• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.28-42
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• 2011

Philp Lim, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu are the American fashion designers as descendants of Chinese immigrants. They had the honor of being given the Swarovski Awards- new premier fashion designer- from CFDA(Council of Fashion Designers of America). The purpose of this study were to investigate the characteristics of their collection, and offered the informations for Korean designers entering the American market. This research categorized characteristics of these designers'- whole characteristics and the characteristics of details such as formal characteristics, optimistic characteristics, tactile characteristics-, and fashion styles from the S/S season of 2009 to the F/W season of 2010 were analyzed. These young and male designers being received attention as a star, didn't make creative art pieces. But they made pragmatic, commercial, and con-temporary works in whole characteristics and succeeded in their fashion business like other American designers. On the other hand they oriented high fashion clearly in terms of the detail characteristics - their own accent color, tiny change in variety, unique material, delicate ornaments. Therefore Lim created chic and stylish, Wang made a sporty street style, Wu made a luxury style with mannish and casual through work characteristics suitable for their costumer.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.457-470
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• 1992

Several scholars have discussed the relationship between fine art and fashion in meaning and expression. They have established that fashion and fine art are different branches from the same root, the Zeitgeist (time spirit), and that the Zeitgeist is materialized by various expres-sion techniques. The objective of this paper is to discuss how designers' interpretation of the Zeitgeist is expressed in their work, focusing on the 60's American society and designer Rudi Gernreich. The 60's were the period with revolutionary changes both in society itself and clothing. Rudi is the representative of the 60's designers who is called the most avant-garde and American household designer at the same time. Despite his prominent status as an avant-garde designer and social commentator, however, he has not been discussed in depth in the Korean clothing society. The consistent theme of his work was young and free spirit, and women's liberation which reflected the time he lived in. His successful interpretation of the Zeitgeist of the 60's made him establish the American-look, simple and free to move.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.52-75
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.749-757
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of Latin American style expressed in modern fashion. Latin American fashion has been overlooked the influences, scope and diversity of dress within this world culture region. So, this study aim to unravel the history and significance of Latin American fashion. As for the research methodology, to classify types of the Latin American fashion style theoretical study and content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. In this study, the term of Latin American fashion style refers to the dress of common characteristics involving Latin American culture. To inquire into the characteristics of the types, various cases has been searched through books, internet, and designer's collections. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. The major types of Latin American fashion style are Indio-ethnic style, tropical-exotic style, and latin-romantic style. First, Indio-ethnic style has been involving traditional costumes and patterns which are originated in ancient Mexico and Peru. Second, tropical-exotic style has been involving bright color, tropical fruit and African flower pattern, various textures, and relaxed silhouette which are inspired by free and easy culture in Brazil and the Caribbean. Third, latin-romantic style has been involving the mix of Latin American tradition and romantic detail such as see-through material, lace, ruffle, spanish flower motif. In conclusion, Latin American style on contemporary fashion is based on interest to cannibalize folk theme, technique, icons and exotic others.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.135-144
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• 2008

The reason that we are familiar with fashion from the 1950s is because of the work such as New Look done by a french fashion designer, Christian Dior who had taken on an almost mythical significance by his name. Moreover, in the sense of popularity, the appearance of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, two typical Hollywood actresses who each has directly-opposed image, is the symbol of youthful America of the 1950s and represents the remarkable start of the American fashion. Still, these days designers and mass medias recall the fashion from the 50s remaking and parodying it to suit public's taste. Being due to the World War II, Europe suffered not only the loss of its national tradition and reputation but also got a fatal blow politically and economically. On the other hand, the United States of America occupied a primary position in the world and outstandingly became the most powerful country. The American fashion of the 1950s represents youth and newness and rejects outdated and outmoded style. In this period, appears the indication which announces previously the youth culture. Poodle skirt is the fashion item that acquired popularity among young american women and girls in the late 1950s. In effect, it is the fashion as American as apple pie. A costly A-line skirt had been transformed into a cheap felt skirt. Instead of a real poodle dog which was carried by French women like an accessory, they embroidered a poodle dog on the lower edge of their skirt. As deriding the snobbish gait, they swayed themselves frantically to the rhythm of Rock n' Roll which swept those days. This was an attitude of young Americans against the existing trend of Europe. Poodle skirt showed the free spirit and intention of young people unbound to custom and established vogue. In addition, in the aspect of comprising the American spirit of independent, pioneer, and subjective American people, it goes beyond the bounds of common concept of fad. Poodle skirt is an unique symbol of the 1950s' American fashion which prognosticates the advent of the United States and the success in modern fashion world which was changing after 1950s.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.167-180
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• 2007

This study analyzes the Asian, African and Latin American cultural hybrids in modem fashion, and offers a direction for desirable cultural hybrids in modem fashion. First, the cultural hybrids have been considered in two aspect: global hybrids and structural hybrids. Second, the trends of Asian, African and Latin American cultural hybrids have been interpreted differently depending on the cultural backgrounds of each area. However, the cultural hybrid representing the change of tradition in Asia, Africa and Latin America is a common trend, and is used to describe the social changes. Third, this study examines the global hybrid trend in modem fashion based on the hybrid trend of Asian, African and Latin American culture found in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W. Until recently, the exotic images have been determined in the viewpoint of Western world, and utilization by the world-renowned designers in the four major collections plays the major role in converting the regional cultural elements into global ones. Fourth, this study also examines the structural hybrids in modem fashion based on the hybrid trend found in Asian, African and Latin American designer collections between 2000 S/S and 2005 F/W. The works which are connected to the world trend, but are also rooted from the cultural and regional traditions demonstrate the globalization of the Asian, African and Latin American fashion. Fashion is a messenger of a culture, and its importance as a symbol of a cultural trend is growing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.635-654
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• 2012

This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.