• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.1-24
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• 2021

This study aimed to explore the fashion design and style features, and differences in BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet girl groups. A total of 469 fashion photos (132 BLACKPINK, 217 TWICE, 120 Red Velvet) focusing on 23 title songs (7 BLACKPINK, 9 TWICE, 7 Red Velvet) were collected. Photo classification work was carried out in accordance with the design analysis criteria and the results were derived by combining statistical analysis and content analysis. BLACKPINK's fashion design characteristics showed a lot of complex colors, shade tone, pure tone, contrast color coordination, stylistic pattern, slit, patchwork, checklist method, sexy and avant-garde images. TWICE's fashion design characteristics included warm color, complex color, tint tone, monotone, contrast color coordination, tone-on-tone, geometric & stylistic patterns, cotton, silk, a combination of the same material, frill, beads, ribbon decoration, blouse, skirt, and many romantic and ethnic images. Red Velvet's fashion design characteristics were a cold color, moderate tone, monotone, cotton, velvet, geometric pattern, zipper, sequins, T-shirt, pants, tie, belt, and many retro and active images. The fashion styles of BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet were as follows. BLACKPINK was divided into sexy avant-garde, sexy active, sexy romantic styles. TWICE was divided into romantic active, romantic classical, and romantic ethnic styles. Red Velvet was divided into retro active, retro sexy, and retro avant-garde styles.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.374-375
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.106-120
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• 2006

Using aesthetics of Rosencranz as the basis, this study contains the peculiarities of 'ugliness' and the obscured conceptual meaning of 'avant-garde', 'grotesque', and 'decadence' that are being utilized under ambiguous significance are defined through modern fashion and fashion of online game characters. Forms of 'ugliness' expressed in modern fashion and in games characters display distortion of form through incongruity, unbalance, disproportion and disharmony, and with this lack of form and expressional imprecision, both contain the elements of comical characteristics of vulgarity and repugnance. The difference in 'ugliness' between modern fashion and game character fashion is, the significance of 'ugliness' being expressed in modern fashion challenges new concepts by refusing tradition and recovering the human nature that has become turbid. On the other hand, 'ugliness' in game character fashion complements the story of the game that uses legends, fantasies or novels as its basis. Opposed to the significance of recovering human nature that is displayed in modern fashion, in order to terminate the opposing game character, the fashion of game characters exaggerates the form of modern fashion with added brutality. In addition, with the advantage of virtual reality that allows a more flexible expression than in the real word, images created are more sensational and excessive use of grotesque images are being expressed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.37-51
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.64-72
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the changing fashion image of the glossy materials including metal, leather, vinyl, latex, plastic etc. from 1960's to the present. Glossy materials used in the second half of the 20th century showed a restricted image combined with a specific social circumstance. They expressed a reflection of young and future-oriented space period of 1960s. Many designers like Paco Rabanne and Andre Courreges were concerned with the fashion of space age and expressed that image with leather and synthetic materials including silver leather, metal chain armor, and plastic appeared as the keynote of fashion. In 1970's, glossy material was the symbol of avant-garde and rebellious attitude by the punk fashion. They maximized glamourous look of 1980s, and cyber look with an expectation for a new millenium of 1990s. On the other side, glossy materials seem to be used as a source of various inspiration of fashion designer in the 21st century. Also, some of the past images, for example space look and glamourous look, are revived in the 21 st century by the form of modified design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2017

Fashion film has become a significant communication medium in the $21^{st}$ century. Fashion film, that tells unique quality stories, is a means of communicating brand value emotionally. To examine characteristics of storytelling according to types of fashion film, this study categorizes fashion film and investigates storytelling elements in terms of content, form, and communication. For methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concept of storytelling and types of fashion film storytelling. Empirical research was conducted on 32 fashion films from 2007 to recent years of 2017. Results are as follow. First, theatrical fashion film, based on linear narrative structure and closed-ending, is characterized content-based storytelling. Second, avant-garde fashion film, based on unconventional and experimental cinematic techniques, is characterized form-based storytelling. Finally, documentary fashion film that minimizes distortion and reproduces reality of designers' originality, refers to interactive communication-based storytelling which using digital technologies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.181-192
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to clarify the expression of conceptual image by which the modern graphic artists use for creating new visual images and the characteristics in expression of the major fashion images in fashion illustration. In the present study, major findings on the basis of the analysis of expression of visual images in fashion illustration since 1980s are as follow: The conceptual image expression in the visual arts is based on the eight techniques. They are dual image, operation of image, copying·reproduction of image, deconstruction of image, pictorial image, symbolization of image, mystification of image, and making humorous image. Since 1980s, the major fashion images in fashion illustration are mainly classified as classic image, humor image, fantastic image, natural image, avant-garde image, simple image, casual image and feminine image. The characteristics in expression of these images in fashion illustration are; 1) fortification of dual image in classic image, 2) activation in humor image 3) grotesque fantastic image, 4) the modernization of natural image, etc. In addition that, the image of avant-garde is expressed by Postermodernism, Deconstructionism, Techno etc. since 1980s. Also, simple image of the modern composition, casual image of daily life, and feminine image which is emphasized with eroticism are also included in these characteristic in expression of images since 1980s.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.287-299
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• 2002

Post-modernism exists with different shapes in overall cultural phenomena. Among the creative methods of composing post-modernism, there are representation, parody, plural coding, trans avant-garde etc. Summing up the influence of creative method of post-modernism on modem fashion led to the following results. 1. The phenomenon appears that value and valuelessness are easily reversed, and things with historical and traditional meanings are being ignored. 2. The boundary between higher culture and public culture is being disorganized, and mixed imitation phenomenon ignoring the differences between male and female is emerging 3. The mental and historial aspects in fashion pattern are highly thought of and the trend to understand human body from the various angles emerges. 4. In the consumer-oriented society, it appears in the form of meanings to achieve the self-achievement in individual life, to express one's idea and desire in the esthetical point of views. 5. It shows that through arranging the striking things and the distorted things, it takes the compromised method of re-appreciating the existing ideas. The phenomena in the post-modernism occurring in fashion design forced the concept of the uniformed existing fashion to be changed, creating a various fashions. That can just be called the dehumanization trend in the era of post-modernism, which is the most important formative feature in modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.94-112
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• 2005

This study focuss on the futurism expressed in Paco Rabanne's works. Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. First, Light, one of the most important element in Paco Rabanne's fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Second, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne's fashion include surrealism, op art and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant-garde style represents the influence of surrealism. His experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with op art and kinetic art in the early 1960's which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Third, the characters of Paco Rabanne's works are the harmony of technology and the beauty oh machine by the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles and represent and movement,and the innovational creative methods, voluptuous beauty.