• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

This paper reports on a study of the morphological design trends and characteristics of vests in contemporary fashion for women. A review of the relevant literature was conducted, and visual images found in various collections displayed in local and foreign papers and on internet web sites over the period 2001 to 2009 were analysed. The analysis of the vest designs showed that 78% had no collar, 41.8% were waist-length, 70.5% used general fabrics of various colors and patterns, 98.2% had a single fastening system, 69.8% used buttons for fastening, and 67.4% were intended to be worn as outwear over inner wear items such as a shirt or blouse. The trends in vest design were characterized by the expression of an androgynous image, by creative diversity and by an escape from traditional forms.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.90-98
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• 2006

일반적으로 동물성 섬유(견, 모)는 단백질 섬유로서 매염제를 쓰지 않고도 염색이 잘되는 편이지만, 식물성 섬유인 면, 마 등은 섬유소이므로 색소의 흡착이 불량하여 염색성이 우수한 염색 보조제로 전처리 한 다음, 주매염제를 처리해야 좋은 결과를 얻을 수 있다. 식물성 섬유의 일종인 인피섬유로 이루어진 한지의 천연염색 효과 향상을 위해 염색 보조제로 콩즙, 탈지분유 및 키토산을 한지에 전처리를 한 다음, 황벽나무 수피, 찔레나무 지엽, 꼭두서니 및 자초 뿌리로부터 염료를 추출하고 $Al_2(SO_4)_3$와 $Fe(OH)(CH_3COO)_2$를 매염제로 사용하여 염색한 한지의 염색특성과 견뢰도를 분석하였다. 천연염색 한지의 색상 및 색차 분석결과 염색 보조제를 사용한 것이 모든 염료에서 무처리 시료보다 염색이 양호하였으며, 사용한 염색 보조제 중에서는 콩즙으로 전처리한 시료가 가장 우수한 염색 효과를 나타내었다. 촉진노화 시험을 통한 천연염색 한지의 견뢰도를 분석한 결과 자초가 가장 불량한 것으로 나타났으며, 꼭두서니가 비교적 우수한 것으로 나타났다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

동아대학교박물관에 소장된 <초충도수병(草蟲圖繡屛)>(이하 <수병>)은 보물 제595호로 지정되어 있으며 초충도 회화작품보다 더 정교하고 섬세한 사실적 표현과 다채한 입체적 구성으로 미술사 분야에서 그 가치가 높이 평가되어 왔다. 그러나 <수병>이 자수 작품임에도 불구하고 현재까지 섬유공예적 측면에서의 분석과 연구는 이루어지지 않았다. 본고에서는 <수병>의 바탕직물, 자수색사, 자수기법 등을 과학적 기기를 사용하여 조사 분석함으로써 <수병>의 문양소재와 섬유공예적 특징 및 <수병>이 섬유공예사에서 갖는 가치를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, <수병>은 8폭 병풍으로 이루어져 있으며 소재와 구도는 일반적인 초충도 회화작품과 유사하다. 각 폭의 주제문양은 제1폭에서부터 순서대로 오이, 맨드라미, 원추리, 여주, 패랭이, 수박, 가지, 들국화로 이루어져 있다. <수병>의 문양 중 여주는 현전하는 초충도 회화작품에서는 볼 수 없는 특별한 소재이다. 제8폭은 곤충, 파충류 등의 문양이 없이 들국화만 단독으로 시문하여 초충도의 전형적인 형식과 차별이 있다. <수병>의 직물은 지금까지 장식용 자수에서는 볼 수 없었던 검은색을 사용하여 다채한 색사를 강조하여 극대로 표현하고자 했음을 알 수 있다. 바탕직물은 5매 공단[무문단(無紋緞)]을 사용하였다. 자수사는 극히 미약하게 꼬임을 준 반푼사를 사용하였으며 꼬임의 방향은 우연이다. 한 가지 색의 단사를 사용하기도 하고 때로는 두 가지 색을 병사로 사용하거나 합연사한 혼합색을 사용하여 입체적으로 표현하였다. 색상은 열화되고 퇴색이 심하여 원래의 색은 알 수 없지만 가장 많이 사용된 색은 황색계열에서 녹색계열의 색이며 청색, 갈색, 자색 등이 비교적 잘 남아있다. 원추리, 패랭이, 딸기 등의 색은 현재 적황색으로 남아 있는데 초충도와 비교해 볼 때 원래는 주황색 또는 홍색이었을 것으로 추정된다. 자수의 기법은 대부분 표면평수를 사용하여 면을 채우고 있다. 이를 통해 색사의 낭비를 줄이고자 했던 옛 여인들의 알뜰한 지혜가 엿보인다. 평수는 면을 장식하는 비교적 간단한 자수법이지만 색사를 다양화하고 면을 분할하여, 수직, 수평, 사선평수를 배합하고 때로는 자릿수와 같이 서로 맞물리게 자수하여 다양한 질감과 양감을 표현하였다. 곤충의 몸통은 가장자리수와 이음수, 평수를 혼합하여 입체적으로 표현하고 있으며, 특히 가장자리수의 활용이 주목된다. 그 외 이음수로 잎맥 등을 입체감 있게 나타내고, 제7폭의 쇠뜨기는 표면솔잎수를 층층이 자수하여 사실적으로 표현하였다. 패랭이, 딸기, 오이 등에는 평수 위에 장식수를 더하여 세세한 묘사를 더했다. <수병>은 회화사, 문화사적으로도 가치가 크지만 한국 자수공예사에 있어서도 우수한 한국적 자수기법과 색채를 사용하여 신사임당 초충도의 모습을 가장 잘 표현하고 있는 점에서 큰 중요성을 지닌다고 할 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is confirming the design characteristics and brand strategies of Ralph Lauren's products through the advertising pictures on internet website. Methods of this study are the analysis of his brand growth process, concept strategy and designs by web promotion sites. Also this study defined his brand character and fashion mind. The Results are as follows. 1) Ralph Lauren's concept strategies are 1. Convert british type into American style 2. Presentation an American life style 3. Marketing strategy using life style and IT business. 2) Ralph Lauren's designs characters are 1. Rich and simple style by preppy look 2. Traditional wear of noble taste 3. Western style of American reclamation period 4. Using of comfortable material 5. Unique colors which are simbolic. Today, his classic and preppy designs all draw upon an image of old word wealth and luxury and he pioneered the concept of clothes as part of a lifestyle environment.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2014

