The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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The avant-garde expressive characteristics of Rei Kawakubo's Collection - A focus on Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the in-between -

Rei Kawakubo Collection에 나타난 아방가르드 표현 특성 - Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the in-between를 중심으로 -

  • Shin, Haram (Dept. of Clothing, Sungshin University) ;
  • Yum, Misun (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Sungshin University)
  • 신하람 (성신여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 염미선 (성신여자대학교 의류산업학과)
  • Received : 2017.10.26
  • Accepted : 2017.12.14
  • Published : 2017.12.31
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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

Keywords

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