that connected the front and the back from both sides of the shoulders so it can be open and close at the side part.
When it comes to a country's traditional ideas. that country's geographic setting and religious thought show the people's consciousness, and the characteristics of historic sites and relics show their cultural aspects. Our country has 5000-year cultural history. Especially, the Baekje cultural history created very remarkable relics in our history. With regard to Baekje's own patterns and workmanship, their ornaments were more focused on the beauty of soft and voluptuous curves than that of Goguryeo and Silla This study researched design characteristics of ornaments and symbolic aspects of the patterns by focusing on crowns, crowns' accessories, earrings, necklaces, chignon ornaments of the Baekje's ornaments, To put emphasis on Baekje's ornaments by comparing Baekje's ornaments with Goguryeo's and Silla's. This study collected data on Baekje's ornaments, and reviewed domestic references and specialty publications at the Buyeo National Museum, Gong-ju National Museum, home and abroad, and studied the images of Baekje's metal crafts and patterns through theses. Baekje had splendid and glorious artistic culture, but there are not many historical data and supportive relics left these days. Therefore, a lot of attention, researches and development on Baekje culture are needed. This study found that the ornaments of the Baekje era have not only ornament functions but also the people's creative mind. The culture contents in recent technological development and industrialization change people's recognition, and now they have interest in Baekje culture. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to widely popularize Baekje by studying the patterns of the Baekje era more and developing various and new designs.
As a cultural feature of, the relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong are suitable design content for applying with sophisticated production and delicate molding laser cutting techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop modern bag designs using relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong of Baekje using laser-cutting techniques. First, the historical background and meaning of Baekje's cultural content were explored. Second, the principle of laser-cutting techniques were explored, laser-cutting techniques applied to modern fashion and bag design were examined, and bag design characteristics were analyzed. Third, based on prior research, the criteria for the development of bag design, from which eight bag design were developed that combine modern popularity and functionality utilizing Baekje cultural content and using laser-cutting techniques to apply the textile design developed by researchers in 2013 (modified to match laser-cutting techniques). The research results show that bag were clutch, tote, shoulder, and mini. Gold, silver, brown, beige, and navy colors were arranged, based on black/white contrast. Cow, lambskin, washed snakeskin, mesh, and Saffiano leather were used. For the pattern-applying technique, this study showed that a new digital technique, which is laser-cutting techniques could be combined with contemporary bag designs. Moreover, a bag design was developed that has a modern sense and functionality as well as Korean formativeness, which is significant.
Buddhist culture had a significant impact on the entire mode of Korean living after the introduction of Buddhism to Korea in the Three Kingdom Period. Baekje embraced Buddhism in 384 A.D.; subsequently, diverse artifacts have now been excavated from the temples. Various research on Korean temples are now in progress; however there is inadequate research on the relics and patterns excavated from the temples due to the focus on the temples’ architectural form. There is limited research on the development of fashion cultural products that use relics excavated from the temples. This study develops designs for fashion cultural products using Baekje Sabi Period relics; specifically, the sari container excavated from Buyeo’s Wangheungsaji, Neungsanrisaji, and Iksan’s Mireuksaji. The sari container’s original form, patterns, and writing were developed into patterns and applied to fashion products such as t-shirts, bags and scarves. Traditional multicolored paintwork exhibited on the temples, ‘dancheong’, was selected as the color for products that can symbolically express the nature of their origin. Adobe Illustrator CC and Adobe Photoshop CC were used to extract the motifs and develop the designs. Six patterns and nine fashion products were designed, accounting for a total of fifteen developed items. We hope that the fashion cultural product design expresses the distinct characteristics of Baekje’s Sabi Period and can be applied to various products and related fields.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.1
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pp.141-148
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2007
As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.
In modern society, culture is an important factor to form a country's image and identity and a representative content to generate revenue. Culture is a keyword to design life in the 21st century and has become competitiveness between countries. As a cultural content with international competitiveness, this study performed textile design development with the use of relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong, which is the tumulus of King Muryeong who was the 25th king of Baekje among Korean history. The developed design could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products such as clothes, scarf, neck-tie, and bag. The process for the design development was carried out as follows: As a first step, this study found basis as a cultural content with a global sense that could form the historical value of the Tomb of King Muryeong and gain global sympathy of people all over the world through literature reviews. As a second step, this study examined the current state that traditional Korean elements were used as a fashion cultural products. As a third step, this study analyzed the current state and problems of fashion cultural products using relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong through field survey. As a final step, this study planned the concept of design with the use of diadem ornaments, earring, sword, stone guardian animal, and bricks with lotus-flower design from the tomb of King Muryeong. And these developed 6 textile designs could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products.
Ancient metal objects with inlaid designs were mainly decorated using the wire inlay technique in which "V"- or "U"-shaped grooves were cut in a metal object and then filled with gold or silver. Previous studies on ancient metal objects featuring wire inlay generally attempted to ascertain the inlay techniques applied by examining photomicroscopes acquired during conservation treatment. However, they had limitations when examining wire inlay technique to the minute details. Wire inlay technique can be better investigated by enlarging X-ray films of relics using stereoscopic microscopy under transmitted light. The core processes of the wire inlay technique involve cutting grooves using a chisel and creating the inlay wires, but researchers hold varying opinions about the two processes. This study analyzed the entirety of the materials able to shed light on the main processes applied in Baekje wire inlay by examining X-ray films of relics through stereoscopic microscopy. This exhaustive research revealed that two types of techniques were used for wire inlay during the Baekje period. One is a plastic process of engraving dotted lines using a chisel and is found mostly in objects from the Cheonan and Gongju areas. The other is a cutting process that incises fine lines and was used mostly in relics from the Osan, Seosan, and Wanju areas. It is likely that the Baekje wire inlay techniques feature regional differences because the respective techniques were used or introduced by different groups of people.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.
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