포름알데히드는 전시 수장 공간에서 농도와 발생빈도가 높아 전통직물(천연염색)에 대한 손상 개연성이 있다. 본 연구는 견, 면, 모시, 삼베의 무염색, 천연염색(적색, 황색, 청색, 흑색) 시편을 대상으로 포름알데히드 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm 농도에서의 손상, 손상농도 500ppm에서 온습도 조건에 따른 손상과 열화상태에서의 손상을 광학적, 화학적, 물리적 측정방법으로 평가하였다. 이 결과, 포름알데히드 농도 500ppm에서 일부 직물의 색차, 변퇴색등급, 포름산이온 농도, pH가 변화하였으며, 고온 고습조건($30^{\circ}C$, 80%), 고습조건($25^{\circ}C$, 80%)에서는 색차, 변퇴색등급, 포름산이온 농도가 2배 가중되었다. 그러나, 열화직물은 열화정도, 열화 생성물질로 인해 포름알데히드에 의한 손상변화가 미미하였다. 이를 통해 포름알데히드에 의한 전통직물의 손상, 손상농도, 손상가중 조건, 열화상태에서의 손상을 확인하였으며, 포름알데히드는 적색직물의 황변, 열화직물의 황변 탈색, 포름산은 전체직물의 탈색에 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.692-702
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to explore global consumer behavior with fashion products, Korean fashion products, and Korean traditional fashion products (i.e., Han-Bok). Clothing selection criteria for fashion products and Korean fashion products were included as major constructs far the comparison among global consumers based on their nationality. Other consumer behavior variables were shopping place, buying frequency, purchase experience/plan, preferred brand, purchase items, information source, purchasing usage, and the product evaluation of Hanbok. A convenience sample of 236 global consumers was selected for this study. A questionnaire was pilot tested, and the revised questionnaire was used for the interview survey. Descriptive statistics and ANOVA were used for data analysis. Various nationality were existed such as Europe, North America, Japan, China, South East Asia. The results indicated that the most important criteria for fashion buying were design, fit, and size in order. Fit, size, and color item from buying criteria were significantly different among global consumers by nationality. Country of origin was found as less important factor among global consumers. Department store was most favorable shopping place, and once a month is the most mentioned category in buying frequency. Preferred brands were Levi's, Polo, Gucci, and Prada, etc. Secondly, regarding the evaluation of Korean fashion products, textile quality was highly evaluated. Significant difference except design/style category were existed among global consumers by nationality. Thirdly, regarding the evaluation of Hanbok, the product evaluation of Hanbok highly represented as special event clothing, unique image, beautiful details and oriental beauty in order. Significant difference in good quality of textiles, oriental beauty, coordination with good colors and fabrics, beautiful details and unique style and design were existed among global consumers by nationality. Managerial implications were discussed.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.35-55
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to get some pieces of prior information to eventually develop competitive swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images. The study has been accomplished in following steps. First, as theoretical research, the history of swimming suit design and the requirements in designing competitive swimming suits were studied. Second, as practical research, at first, the trend of the competitive swimming suit designs in the national swimming suit market was examined. And then. the questionnaire surveys of both professional and amateur swimmers about their design preferences with purchasing and fabric-related tendencies were conducted for understanding professionals' characters more exactly. This data were analyzed through cross-analysis and multi-response analysis and x 2 was used. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First, athletes' preferential design tendency for the swimming suit designs were examined in the aspects of style, color, pattern, logo, and accessary. In style, female athletes preferred an athletic one-piece style and male ones preferred a brief style. In color. neutral, mostly black was preferred most and cold color group like dark blue and navy blue next, regardless of sex. In addition, they preferred similar color coordination. In pattern, though solid fabrics were mostly preferred in both sexes, especially Taeguk motive were considered the most appropriate pattern to show Korean image. Besides, logo was considered importantly, and swimming caps and goggles of accessaries were generally used. Second, athletes' swimming suit purchasing tendency was as a following. the number of swimming suits possessed was more than 4 pieces. the durable period was less than 3 months. and the most important point considered in purchasing was an easy fitting for men and a design with an easy fitting for women. And most of swimming athletes preferred foreign products than domestic ones, which was attributed to excellent quality, easy fitting, and good design. and so on. Third, in fabric-related tendency, food touch, easy fitting. and opaqueness were considered importantly. and durability to chlorine, elasticity, color fastness, easy draining, lightness, and so on were demanded forward.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2012

