• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.970-980
• /
• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제42권6호
• /
• pp.924-942
• /
• 2018

This study is to understand the symbolism and meaning of Yeomim in Korean traditional clothing. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, there are three types of Yeomim for Korean clothing. Various methods of Yeomim use different materials for tying clothes such as straps and buttons. Second, when we investigate how Yeomim of Korean clothing has evolved, left and right type of Yeomim had coexisted in ancient times and Dae had been used mainly to tie clothes. The Yeomim method has used various materials since the Goryeo Dynasty. During the Joseon Dynasty, right type Yeomim dominated with majority using Goreum. Third, Hanbok has consistently evolved with a unique bonding style that uses rectangular strap for Yeomim, from the ancient times. The particular Yeomim method of twisting a rectangular strap represents the circularity of space. In addition, Yeomim with a strap is characterized by the beauty of how its form can be highly flexible depending on the human body or location of Yeomim, which corresponds to an unbalanced and asymmetrical natural beauty unique to Korea.

• 복식
• /
• 제6권
• /
• pp.145-160
• /
• 1982

Wearing a clothes in human living is very rightful and reasonable things. And it's also the necessaries of living. So now, I want look around about origin of clothes from the prehistorical age, how they start and why they need to wear a clothes. As human culture is unknown origin, human clothes origin is also unknown origin, too. So many different people made unlike story about that, and it is very difficult to say correct birth of clothes. It must be reflection by a time, by a place, by a mankind, until this days, the history of human progress is $2,000,000{\sim}3,000,000$ years. And from after the "Old Adam" man understand what is shame and disgrace, so that made them cover of their private parts, also it is a motive of human clothes. Since after pass a long time, the earth has many changes as it were weather, and for take care of human body from cold, people start make clothes and it's a second object of wearing a clothes. And third object of wearing clothes is after opportunity of development human culture, people desire for an aesthetic sence and for full-fill that feeling they start make a beautiful clothes with accessories and it is motive and a purpose of a human start wear a clothes. So I can say, for origin birth of clothes is 1. Protect of human body. 1) be adapted for different weather and different circumstance. 2) take care self from outside injurg. 2. Decorate for aesthetic sence. 1) Theory of Amulets. 2) Theory of symbolism. 3) Theory of Sex attraction. 4) Aesthetic Theory. 5) Theory of chastity. 6) Multi-theory And material for clothes they made from natural wilds like leaves, fur, skin of wood. skin of fishes and feather etc. But after develop of human knowledge people invent fiber, and use a knitted goods and woven stuff also first of all. They start use those kind that they just cover of their private parts as a belt and astring with leaves and a beast skins. But until this days it's taken big development with human knowledge and most important influence of develop was weather. So modern clothes for present days, must care with. physicology, preservation of health, living activity, dressing, morals, and etiquette etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.787-799
• /
• 2016

This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining fashion style of fashion journalist Anna Wintour. Fashion journalists are specialists who work at fashion media. Especially, Anna Wintour is one of the most famous fashion journalist in the world and fashion icon, who has been editor-in chief of Vogue USA since 1988. For this study, Anna Witour's photograph was collected from 2010 to 2015 on web-sites. After collecting images, it analysed with 4criterions which were silhouette, color, fabric(pattern and texture) and hair style(and accessories) following advance researches analysis about fashion style. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, symbolism revealed that could express her identity through utilizing steady items such as blond bob hair, Chanel bold sunglasses, short round neckless and Manolo Blahnik's low-heeled slingback nude sandals. Especially, she gave consistency to her fashion style with fixed hair style and accessories which are similar in shape. Second, femininity, that reveal as an internal characteristic such as sensitivity and as an external characteristic like fluidity. Anna Wintour expressed femininity with elegant curvy silhouette, various of color and flower pattern. Particularly, she emphasized nature women's body shape with princess silhouette, slim silhouette. Third, analysis result indicated characteristic of authority with oversize silhouette, wide lapel details and glamorous genuine fur items. Furthermore, some of her fur items looked overwhelming which dyed in artificial color or printed with leopard pattern. These powerful items contained immanent meanings that are power and position which could express a role as an editor-in chief of Vogue USA.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제19권7호
• /
• pp.220-233
• /
• 2019

올라퍼 엘리아슨은 <날씨 프로젝트>(2003)을 통해 설치라는 낯선 장르를 대중의 의식에 깊이 각인시켰다. 그 동안 엘리아슨의 작업에 대해서는 그 동안 다양한 각도에서 접근이 이루어져왔다. 여기서는 그 다양한 해석의 시도들을 크게 신체미학 정치미학 기술미학적 접근의 세 유형으로 분류한 후, 비판적 검토를 통해 그 각각에 담긴 합리적 핵심들을 하나로 종합하게 될 것이다. 하지만 이 과정에서 기존의 해석들에는 엘리아슨을 비롯해 최근 설치예술가들이 빈번히 사용하는 '빛'의 효과에 대한 언급이 거의 등장하지 않는다는 사실이 드러난다. 그것은 현재 우리가 사용하는 미학에 빛의 분위기 효과를 기술하는 데에 적합한 개념도구가 존재하지 않기 때문이다. 이 논문에서는 엘리아슨의 작업을 제대로 이해하는 데에는 이 빛의 효과에 대한 분석이 필수적이며, 그 분석에 필요한 이론의 결핍을 보충하기 위해 중세의 신학적 광학이 다시 참조할 필요가 있음을 강조하게 될 것이다. 중세의 '빛의 미학'은 설치미술을 넘어 디지털시대의 시각성 일반의 특징을 규명하는 데에도 도움이 될 수 있다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.26-33
• /
• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권2호
• /
• pp.59-80
• /
• 2000

In February 1947, Christian Dior startled the world with his spring collection. He transformed the unflattering square shouldered outline of women's wartime fashion overnight. It was not only fashion that made a pivotal point for opulence and elegance, The style of architecture, furniture, glass, and silverware also made a radical change. The new style emerged after war called " organic modernism'. This study is to define the visual characteristics of fashion, architecture, furniture and craft after World War II and examine the social factors and aesthetics that generated a new style. The common asthetic characteristics are freedom, abstraction of symbolic from, asymmetry, and exaggeration of form. The social factors, values and aesthetics are economic reconstruction and renaissance of design , technical development and new materials, fredom and optimistic view after the holocaust of war, and organic aesthetics and humanism.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제24권2호
• /
• pp.7-16
• /
• 2015

This article deals with a proportional analysis of Cologne Cathedral with regard to the medieval tradition of geometry and figurate numbers that were commonly used in the medieval period. It first outlines symbolic and geometric notions of the geometry and numbers during the medieval period, and then, interprets the proportional design of the plan and section of the cathedral in analogy with the notion. It concludes that the proportional design of the cathedral was not quite arbitrary but carefully designed for the systematic and symbolic quality of the medieval aesthetic tradition.

• 복식
• /
• 제52권7호
• /
• pp.155-166
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• 한국전산구조공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국전산구조공학회 2010년도 정기 학술대회
• /
• pp.166-169
• /
• 2010

In early design stages structural form finding is of importance. Theses days the structural forms are forced to satisfy not only engineering criteria but also aesthetic concerns including symbolism. Geometric approach seems to provide many possibilities in generating creative forms as design alternatives for bridge structures. However, the increase in possibilities of geometric application didn't gather much attention from bridge designers who are focusing mainly on structural aspects. Prior to adopting the geometric approach, it is needed to review bridge structures in terms of geometric vocabulary. This study has proposed how to generate geometric forms of bridge structures in terms of geometric computing concepts.