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Evaluation of Appearance Capacity of Fabrics for Men's Suit by FAST System  

Kim, Jung-Sook (Dept. of Beauty Care, Daegu Polytechnic College)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.8, no.5, 2006 , pp. 591-596 More about this Journal
Abstract
In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.
Keywords
men's suit; FAST-system; tailorbility; formability; overfeed rate;
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