• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1550-1559
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to measure middle aged men's bodies around the ages of thirty-five through filly-five, whose age-group undergoes drastic changes on their body shapes. Further, body shapes are grouped based on the measurements, and pattern making methods are presented in order to effectively make up for the undesirable body features of middle-aged men. In order to develop patterns fit for middle aged men's body shapes, the regression which reflects physical characteristics was applied for the experimental shirts pattern, instead of comparative patterns which applies the same equation. For the two body types classified above(Bend-forward Type and Lean-back Type), correlation among the factors necessary for pattern design was considered and the regression was formularized accordingly. To validate the regression, the same amount of ease as in the comparative patterns was applied to the chest girth, and reasonable ease to the armhole depth and neck girth. In this way, experimental shirts patterns fit for the body types were developed. After the modification through the wearing test, the experimental shirts pattern was completed as herein.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1019-1030
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• 2011

The aim of this study was to develop a pattern of flight attendant uniform shirts to provide better comfort for their work postures. Flight attendants' work postures were evaluated to determine the problems of clothing and mobility during their work. The pattern of the flight attendants' uniform shirt was altered by applying dynamic wearing ease(DWE). DWE was calculated from four standardized dynamic postures and a static posture. An experimental garment was made with the altered postures. The researcher redesigned the pattern of the uniform shirts, which minimizes physical limitations in movements. The fit and mobility of the shirts were evaluated. Results of this study are as follows. First, the five representative work postures were selected by "clothing stress" and "repetitiveness." These postures included raised arms, twisting midriff and shoulder postures. Five representative postures were selected by using the ergonomic posture assessment device index(OWAS). Second, the experimental garment was developed by applying DWE across the back and at armhole depth, back length, and side length. Third, the fit and mobility of the experimental garments and the original uniform shirts were compared at the flight working environment set and 5 dynamic body postures of raising arms. The experimental garments made with an altered pattern provided better fit and mobility than the original sample shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.632-656
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• 2024

This study presents a pattern drafting method for designing a slim-fit blouse for women in their twenties with a D cup bra size and various bust sizes within the standard body type range using the 3D virtual clothing system. Three participants were scanned using a body scanner, and three similar princess blouse patterns were selected. A total of nine virtual blouses were produced, with three sets made for each participant. In the initial evaluations, Pattern C received the highest score. The second pattern was designed by mending the flaws in Pattern C. However, in the eases of the front and back busts, back width and back waist were still insufficient and sleeve length was short. In the similarity evaluation between virtual and real blouses, the overall appearance was similar. Most of the corrected elements received significantly higher ratings in the third real blouse. However, the ease of the rear bust area was slightly large. In general, when drafting blouse patterns for women with large bust sizes, it is essential to increase the ease in the front bust, reduce the ease in the back bust, enlarge the waist dart, and decrease the armhole depth.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.3 s.35
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• pp.183-195
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• 1990

The author has studied the effect of clothes design to mask the dorsal curvature that is one of the commonest changes in elderly women. Body measurements including the body type and the status of dorsal curvature were perfor-med on 153 women of over 60 years of age, and then a body form to fit to the mean measure-ments was made to evaluate the effects of various designs to it. With 31 pattern designs modified by changing in their slash lines and gathers using darts, the diminishing effect of the rounded back were evaluated by means of sensory test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: I . Results from the body measurements 1) The mean body type in elderly women was that of obesity. 2) With the advancement of age, the angle to indicate the degree of dorsal curvature as well as the angle to indicate the posture are increased. II . Concerning to the clothes design to diminish the shape of dorsal curvature 1) Among the designs by the position of darts, the basic pattern (Fig. 5-1-(1)) showed the best effect to mask the shape of dorsal curvature. 2) Out of the applied designs of princess lines, that in which the slash line is pointing toward the shoulder point (Fig. 5-2-(1)) seemed to be most effective. 3) What has angled princess line (Fig. 5-3-(1)) had the most diminishing effect among the waist darts and armhole princess lines. 4) Among the V-shaped designs, the slashed at the shoulder point (Fig. 5-4-(1)) had the best effect to lessen the shape of the dorsal cuuature. 5) Wider angle yoke had better effect to the narrow angle one among the designs with straight yoke, and that with downward direction (Fig. 5-5-(1)) showed the best effect. 6) Between straight wide angle yoke and curved yoke, that of curved one with downward direction (Fig. 5-6-(1)) had better effect as far as the masking effect of dorsal curvature is concerned. 7) Gathers around the neck showed better effect to those around the shoulder, and the more amount of gathers (Fig. 5-7-(1)), there was better effect. 8) The design with midline gathers at the level of horizontal slash line of armhole (Fig. 5-8-(1)) showed better effect to that with seperated gathers. 9) In case of design with gathers at the horizontal line of armhole, it showed the better effect with less amount of gathers in midline ones, but with more amount in the side ones. 10) Considering all 7 different designs with better effect in covering the shape of dorsal curvature, it was evident that the design with gathers was far better than the design with application of slash lines.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.