• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.130-137
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• 2013

The percentage of overweight people has increased in older people due to the change of body shape (including pregnancy and giving birth for women). Obesity is accompanied by body shape changes; subsequently, there are more pattern design considerations compared to standard body shapes. This paper classifies the upper body shape of overweight women in Korea, analyzes features by body shape and proposes basic pattern design data that reflects the features of plus-size women body shapes. The data on 540 subjects in the overweight group (from 20 to 69 years old)whose BMI was over 25 was selected. The following features by shape were identified in accordance with the upper body shape classification of overweight women. Body Shape1 had lower body obesity with long stature and arms in proportion to the trunk length and represented 22.2% of the subjects. Body Shape2 had most parts near average sizes for overweight body shapes with short height and arms that represented 37.6% of the subjects (the highest ratio). Body Shape3 was the smallest body shape in the four groups with the most distinct body figure and represented 30.7% of the subjects. Body Shape4 (9.4% of the subjects)was the upper body obesity type (the fattest group)and with of the waist bigger abdominal obesity type.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.149-161
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present the effective activation of apparel CAD system and for this, the investigation of actual condition of CAD using companies and comparative inspection with the advanced study were carefully considered. The results were as follows : 1. The investigation result of the system using enterprises is that the direct effect from the operation of the CAD system after its introduction was the promptness, ad the indirect effect of it was the growth of operation level and operating reliance. 2. The problem originated from the system was the uncertainty of employer effectiveness and the financing source for it when introduced, and the lack of consciousness of it when operated. 3. The using level in pattern manufacturing function was lower than that in grading and marking. Therefore, as the full automation in CAD system is a part of CIM construction and the direction to which apparel companies should go, a firmly connected system between management & the persons in charge in apparel companies, facility supplying companies, universities & other educational institutes, and the Government should be duly constructed first of all n order to achieve this aim.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.327-348
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• 2019

Among the many methods to make sustainable garments, convertible garments have the potential to change style and function that allow consumers to keep and use garments longer with the possibility of enhancing sustainability. This research analyzes consumer preferences in changeable design options for convertible dresses and the consumers' influence on environmentally responsible apparel consumption (ERC) behaviors on their preferences regarding changeable design options of dresses, which are popular items. An online survey collected data from a convenient sample of 321 female college students from four universities in the United States. Data were analyzed using IBM SPSS through descriptive analysis, cluster analysis, and independent samples t-test. There were significant differences between high and low ERC groups in design preferences that considered important aspects of purchasing, using convertible dresses, and purchase intentions. Detailed differences among sub-groups were analyzed. Designers are encouraged to make tying/folding/wrapping dresses with changes of size/fit, dress length, or color/pattern. The results are beneficial for apparel designers when developing convertible dresses with the guidance of consumers' design preferences and differences according to ERC levels.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.176-183
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• 1997

To develop the bodice pattern of the master size of the established size chart which was suggested in the former studies, the wearing experiment was practiced. According to the result, developed pattern design in this study boys\` bodily characteristics were reflected fully. And especially, New pattern design method was suggested at chest circumference, neck circumference, arm circumference, chest breadth, and center front line. The study results were put into the database in order to apply apparel CAD system, and they could be easily used in standardization work of design pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1399-1408
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• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.