• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.282-297
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• 1996

The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1252-1261
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.722-740
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• 2017

This study was conducted to offer basic data that can be used in a clothing industry for active senior males that are emerging as a new consumer bracket in a rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted an analysis of 'younger' older male body types based on data from the 6th Size Korea. As a result of the body type analysis of 'younger' older males who are considered active seniors in comparison to 'middle' aged males, the former's height items became shorter compared to 'middle' aged males, but circumference items were bigger. Males aged 35-69, who are 'middle' aged males and 'younger' old males were divided into three body types in this study: Type1- small body type with protruded belly, compared to weight. Type 2- body type of slim torso with wide shoulder-back widths. Type3- big body type overall with tall height and heavy weight. According to body type distribution by age group, the middle-aged males had Type2 body type the most. The younger-old males showed type1 the most. There is a need to reflect the body types of active senior male characteristics in apparel pattern design because the current fits are not appropriate if active senior males wear clothing targeted for males aged 30-50.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.969-981
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• 2010

This study explains the consumer acceptance of smart clothing using the extended Technology Acceptance Model (TAM); in addition, it compares the difference in the path hypotheses of the perceived group and nonperceived group from the aspect of the extended TAM. A total of 815 copies of questionnaire were collected from a web-based survey in March 2009. Structural equation modeling was used to examine the entire pattern of intercorrelations among the constructs and to test related propositions using an AMOS 5.0 package. The fitness of the extended TAM explains the process of the adaptation of smart clothing. Technology Innovation (TI) and Clothing Involvement (CI) were confirmed as antecedent variables to affect TAM. In the perceived group, Technology Innovation (TI) and Clothing Involvement (CI) showed significant impacts on the Perceived Ease of Use (PEOU) and Perceived Usefulness (PU) while Technology Innovation (TI) did not influence the Perceived Ease of Use (PEOU) in the non-perceived group. Perceived Ease of Use (PEOU) influenced the Perceived Usefulness (PU) and indirectly influenced Attitude (A) through the Perceived Usefulness (PU) in both groups. In addition, Perceived Usefulness (PU) did not influence Acceptance Intention (AI) but indirectly affected Acceptance Intention (AI) through Attitude (A). Therefore, Attitude (A) was found to be an important parameter in the adaptation of smart clothing in both groups. This finding implies that consumers first perceive the usefulness of smart clothing, then take favorable attitudes towards the smart clothing, and finally have the intention to adopt it. Strategies for publishing and informing consumers of the functions of smart clothing and usefulness in life are necessary; in addition, understanding what useful values they expect from the clothing is also crucial.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

Advance development of the internet has brought significant changes to the distribution structure of the fashion industry, resulting in decreased sales in Road shops and sudden growth of online fashion specialty shopping malls. As detailed analysis on internet fashion shopping malls is necessary in order to make a future projection on changes in the fashion industry, this thesis aims to study the color, fabric / pattern, silhouette, item / detail, image, etc of 2008 S/S apparel fashion style sold in the top ten shopping malls, selected in terms of sales volume and awareness. The results were further analyzed to characterize each individual shopping malls, upon which the design was compared with the five main trends for the season provided by three fashion research agencies in order to study the level of trend acceptance. Studies showed that 'Romantic Sake' trend was most widely accepted, followed by 'Eco Nature' which most reflected the characteristics of Spring. 'Modern Ethenic' trend was most aggressively accepted at more upscale shopping malls targeting older demographic, while " Play Urban' was highly accepted by shopping malls specializing in young casual. Due to the disadvantage of not being able to try on the items before purchase, styles following the 'City Luxe' trend featuring fitted suits showed the lowest trend acceptance. Amongst the design elements, color was most widely accepted.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.336-345
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• 2019

This study evaluated the preference and wearing characteristics of existing fitness compression wear for elderly women and identified the problems and improvements of existing fitness apparel. Preference and wearing characteristics for 6 types (A-F) of upper and lower fitness compression wear were evaluated. Photos and drawings as well as the preferred designs and details were investigated after presenting the evaluation clothing. Evaluations were made on a 5 point Likert scale for the fitness, allowance, pressure, ease of movement, fabric material, and overall satisfaction after wearing. The design preference indicated that B type (26.6%) and C type (23.4%) were preferred in the top with C, E and F type preferred to the same ratio of 19.4% in the slacks. The fitness and allowance amount of the top B type were the most appropriate (${\geq}4$), the C type was in close contact (2.86), and the F type was inadequate in the neck circumference (1.77). The feeling of pressure was high in the waist, abdomen, thighs, and knees. The area where the elderly people want to improve their strength was the legs; in addition, a pattern design was needed to strengthen leg muscles when designing fitness compression wear. However, a design with excessive adhesion due to a muscle support band was shown to be not preferred. Therefore, depending on the activity, it is necessary to develop a fitness compression wear that applies an optimum stretching ratio of fabric based on body surface area changes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Land and Housing Review
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.559-568
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• 2011

This study aims at listing up those manufacturing activities sensitive to regional characteristics by analyzing locational hierarchy designed on the urban rank-size rule. This locational hierarchy by manufacturing activities is expected to provide a ground for the proper supply of an industrial complex. The analysis of the locational hierarchy by manufacturing activities can work as a method of observing the characteristics of the distribution of location for each economic activity by analyzing the trend in the change of manufacturing location. Consequently, it can be used to determine the appropriate manufacturing activities for the industrial complex of a particular region. Here, the locational hierarchy is analyzed depending on the base of the basic local government such as Gun(district level) and Si(city level), and manufacturing activities are categorized by Korea Standard Industry Code. Those activities demonstrating growth pattern are Manufacture of Electronic Equipment(KSIC 26), Manufacture of Medical Precision Optical Instruments Watch(KSIC 27), Manufacture of Motor Vehicles (KSIC 30, 31), etc. With proper infrastructures, these activities can be located everywhere. Those sectors on the decline pattern in the locational hierarchy can be summarized as Manufacture of Tobacco Products(KSIC 12), Manufacture of wearing apparel Fur Articles(KSIC 14), etc. Those sectors scattered widely in the locational hierarchy are Manufacture of Food Products(KSIC 10), Manufacture of Coke Petroleum Products(KSIC 19), Manufacture of Chemical Products(KSIC 20), Manufacture of Electronic Equipment(KSIC 26). These particular manufacturing activities can be operated in those regions in a sufficient supply of unskilled workers regardless of proper infrastructures. Those activities that have a tendency to reconcentrate on larger cities are Manufacture of Textiles(KSIC 13), Manufacture of Wearing Apparel Clothing Fur Articles(KSIC 14), Manufacture of Other Transport Equiptmen(KSIC 31). In most cases, these sectors tend to favor their existing agglomerated areas and concentrate around large cities. Therefore, it is inefficient to promote these sectors in small or medium-sized cities or underdeveloped regions. The establishment of developmental strategies of an industrial complex can gain greater competitiveness by observing such characteristics of the locational hierarchy.