• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.52-62
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.3 s.151
• /
• pp.378-385
• /
• 2006

To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.722-734
• /
• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.118-129
• /
• 2010

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.45-53
• /
• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.101-110
• /
• 2008

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.7
• /
• pp.171-191
• /
• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.385-399
• /
• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.8
• /
• pp.1322-1331
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.