• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2003년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.160-165
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• 2003

Art of today is expressed in various images incorporated in industrial development and visible in industrial parks, modern cities. Avant garde art and modernism brought abstract and conceptual art into conflict in the early 20th century and they absorbed elements of each other and grew into post modernism, which emerged in the 1960s and is still current. The avant garde challenged what was lofty and sometimes opposed modernism and sometimes fed it in cycles until post modernism was established. 'Trans avant garde', which, unlike modernism asserted individual expression, also appeared in the 1970s. Trans avant garde is spiritual art in which the artist's conversation with his soul returns. This study examines the readjustments the trans avant garde is making in its relationship with the dominant ethos of different values and offers the world art with important spiritual beauty. Trans avant garde art takes many forms, from thing to huge, which are manifested every where in architecture, interior design and everyday life.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.180-192
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• 2008

The historian called Peter Burger divided it into historical avant-garde before and after the first World War (Dadaism, Futurist, Geometric Abstract, etc.) and Neo- avant-garde during the period of forming social foundation that would be ready to accept new forms of art in the USA, the center of capitalism, after the 2nd World War such as pop art and conceptual art including the then emerging avant-garde minimal art. Meanwhile, he interpreted that Neo- avant-garde succeeded the spirit of historical avant-garde. For modem furniture, the avant-garde terminologies are discussed from the aspect of epistemology or symbolism. On the other hand, they would be exclusively used for advertising slogans, however, it is considered as difficult due to vague terms or their characteristics. This study relates the points of historians such as Peter Burger for theoretical proposal and Richard Kostelanetz's point for formal issues, and contracts and arranges the avant-garde terminologies and its characteristics to the meaning of "getting out of the present decadent trend - aiming for future", "transcending the present aesthetic custom - renovation" and "violating the rules already established in the process of entering new areas - freshness of unfairness". The study was meaningful in providing fundamental clues based on the historical discussion and artists for Neo- avant-garde in the 1960s, that is, the mainstream of design at the end of the 20th century in the period when an avant-garde oriented alternative in the 21st century design has been sincerely required overflowed with the fin de siecle phenomenon.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• 한국디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국디자인학회 2005년도 춘계 학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.156-157
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• 2005

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2003

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Sonia Delaunay′s works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration. One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Sonia Delaunay′s art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts" are among the earliest example of the aesthetic. In Delaunay′s geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of "simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. Colour as well as Collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity. Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.47-58
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• 2000

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Soma Delaunay's works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration, One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Soma Delaunay's art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts"are among the earliest example of the aesthete. In Delaunay's geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of"simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. colour as well as collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity, Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.rant breadth of the execution.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.102-107
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• 2022

The emergence of independent cinema in the United States in the 1960s was the earliest sign of postmodernism in the country, which was often referred to as "underground cinema". The works, in a counter-cultural stance, overturned the thought of depth of traditional art cinema, not exploring the meaningful relationship between form and content in terms of artistic technique, but creating an aesthetic that echoed the "Pop Art" of the time by collaging established means of expression with traditional and fashionable ones in a consumerist manner. In this paper, American independent cinema was examined, firstly by analyzing the local and external factors that contributed to its rise. Secondly, two genres of independent cinema core paradigm, "underground cinema" and "pop cinema" were focused on, as a way of demonstrating the attention and influence that independent cinema has gained. Finally, we found that independent cinemas are also seeking for alternative exploration and diverse expressions in the context of the times.