• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1177-1192
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• 2023

This study aims to expand the scope of use for relics by applying the patterns and characteristics of embroidered fabric pieces, such as gold foil, excavated from the Mireuksa Temple Site in Iksan for fashion products. The artifact was a ra decorated with flower and vine patterns, embroidery using gold and red thread, and the unique stitching of Baekje. The pattern was reconstructed, as the embroidery was not well-preserved. This study used two types of gold-foil techniques: laser-cut and stone-stamp gold foil. Considering practicality, the gloss, toughness, custom production possibility, and design implementation were emphasized. The form of the laser-cut gold foil could be transformed; however, a recognition problem with the machine increased the thickness of the stitching. It was used for half-finished goods and commercial casual fashion. The stone-stamp gold foil was finely implemented, but the design was difficult to change. It was used for half-finished silk fabric for making hanbok po and lattice-patterned silk skirts. Applying the developed gold foil to suitable clothing can further enhance the effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.69-89
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• 2024

In the era of globalization, cultural appropriation, stemming from the interaction and clash of diverse cultures, remains inadequately defined, leading to controversy in many designs. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for understanding cultural appropriation by comparing similar concepts and examining specific cases. It proposes methods for the rational use of traditional cultures in apparel to minimize controversy. Firstly, the study investigates the concept of cultural appropriation by exploring differences among related terms. Secondly, it examines instances of cultural appropriation in fashion through form, color, pattern, and material, drawing from papers and Google searches over the past decade. Thirdly, it categorizes representative cases by domestic and foreign fashion brands, analyzing the underlying reasons. The goal is to establish a theoretical foundation for developing culturally sensitive clothing products. Based on the findings, several measures are proposed: understanding and respecting cultural backgrounds through in-depth research on the history and significance of elements; collaborating with cultural groups and consulting experts for feedback; explaining the source of design inspiration to help consumers understand the cultural elements' meanings; avoiding the reinforcement of stereotypes and respecting cultural diversity and complexity; respecting intellectual property and ensuring moral and legal appropriateness; and learning from case studies of other designers' and brands' successes and failures.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.111-130
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• 2002

