• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2022

Retinaldehyde (RA), vitamin A derivative, is an intermediate between retinol and retinoic acid and has an excellent wrinkle improving effect. In this study, Drug-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposome (DCL) was used to enhance the stability and skin penetration of RA. The complex of RA and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) was prepared by the freeze-drying method, and the presence or absence of inclusion of retinal was confirmed by UV-Vis spectrometer, FT-IR and SEM images. RA was captured in HP-β-CD about 95.6% on 1 : 15 (w/w). The retinal-HP-β-CD complex was encapsulated in liposomes using a homomixer and microfluidizer, with an average particle size of 215 ± 4.2 nm and a zeta potential of -31.2 ± 0.5 mv. In the evaluation of the degradation stability of RA, degradation rate of RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes in water was 1.8% higher than RA-liposome (5.8%), RA-HP-β-CD complex (9.7%) and RA alone (37.6%). RA cream (0.05% RA) including RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes was prepared for clinical test with wrinkle-improving efficacy and skin dermis denseness evaluated for 2 or 4 weeks. RA cream showed a significant wrinkle improving effect without skin irritation. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the double stabilization technology using the DCL system contribu tes to the effect of improving skin wrinkles by increasing the stabilization of retinal.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.196-202
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• 2007

Skin wrinkles are associated with collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) activity. This study was carried out to select optimum ratio of 3 herbs in skin health food for anti-wrinkle. Human dermal fibroblast cell was incubated with experimental samples, which were Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts (ER), Torilis fructus water extracts (WT), Corni fructus water extracts (WC) and their mixtures (WM1, WM3). And then we determined effects on collagen biosynthesis, MMP-1 activity and SOD activity in human dermal fibroblast cell. In control group, collagen biosynthesis was amounted at 474.8 ng/ml and 533.9 ng/ml, 539.3 ng/ml, 514.1 ng/ml in ER, WT and WC respectively. Furthermore, WM3 (KTNG0345) was increased to 561.45 ng/ml. MMP-1 activity of ER, WT, WC, WM1 were determined to 31.9 ng/ml, 32.85 ng/ml, 32.0 ng/ml, 31.3 ng/ml and WM3 (KTNG0345) was decreased to 28.85 ng/ml. In addition, the experimental samples showed a antioxidative activities. From this results, we conclude that Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts, Torilis fructus water extracts, Corni fructus water extracts and their mixtures have a anti-wrinkle effect and WM3 (KTNG0345) may be regarded as an optimum composition for synergic effect producing. The standardized components of KTNG0345, ginsenoside-$Rb_1$, torilin and loganin were identified at 10.85 mg/g, 0.128 mg/g and 3.92 mg/g respectively.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.233-244
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 2018

In today's society, where people look younger than their chronological age due to improvements in the quality of life, there is a gaining interest in anti-aging and how people compare to those in the same age group. We evaluated the wrinkle index, which is the most important attribute amongst skin parameters, to evaluate external age (wrinkle age). The wrinkles of the whole face were scored by divided 8 areas (forehead, glabella, nasal root, upper eyelid, lower eyelid, crow's feet, nasolabial groove and perioral skin) and analyzed the correlation between chronological age and skin parameters. 206 subjects (Korean female, n = 105 and Mongolians female, n = 101) were enrolled. Subjects were divided into four groups by ages: 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s. Wrinkle scores of 8 areas were evaluated and developed a calculation formula based on the wrinkle scores. Skin characteristic parameters were measured about skin elasticity, pore, wrinkle, sebum secretion. There was no difference between the calculated ages and the chronological ages in Korean women. On the other hand, Mongolian looked older than chronological age by 9 years. The correlation between the facial wrinkle ages and skin physiology parameters was presented in the order of skin elasticity > pore or crow's feet > skin tone > sebum secretion in both countries. Skin elasticity represented the most related parameter with the facial wrinkle ages. This study identified the skin wrinkle patterns of Korean and Mongolian women and the wrinkle age calculation formula developed from this study can be used as a tool for calculating the facial wrinkle ages in cosmetic studies.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1285-1297
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• 2020

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.86-92
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• 2007

This study was carried out to develop health & functional food by using Korean red ginseng for prevention of skin wrinkles. Effects of Korean red ginseng on the collagen biosynthesis and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) activity in human dermal fibroblast were investigated. Crude saponin contents of Korean red ginseng water extract (WE), Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts (EE) and Korean Red ginseng purified extracts (PE) were 72 mg/g, 107 mg/g and 220 mg/g, respectively. We incubated human fibroblast cell with Korean red ginseng component by addition of l ${\mu}g/ml$, 5 ${\mu}g/ml$, 10 ${\mu}g/ml$. Amount of collagen biosynthesis was 1.86 ng/ml in control sample and 2.85 ng/ml, 2.05 ng/ml and 2.58 ng/ml in retinoic acid, EE and PE respectively. Furthermore, $ginsenoside-Rg_1$ and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ were shown 2.01 ng/ml and 3.07 ng/ml. MMP-l activities of EE, PE, $ginsenoside-Rg_1$ and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ were decreased to 92%, 94%, 91% and 78% respectively as compared with control. Cell proliferation were showed 84-96% in the Korean red ginseng components. The antioxidative SOD activities of the Korean red ginseng components were showed 28-69%, however it was lower than that of Vitamin C. From this results, we conclude that Korean red ginseng have a anti-wrinkle effect and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ may be considered as a more effective component.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.251-262
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• 2007

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Aspalathus linearis extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract ($11.50\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($8.47\;{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($4.76\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Aspalathus linearis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were ethylacetate fraction ($OSC_{50},\;4.58\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($2.20\;{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % ethanol extract ($1.09\;{\mu}g/mL$). 50 % Ethanol extract showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Aspalathus linearis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly 50 % ethanol extract exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 272.00 min at $50\;{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Aspalathus linearis extracts, showed 3 bands in TLC and 3 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm). Three components were identified as luteolin (composition ratio, 18.24 %), quercetin (58.79), and kaempferol (22.97). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Aspalathus linearis extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 9 peaks, which were identified as isoorientin (composition ratio, 14.71 %), orientin (28.84 %), vitexin (5.63 %), rutin and isovitexin (12.73 %), hyperoside (9.24 %), isoquercitrin (5.40 %), luteolin (1.48 %), quercetin (17.61 %) and kaempferol (4.59 %) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase ($IC_{50},\;9.08\;{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Aspalathus linearis extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.