• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.103-111
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of cotton and silk/rayon fabrics dyed with Saururus chinensis extract against antibiotic-resistant strains. The concentration of the concentrated dye in the Saururus chinensis extracts was 1.1% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:10 at 30-70℃. The mordanting method was a post mordanting method. The concentration of Al2(SO4)3, CuSO4 5H2O and FeSO4 and7H2O mordant was 5% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:40. In order to assess the antimicrobial activity of naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by incubating it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) including Oxacillin (2㎍/ml) and Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml) and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA.) The investigation of the reduction of the rate of antibiotic-resistant strains to dyed cotton fabrics and silk/rayon fabrics revealed that Cu mordanting fabric has the highest antimicrobial effects, with the rate of 99.7%, and Fe mordanting fabric has the lowest, with 77.7%. Non-mordant cotton fabrics also show a high reduction rate of strains (94.6%). In the case of dyed silk/rayon fabrics, it indicates a high reduction in the rate of strains in all fabrics with non-mordant treatment (94.2%), Al mordanting (99.6%), and Cu and Fe mordanting(99.9%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.9
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.248-254
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• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.299-307
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• 2016

In order to clarify the availability of heat treatment for catechu dyeing, effect of color developing by heating process on cotton fabrics dyed with catechu extract was investigated. Dyed fabrics were heated various time(min) at $150^{\circ}C$. The cases of non-mordanting and mordanting were compared, and examined the effect of sodium acetate as an agent to promote the color developing to fabrics. Experiments with after-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using catechu. K/S values of dyed fabrics with Al, Cu, Fe mordant were higher than the case of no mordant. The fabric by Cu mordanting showed 3 times to the case of no mordant. Fabrics dyed with catechu by mordanting lowered $L^*$ value while there was little change in $a^*$, $b^*$ value as the heating process progressed. Therefore, K/S values were increased due to heating process. The effects of adding sodium acetate in dyeing bath on dyed fabrics were shown higher K/S values, and the $L^*$ values were lower than those without sodium acetate according to heating time increase. The result show sodium acetate had a promoting effect on the color developing to the fabrics by heating process, it was very effective.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.