This study performed a structural questionnaire survey and non-structural interview of the ladies apparel manufacturers in Daegu on the qualification for the employees, skills required for job performance, job training, automatic manufacturing systems, and the use of computer. The results are as follows. 1. Almost all of the apparel manufacturing systems were Pair System, except one Line System in one company. In terms of outsourcing, most of the manufacturers answered “yes,” and in 1998 the outsourcing process was sewing, but in the year 2002, outsourcing has been increased :12 manufacturers(57.1%) outsourcing most of the processes except patterning, 3(14.3%) outsourcing the finish of sewing. 2. The workforce of 1998 and that of 2002 shows a significant difference(P＜. 01) between office work and management. The number of office workers has decreased from 15 down to 5.3 people. On the other hand, that of the management has slightly increased from 5.3 to 9.2 people. The number of the manual workers has decreased from 32.2 to 28.7 people. And the number of tailoring and patterning workers has slightly decreased, but the number has increased in sewing from 3.7 to 7.0 people. 3. The wage of an employee shows a significant difference between a sewing assistant(P＜. 01) and a production manager(P＜. 05), and the wage of a sewing assistant, in particular, has slightly raised from ￦905,000 to ￦1,054,000. 4. The qualifications required of employees are “cooperative human relations”(30.8％), “diligence,” and “ability for job analysis”(26.9％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 1998, and “ability for job analysis”(38.5％), “cooperative human relations”(34.6％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 2002. The areas for job openings are significantly different(P＜. 01) depending on the year. Job openings in the design section has increased from 1(3.8％) to 16 manufacturers (61.5％), and decreased in tailoring section from 22(84.6％) to 2 manufacturers(7.7％). Job openings in the sewing section have increased form 2(7.7％) to 6 manufacturers (23.1％). In terms of sex of the employees, there is a significant difference(P＜. 001). 19 companies(73.1％) wanted “male” in 1998, but 8 companies(30.8％) answered that they want “female” and 17 companies(65.4％) answered that “it does not matter.” About the educational background, there was a significant difference between the years. The number of the companies that want junior college graduates with an associate degree has increased(15 companies(57.7％). There was a significant difference(P＜. 05) in major of the employee. The number of the companies that want fashion majors has increased from 5(19.2％) to 20(76.9％). 5. In terms of job skills required, there was no significant difference. In 1998, “production skills” (46.2％) and “ability for job analysis” (26.9％) were required, and in 2002, “ability for job analysis” (42.3％) and “emotional skills” (26.9％). 6. In regard to training for job skills, “fashion professional training” has slightly decreased from 65.4％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, however, “training for job analysis” has slightly increased from 30.8％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, which indicates the fact that “fashion professional training” and “ability for job analysis” have been emphasized. 7. The number of the manufacturers purchased apparel CAD has increased from 1(3.8％) to 3(11.5％), and the number of the manufacturers that have no plan for purchase has increased from 16(61.5％) in 1998 to 15(57.7％), still taking up a big proportion. 8. About the use of computers in manufacturing, there is a significant difference(P＜. 05). The number of the manufacturers using computer has increased from 5(19.2％) to 15(57.7％) and that of the manufacturers which do not use computers has decreased from 17(57.7％) to 8(30.8％). 9. In the interviews with the owners of the manufacturers, they pointed that schools should give more weight on practical training courses, the invitation of experts in the specific field, complex production systems, training courses for sewing, field trip courses, and furthering specialty education, personality and vocational education.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.17-30
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the philosophy behind the Kasaya and its evolution through its clothing material colour structure and sewing. According to the study the results were as follows. 1. The philosophy behind the dressing of the Kasaya can be found in the Therefore wearing the Kasaya symbolizes the Buddhist philosophy of Jat'ailshisongbul ("Simultaneous attaining of Buddhahood for Everyone") 2. The material symbolizes endurance and contentiment by being satisfied with any kind of clothes may they be good or bad. The material of the kasaya comes to signify the harmony among the monk's community 3. The Kasaya uses peculiar colours and the prohibits the use of the five primary and seconary colous. This is to symbolize equality wherein there is no distinction between the noble and the mean. 4. The structure of the Kasaya according the takes the form of a field The Jo is cut lengthwise and divided in nine grades following the Mahayana tradition as written in the This idea reflects the philosophy of salvation of the Pure land thought. The Je has many Jang('long') and fex Dan('short') The meaning of this is that all living beings by self-cultivation can overcome the dirty law of the secular world and follow the way of the sage who have attained their Buddha nature. 5. With respect to the sewing after finishin the sewing the Jang and the Dan are combined together representing the interdependence between the holy person and the common person. Therefore the sewing ssymbolizes the interconnection among all living beings as it arise from the "conditional causation" law. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Nahayana Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As a result the Dasaya came to signify the "field image". The field-image symbolized by the kasaya came to signify the "heart-field" of all living beings. The "heart-field" by its cultivation is field with blessings. Therefore from the sanghati the Nine Grade the evolution and changes in the designs of the kasaya through the different periods of history became clearly an expression how it is possible for anybody to attend the Buddha nature. This changes also show how the Buddhist precepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.ecepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.239-248
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• 2010

