• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.626-634
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• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.13-21
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• 2021

In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.11
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• pp.223-232
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• 2001

This study, by explaining the relationship between mechanical properties and clothing formability, aims to propose functional data for tailoring performance of fabrics of good tailorability. The KES-FB system was used to measure factors of mechanical properties and also the technique of stepwise-block-regression method was applied to investigate relationship between functional properties and mechanical properties of men's shirks. As results of vasual inspection of men's shirts, it showed that good fabrics had higher value in the LT, bending properties, shear properties and RC than poor fabrics in Total Appearance Value(TAV). And finally, A formula was obtained for calculating the VIA of men's shirts from functional properties which were calculated from the mechanical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
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• v.15 no.7
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• pp.36-43
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• 1998

Surface roughness of cold rolled steel sheet as well as the coating technique itself is quite important in obtaining high image clarity of electronic products and car outer panels. Especially, surface characteristics of steel sheet have acquired increasing attention from the steel and automotive industries. While the influence of such characteristics on paintability formability and painted surface appearance is important in defining steel surface requirements for automotive industries. Therefore this paper is dedicated primarily to the issue of paint appearance and reviews for improvement of roughness and peak count about the surface of work roll for the actual temper mill. The conclusions were obtained as follows ; 1) Roughness and peak count about the surface of steel sheet is strongly affected by surface condition of work roll. 2) The electro-discharge textured roll has more uniform roughness distribution than shot blasted roll and it's painted appearance of steel sheet has more improvement than that of the shot blasted because it has more harmonic wave roughness, and the higher peak count of surface roughness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Technology of Plasticity Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.379-381
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• 2009

In designing full vehicle, crash safety, fuel efficiency, exhaust gas, and driving stability are very important factors. Especially, automotive wheel which supports total vehicle weight is a critical component in view of driving stability. Most of automotive wheel have been manufactured for beautiful appearance by using aluminum alloy in domestic industry. However, the amount of automotive steel wheel used are on an increasing trend according to developing the advanced high strength steel with good formability property recently. In this study, the circumferential deviation of rim with various thickness and yield strength was investigated. The formability evaluation of the rim was developed by using a finite element module furnished by Forge software.

• Design & Manufacturing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.49-55
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• 2020

Recently, when a new component of construction equipment is designed, a stamping process capable of producing parts having high appearance quality and precision has been gaining attention. However, in general, as it is developed based on existing parts made by welding metal sheets and tubes, frequent to die modification occurs, which increases the time and cost of developing new parts. Thus, it is necessary to reduce the cost by shortening the die development period. In this study, a stamping process was designed for the urea tank cover, which is a part for excavators, to reduce the die development period through sheet metal forming analysis. The stamping process was designed by determining the blank holding force after selecting the initial blank shape and size. The round value at the corner was modified such that formability is ensured. After selecting process parameters, the thickness reduction rate and spring-back effect were reviewed.