• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.708-715
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• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to lay the foundation that middle aged woman takes care of more healthy, beautiful, attractive external features and prepares successful ageing on studying a difference of recognition between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype after we examine an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype in the object of about $40{\sim}50$ middle-aged woman, dwells in Seoul, is the main group of a home consumption socially. The result of comparing a difference between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype was showing that in case of a facial form, the group which their faces are an egg-shaped prefers an egg-shaped and the group which their faces are a round-shaped prefers a round-shaped. In case of a silhouette, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a shoulder's type, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a shoulder-waist line, all groups prefers a Y line most. In case of a breast's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a back's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a buttocks' form, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a leg's form, all groups prefers a normal type most. On putting together research result as yet, middle aged women wish a similar somatotype irrespective of an age, an obesity measurement and this means a recognition of making an effort to be beautiful is alike. Therefore, it is necessary to recognize a somatotype of middle aged women uprightly and it must be accomplished a continuous, systematic consultation and education about a weight-control on exercising and not to mention of making a desirable eating habit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.725-742
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• 2016

In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women's body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type's 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.

• 지능정보연구
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

최근 딥러닝은 오디오, 텍스트 및 이미지 데이터와 같은 비 체계적인 데이터를 대상으로 다양한 추정, 분류 및 예측 문제에 사용 및 적용되고 있다. 특히, 의류산업에 적용될 경우 딥러닝 기법을 활용한 의류 인식, 의류 검색, 자동 제품 추천 등의 심층 학습을 기반으로 한 응용이 가능하다. 이 때의 핵심모형은 합성곱 신경망을 사용한 이미지 분류이다. 합성곱 신경망은 입력이 전달되고 출력에 도달하는 과정에서 가중치와 같은 매개 변수를 학습하는 뉴런으로 구성되고, 영상 분류에 가장 적합한 방법론으로 사용된다. 기존의 의류 이미지 분류 작업에서 대부분의 분류 모형은 의류 이미지 자체 또는 전문모델 착용 의류와 같이 통제된 상황에서 촬영되는 온라인 제품 이미지를 사용하여 학습을 수행한다. 하지만 본 연구에서는 통제되지 않은 상황에서 촬영되고 사람들의 움직임과 다양한 포즈가 포함된 스트릿 패션 이미지 또는 런웨이 이미지를 분류하려는 상황을 고려하여 분류 모형을 훈련시키는 효과적인 방법을 제안한다. 이동성을 포착하는 런웨이 의류 이미지로 모형을 학습시킴으로써 분류 모형의 다양한 쿼리 이미지에 대한 적응력을 높일 수 있다. 모형 학습 시 먼저 ImageNet 데이터셋을 사용하여 pre-training 과정을 거치고 본 연구를 위해 수집된 32 개 주요 패션 브랜드의 2426개 런웨이 이미지로 구성된 데이터셋을 사용하여 fine-tuning을 수행한다. 학습 과정의 일반화를 고려해 10번의 실험을 수행하고 제안된 모형은 최종 테스트에서 67.2 %의 정확도를 기록했다. 본 연구 모형은 쿼리 이미지가 런웨이 이미지, 제품 이미지 또는 스트릿 패션 이미지가 될 수 있는 다양한 분류 환경에 적용될 수 있다. 구체적으로는 패션 위크에서 모바일 어플리케이션 서비스를 통해 브랜드 검색을 용이하게 하는 서비스를 제공하거나, 패션 잡지사의 편집 작업에 사용되어 브랜드나 스타일을 분류하고 라벨을 붙일 수 있으며, 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 아이템 정보를 제공하거나 유사한 아이템을 추천하는 등의 다양한 목적에 적용될 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1027-1039
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• 1995

Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.