This paper describes a collaborative project between academia and industry which focused on improving the marketing and product development strategies for two private label apparel brands of a large regional department store chain in the southeastern United States. The goal of the project was to revitalize product lines of the two brands by incorporating student ideas for new solutions, thereby giving the students practical experience with a real-life industry situation. There were a number of key players involved in the project. A privately-owned department store chain based in the southeastern United States which was seeking an academic partner had recognized a need to update two existing private label brands. They targeted middle-aged consumers looking for casual, moderately priced merchandise. The company was seeking to change direction with both packaging and presentation, and possibly product design. The branding and product development divisions of the company contacted professors in an academic department of a large southeastern state university. Two of the professors agreed that the task would be a good fit for their classes - one was a junior-level Intermediate Brand Management class; the other was a senior-level Fashion Product Development class. The professors felt that by working collaboratively on the project, students would be exposed to a real world scenario, within the security of an academic learning environment. Collaboration within an interdisciplinary team has the advantage of providing experiences and resources beyond the capabilities of a single student and adds "brainpower" to problem-solving processes (Lowman 2000). This goal of improving the capabilities of students directed the instructors in each class to form interdisciplinary teams between the Branding and Product Development classes. In addition, many universities are employing industry partnerships in research and teaching, where collaboration within temporal (semester) and physical (classroom/lab) constraints help to increase students' knowledge and experience of a real-world situation. At the University of Tennessee, the Center of Industrial Services and UT-Knoxville's College of Engineering worked with a company to develop design improvements in its U.S. operations. In this study, Because should be lower case b with a private label retail brand, Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst's (1999) revised Retail Apparel Product Development Model was used by the product development and brand management teams. This framework was chosen because it addresses apparel product development from the concept to the retail stage. Two classes were involved in this project: a junior level Brand Management class and a senior level Fashion Product Development class. Seven teams were formed which included four students from Brand Management and two students from Product Development. The classes were taught the same semester, but not at the same time. At the beginning of the semester, each class was introduced to the industry partner and given the problem. Half the teams were assigned to the men's brand and half to the women's brand. The teams were responsible for devising approaches to the problem, formulating a timeline for their work, staying in touch with industry representatives and making sure that each member of the team contributed in a positive way. The objective for the teams was to plan, develop, and present a product line using merchandising processes (following the Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst model) and develop new branding strategies for the proposed lines. The teams performed trend, color, fabrication and target market research; developed sketches for a line; edited the sketches and presented their line plans; wrote specifications; fitted prototypes on fit models, and developed final production samples for presentation to industry. The branding students developed a SWOT analysis, a Brand Measurement report, a mind-map for the brands and a fully integrated Marketing Report which was presented alongside the ideas for the new lines. In future if the opportunity arises to work in this collaborative way with an existing company who wishes to look both at branding and product development strategies, classes will be scheduled at the same time so that students have more time to meet and discuss timelines and assigned tasks. As it was, student groups had to meet outside of each class time and this proved to be a challenging though not uncommon part of teamwork (Pfaff and Huddleston, 2003). Although the logistics of this exercise were time-consuming to set up and administer, professors felt that the benefits to students were multiple. The most important benefit, according to student feedback from both classes, was the opportunity to work with industry professionals, follow their process, and see the results of their work evaluated by the people who made the decisions at the company level. Faculty members were grateful to have a "real-world" case to work with in the classroom to provide focus. Creative ideas and strategies were traded as plans were made, extending and strengthening the departmental links be tween the branding and product development areas. By working not only with students coming from a different knowledge base, but also having to keep in contact with the industry partner and follow the framework and timeline of industry practice, student teams were challenged to produce excellent and innovative work under new circumstances. Working on the product development and branding for "real-life" brands that are struggling gave students an opportunity to see how closely their coursework ties in with the real-world and how creativity, collaboration and flexibility are necessary components of both the design and business aspects of company operations. Industry personnel were impressed by (a) the level and depth of knowledge and execution in the student projects, and (b) the creativity of new ideas for the brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.1-14
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• 2017

Cycling has become a popular leisure activity, and many cycling enthusiasts have used cycling clothes as a form of expression, which often comes in wide range of colors. The study shows the importance of color in cycling clothing to meet the emotional needs of consumers. Furthermore, this study aims to provide comparative analysis between color of domestic and overseas cycling clothing brands, and color preference of Korean consumers in order to provide data, which can be used in satisfying consumers' needs for personal expression and emotional demands. Thus, the study expects to identify consumers' satisfaction for cycling clothing. The consumers were categorized by the frequency of cycling and their interest in fashion, and the following categories were made:potential consumers, casual cyclists with low fashion involvement, casual cyclists with high fashion involvement and frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement. Consumers preferred dark colors for their cycling clothing including jacket, top and pants, while 'frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement' preferred more diverse colors and tones. In the cycling clothing market, white and black were major colors, while red, orange and blue were major colors of chromatic color. In terms of shade, dark shade dominated the market. Comparing between preferred color and preferred product color, black was preferred for both, but no other colors showed such tendency. This study is based on empirical analysis and verification of color, which is the emotional element appealing to specific and segmented sports-apparel market. The study revealed that the data could be applicable to the design of future products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.245-256
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• 2018

This study considers application types and meanings of fashion engineering by analyzing CuteCircuit. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The application type of fashion engineering shown in CuteCircuit is first, electronic fashion, which attaches LED or WL on the surface of clothes to express the decorative function in clothes as optical light change, ultimately performing one-dimensional function. Second, interactive fashion is a medium in which clothing connects human beings with other human beings with sensors that can recognize the changes in tactile or movement with the wearer or with a light source that can visualize the emotional changes of the wearer. Third, scientific fashion has emerged as a new type of fashion in which new materials introduced in the field of engineering are fused with clothing to expand functionality and aesthetics. The meanings of fashion engineering in CuteCircuit is first, trying to conceptualize a new beauty as an open fashion that can freely change with the creation of a dual beauty by combining analog and digital sensibility. Second is the external representation of human psychological change or emotional exchange, which helps to form a consensus by understanding and exchanging emotions of different people. Third, reorganization of apparel pursuing integrated value appeared. Clothing, as a connection body in which the human body and the mechanical environment are combined with each other, is reestablished as a product of variable body that can embody an integrated value that includes various characteristics and can be diversified appropriately in any circumstance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.