This study aims to collect Minhwa, or folk painting, particularly the Lotus Flower Painting, to analyze its formative characteristics and related story, and to develop cultural fashion products by utilizing Korean traditional culture and modern flavor based on the results. Lotus flowers grow from mud, but are unstained, and they bloom beautiful flowers. Thus, they symbolize Gunja, a true gentleman who is very learned and proper in behavior. In Buddhism, lotus flowers are divine flowers that have the meaning of the creation of life and the eternal cycle of birth, death and rebirth. Lotus flowers also represent the love between man and woman as well as conjugal harmony and love. Lotus flower painting includes the paintings of the lotus flower alone as well as the paintings of the lotus flower with ducks, white heron, kingfisher, fish, butterfly, crab, or tortoise. Colors that are mostly used in lotus flower paintings is the compatible combination of red and blue (green). Based on these findings, fashion products such as bag accessories, sitting cushions, and kitchen utensils are developed using various designs such as realistically drawn lotus flower, schematized lotus flower, the lotus flower alone, or the lotus flower with kingfisher, crab, or dragonfly, that emphasizing the compatible color combination of red and blue.

• 천문학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.71-81
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• 1997

We have studied the IR properties of molecular clouds in the region of the supershell GS234-02 using IRAS and COBE data. The mean values of dust color temperature and optical depth at $240{\mu}m$ are derived to be $15.4\pm1.5K\; and\;9.0\pm5.7\times10^{-4}$, respectively, which agree well with those determined by Sodroski et al.(1994) for the outer Galaxy. Mean IRAS colors, $R_{12}/100= 0.074,\; R_{25}/100= 0.052,\; R_{60/100}= 0.219$, indicate that the abundance of PAHs is enhanced but other particles are nearly the same as those of the solar neighborhood. We found the anticorrelation between $R_{100/140}\;and\;R_{140/240}$. It cannot be explained by the thermal emission of traditional big grains. The anticorrelation implies that, at high ISRF, $T_{100/140}$ underestimates the equilibrium temperature, while $T_{140/240}$ overestimates it and, at low ISRF, vice versa. Therefore we propose to use the intensity ratio, $R_{100/240}$ as a dust thermometer.